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New 2025 38mm Railmaster

tritto
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M Mam
First when I saw the picture I was kinda disappointed. Im my mind I was picturing the new Railmaster more toolish more like the flight qualified. It seems that it is not the case.
Now I start to like it . Maybe the vintage / tool vibe path wasn't the best approach for this model.

DIV DIV
I’m actually glad it turned out like that because for me, it’s a hard pass. As some of you might know, I’m a huge fan of the Railmaster and Ranchero models and have featured them in various videos on my little YT channel (Favorite Things).
I don’t care for the gradient dials because with my aging eyes, legibility is paramount. I was never able to embrace this handset either and the lack of a 36mm option puts the nail in the coffin. I do find the sub-seconds version interesting as it and the 2nd generation XXL version with it are nods to the Ranchero 2990.
I'll stick to these instead....

20250510_064636.webp IMG_20240205_075400.webp
Hey @DIV, what bracelet do you have your ranchero on?
 
DIV
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tritto tritto
Hey @DIV, what bracelet do you have your ranchero on?
So as not to sidetrack this thread, I’m sending you a message…
 
Jakeys
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Annapolis Annapolis
Different strokes: I prefer the actual release to these mockups. (Which is not to impugn the creator’s stunning mockup skills!!!)

You have deeply offended me and my family. 😜

Annapolis Annapolis
I’d see a release like the mockup as too close to the Rolex Explorer I. The actual releases strike me as more aesthetically innovative (albeit the brown one has some Hamilton vibes, but in a good way).

One can honor the past without imitating it.

Totally fair, but speaks to the difference with what I (and many others) want out of this model, versus what Omega wants to offer. I like the mockups better exactly because they are conservative. I want a conservative, no frills tool watch. Omega doesn't offer one currently, though of course they're doing just fine without one.

Annapolis Annapolis
And the 38mm case is to be celebrated, especially if it heralds the continuing death of the gigantic-watch fad.

Completely agree, 38 is a goldilocks size for such a simple design. I thought the gigantic watch fad has been dead for years though. By far the most sought after Railmaster of all time is a 36, it was just unfortunately released during the peak of that fad.

DaveK DaveK
Omega going with just Railmaster on the dial was a good call. The cleaner dial makes more sense in your wrist shots than their promo photos.

It does look clean, but I dislike that it doesn't align in design language with their other current modern watches. Hence my second mockup, it takes the dial text placement and details from the other two current professional "master" models, the SMP and the Speedy. Actually, I'm realising now I probably should have put "Professional" on the dial if it were hypothetically going to be given the same status.

The reason they've done it the way they have is because they're considering it as a heritage model, in line with the Seamaster 300's. It does align to their design language. Again it's just a fundamental mismatch in what I see the model as and what Omega sees it as.
 
A
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Torn if I should unload my Denim Railmaster on the gray. I was able to see both the brown dial & gray dial yesterday in the metal. I’m not jazzed on the polished parts of the case vs my version that’s all brushed. But something about the gray dial’s calling me…
 
DaveK
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A atebit
Torn if I should unload my Denim Railmaster on the gray. I was able to see both the brown dial & gray dial yesterday in the metal. I’m not jazzed on the polished parts of the case vs my version that’s all brushed. But something about the gray dial’s calling me…

Maybe wait a year and either buy the grey dial 2nd hand or buy a yet-to-be-released new dial colour. The resell on denim dial won’t drop much more in the interim, as it’s probably already due for a factory service. Maybe a mat black dial and a white dial will come in future releases. I think titanium should be offered too, but I know squat about what Omega might do.
 
A
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That’s good wisdom. I actually have a good offer on the denim at the moment, so I might pull a Woody Allen and take the money and run, hold out for the secondary market, or an AD that’s willing to deal. 😉
 
M
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In know! I've mentioned this in another thread: But 12.4 mm seems too thick for a 38mm luxury tool watch, especially if that, in any way, is down to the show pony case back.

Should be minimalist, unobtrusive and superbly engineered.
 
texasmade
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M Middlander
In know! I've mentioned this in another thread: But 12.4 mm seems too thick for a 38mm luxury tool watch, especially if that, in any way, is down to the show pony case back.
I agree. 12.4 isn't thick overall but it throws off the proportions on a 38mm. The 13.5mm on a 41mm looks better proportioned. The large diameter absorbs the thickness better than the smaller 38 does.
 
M
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Maybe it's down to the Co-Axial movement?

Because even Christopher Ward, for example, have a 38mm C60 Trident Pro diver that measures 38mm x 45mm x 11mm.
 
Annapolis
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M Middlander
Maybe it's down to the Co-Axial movement?

Because even Christopher Ward, for example, have a 38mm C60 Trident Pro diver that measures 38mm x 45mm x 11mm.


Nah, the DeVille Tresors are, like, 10mm thick, and they’re coaxial. It’s probably a water resistance issue, or just a part of their design. These are meant to be toolish and robust, not thin and dressy.
 
Annapolis
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(Though to complicate my own point, the DeVilles are manuals not automatics.)
 
M
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The C60 Trident Pro is a diver watch, water resistant to 300m.

An engineer will want a watch with a slim, unobtrusive, profile so that it doesn't catch on anything.
 
A
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If I have time today I’ll go back to the boutique (this time wearing my denim) and take some side by side pictures for comparison.
 
ErichPryde
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(Though to complicate my own point, the DeVilles are manuals not automatics.)

M Middlander
The C60 Trident Pro is a diver watch, water resistant to 300m.

An engineer will want a watch with a slim, unobtrusive, profile so that it doesn't catch on anything.

I know the Omega 8800 in the Seamaster 300 is around 4.6 mm thick, assuming that a cursory internet search is correct, the Salida movement in the C60 is exactly the same thickness.

"Omega's movements are too thick" is the equivalent of the story about frogs staying in water that's turned up slowly to a boil... at least with the new 88xx and 89xx.
Edited:
 
M
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Interesting stuff Erich.

I'm a fan of the brand. Fan of their history.

But I do think that they make at least some of their watches too thick. And this iteration of Railmaster could be more than it is. More Engineery. As it was 'back in the day'.

The BB58 and BB54 are under and well under 12mm. Even the latest 41mm Oyster Perpetual (I know its only 100mm water resistant) is 11.6mm.

Feel that Omega could (should?) try a little harder.
 
ErichPryde
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M Middlander
Interesting stuff Erich.

I'm a fan of the brand. Fan of their history.

But I do think that they make at least some of their watches too thick. And this iteration of Railmaster could be more than it is. More Engineery. As it was 'back in the day'.

The BB58 and BB54 are under and well under 12mm. Even the latest 41mm Oyster Perpetual (I know its only 100mm water resistant) is 11.6mm.

Feel that Omega could (should?) try a little harder.

I'm not arguing against some of their watches being too thick. even accounting for the slight dome to the crystal (which adds roughly 1 to 1.5mm thickness depending upon how domed it is), many of these watches could definitely come down some, especially in the AT line.

The takeaway from my statement should be that the thickness of the movement isn't the issue- it's Omega's design choice to build these thicker.

I definitely question: why is the current 41mm AT still over 13mm and not like at 12.8? it would still have great wrist presence at that thickness, and considering it's essentially a semi-formal watch, that would be more appropriate. Same thing with the railmaster- which is essentially was, conceptually, a semi-formal tool watch. Sure, the original was around 12.5mm thick- so rebooting it in the heritage line I could probably have bought the 12.4mm thickness. But, putting it in the AT line, why isn't it 12mm? That should be doable.

Right now I think that only the Speedmaster Pro "moonwatch" and Seamaster 300 heritage (and probably some of the deville line) are "approximately" where they need to be, and both could probably lose another couple tenths of a millimeter. And then you've got stuff like the current PO GMT, which- what is that, even?
 
M
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I took what you said in the way you intended, Erich. Sorry if I came across otherwise.

Although I steer away from thicker watches I hear what you’re saying about wrist presence. No right or wrong, simply a choice.

Much though I liked its dial and movement, my 40mm Co-Ax Railmaster was too bulky for me and got passed on to son. Replaced it with the 36mm variant which’ll hopefully be wrecked by the time they eventually take it off for me. 😁
 
ErichPryde
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M Middlander
I took what you said in the way you intended, Erich. Sorry if I came across otherwise.

Although I steer away from thicker watches I hear what you’re saying about wrist presence. No right or wrong, simply a choice.

Much though I liked its dial and movement, my 40mm Co-Ax Railmaster was too bulky for me and got passed on to son. Replaced it with the 36mm variant which’ll hopefully be wrecked by the time they eventually take it off for me. 😁

No apology required and no offense taken. it's definitely a topic worth discussing!
 
A
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Well, I took some pictures, but they didn’t really come out all that well.

1747968116217.webp 1747968166293.webp


The thickness/height of each watch are pretty close. I don’t think that the smaller case size of the new version significantly amplifies that though, at least to my eye.

Why do Omega Boutiques seem to always have the worst lighting?
 
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