I am looking to get a vintage Omega. Ideally $500 max but can go a tad higher for an excellent piece. I have been looking on eBay but get so confused on what I should be looking for. I want it to be all original but not sure how to tell. I want something all silver too as I don't care for gold. I like the sub second hand too but not a huge deal to find that. So what should I be looking for with that specific criteria?

 

I like the looks of this one...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/1956-Vintage-...3A121918a21580a786c3546aaefffe7c6d%7Ciid%3A20Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network

 

Welcome,

Mmm i not the one to comment but I thing there significantly better deals to be had. There are two threads I'd recommend.

Brb with the links

Not all Omega but gives you and idea.
https://omegaforums.net/index.php?threads/44233/

Not all in price range.
https://omegaforums.net/index.php?threads/1790/


Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

 

Have you considered looking through the forum's for sale thread? You ought to have a much better comfort level there. Also, a good rule is to first 'buy the seller'.
Good luck

 

You can find a watch in this condition for around half of the price.

I'd recommend looking for a 1950s-1960s Seamaster. There are tons of variations, and great deals to be had at under $500.
Ebay is a good place to look, but make sure to post here before you buy!

 

It's a bit of a dog and much too expensive.
Hands are crap, the case looks like it had a fight with a chisel.
Crown is not seated properly, why?
No movement shot so taking a gamble there as well.
It is also a very small watch (32mm dia), may suit a lady but even a guy with thin wrists will find it hard to wear this.

Better watches can be found for that money.

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking to learn as much as I can.

 

And it's not a bumper if it houses a 471.

 

I'm also really digging the 1920s Hamiltons but know nothing about those either.

 

perhaps you can do more research on what you like best and narrow it down to a specific age (eg 50's, 60's, etc) or line (Seamaster, constellation, etc) and it would be easier to look for what you want once you know the specifics. From there you can decide if you want to maintain the budget or increase it to get those that you want.

 

There are three steps to owning a vintage Omega: deciding you like them, researching them, and buying the type you like best. The classic mistake most people make (myself included) is to skim over or entirely skip Step Two. Maybe one in twenty who do that get lucky. The others buy a watch and then gradually realise it's not what they wanted after all.

Some people aren't that bothered about what they buy as long as it's nice and shiny and they can get it instantly. Those people are the lawful prey of dealers who specialise in overpriced redials, frankenwatches, cases buffed to hell, etc. They will mostly live in blissful ignorance of what garbage they bought, unless they come on here and ask about their new watch. That can be an extremely painful experience, especially if they went for something expensive like a vintage Speedmaster. The best way to prevent that happening is to read as much as you can about the model(s) that appeal to you. This forum is a good place to start.

 

Thanks Edward. I do like the speedmaster but doesn't look like those can be had in the $500 range. I saw a seamaster 30 on here yesterday that was awesome looking so I think I'm leaning that way. The constellations look cool but I don't like that crosshair.

 

Not all constellations have cross hairs (although it's often seen as a desirable bonus)
But I'm afraid you won't find a nice one for $500 unless you're very lucky

 

And usually the ones that do go for under $500 are either a certain type that most collectors look over, or are not the greatest condition wise.

It is also nigh on impossible to get a Speedy for less than $1500USD these days (again, unless you're really lucky or it's an automatic/MKII.)

As for vintage Seamasters, the manual wind versions can be slightly cheaper than their automatic counterparts, and can be had for a relatively modest price that will suit your budget. Make sure to do your own research on any watch, even if you are purely buying for your own wearing pleasure!

 

There was a thread here where someone posted a mint SM 30 saying they'd bought it for $300, was that it? If so it's a really nice watch and I don't doubt the word of the poster, but you would be lucky to get such a good example at that price. Easily $500 is more like it IMO.

 

I purchased my Seamaster 30 for $350 from the forums earlier in the year after some initial small brand collecting.



While I had an older 40s Omega at the time, the 30 was a good size and it was a trigger for me to start investing in some tools and parts. A new crystal, crown and strap can do wonders for a watch, and will usually increase the value if fitted properly.



Bear in mind too that unless stated, watches will not have been serviced recently by a professional watchmaker so they may be running on old (or no) oils, dirt inside the movement, worn parts etc...you will need to factor in that cost too on top of your initial purchase price!

 

Yeah dude that looks good!

I don't know what the difference is between a regular seamaster and the 30 though. Is the 30 considered less valuable or collectible?

 

The Seamaster 30 has a 30 series caliber.

 

There's another thread with almost the exact same question. @gatorcpa put it best in saying:

Seamaster 30s are so termed as they utilise a 30mm movement. Early ones tend to have a Cal 286, which was derived from the workhorse 30SC movement, made from the 40s onwards. The 286 was made from 1963-66 (information courtesy of Dr. Ranfft.)

Other models may utilise smaller, same or larger movements, have varied dials, sub or sweep seconds, bumper/rotor automatic movements, day/date functions, case types and sizes - lots of different options. It all depends on what you like!

 

Geez this is hard! I had no idea there was so many variables. Thanks for the help.