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My First Luxury / Vintage-ish watch - What should I buy?

Ashi85
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Dear Aficionado,

I am new to to luxury / vintage watches. I want everything and can't commit to anything. I need your help. What do YOU think I should buy? Links or offers to watches for sale much appreciated 😀. If I buy what you suggest, you get a prize! 😉

-Budget: $6K - $15K USD
-Wrist size: 7.5" (19cm)
-35 years old, 1985 birth year.
-A birth year or vintage watch intrigues me.
-The idea of all original parts and original papers is preferred, but isn't necessary if collectible as-is.
-I tend to like chronos
-I tend to like black/blue/silver/white dials
-open to date, no date. don't like cyclops though.
-no yellow gold or gold colors
-Case/look should be versatile with a steel, leather, sport bracelet.
-I don't like overstated, but I don't like understated, I like a good "pop" and have some sporty class

Thank you for your time and interest in helping me!
Edited:
 
Foo2rama
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What watches do you like? What are your hobbies? What do you do for a living? How do you dress for work? How do you dress for the weekend? Is this your only watch? Do you travel or do business in other time zones frequently?
 
Ashi85
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Foo2rama Foo2rama
What watches do you like? What are your hobbies? What do you do for a living? How do you dress for work? How do you dress for the weekend? Is this your only watch? Do you travel or do business in other time zones frequently?
I live in Portland, Oregon and work in renewable energy. Portland vibe is very casual and our office is too (jeans with button down shirt). In winter, very rainy here so watch should be sufficiently water resistent where i won't be scared of it getting ruined walking to work. I travel a lot for within US and Canada (when there's no corona virus). When traveling, I'm dressed nicer for customers: blue blazer + light colored shirt + grey/khaki slacks + brown leather shoes and brown belt. I have a $200 fashion watch that has a deep ocean blue chrono dial, silver satin steel case and brown leather strap, that I typically wear. I have other black dial fashion watch that I wear on weeknds. This purchase will be my only luxury watch for now. I want to start my collection with this watch and as the buy a new piece every year or two.
 
Foo2rama
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I’d suggest a 300mc

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/seamaster-300/the-collection/product

classic looks. can dress up or down. Great alternative to the ubiquitous submariner. Looks good on a leather strap.

You can go to bobwatches.com and try and find an 85 no date sub.

A classic moon watch is always a good bet, getting an 85 will be a bit hard as it’s hard to date ones from that periiod.

Another future classic is the 2500d planet ocean in 42mm. Very clean everyday wear watch.
 
pcdubc
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With current market condition, I would stretch to the high end of your budget and get some birth year 1985 16800 or 5513, unpolished with papers.

They won't be easy to find, but within your budget surely. That piece can stay with you until you hit the grave.

My only other advice would be to wait just a tad longer for the market to deteriorate just a tad more....
 
JanV
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Chrono, a bit water resistant, dress and casual look, intriguing appearance, maybe the Zenith A386 could be really something for you?

This one you can change appearance with the help of a few different coloured and type of straps or bracelet. The multi color dial of this one just pops out in the sun...

You can never go wrong with a Speedmaster either...

As you where looking into a A386 MK I in your earlier thread, i would say your spot on with your choice, but you could go for a nice condition Mk II or III, this should be within your top budget. Condition, condition, condition is everything.
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BF14069F-6B2A-4D45-843C-56E6BB3C7800.jpeg 50BEAC05-2929-42DB-999F-D53B3555B27F.jpeg
STANDY
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Ashi85 Ashi85
-Budget: $6K - $15K USD
-Wrist size: 7.5" (19cm)

-I tend to like chronos
-I tend to like black/blue/silver/white dials

-Case/look should be versatile with a steel, leather, sport bracelet.
-I don't like overstated, but I don't like understated, I like a good "pop" and have some sporty class



FFFE95E2-891D-4C73-965F-3225F5320CED.jpeg


https://omegaforums.net/threads/speedy-tuesday-up-close-new-video-by-omegaforums.77613/

https://omegaforums.net/threads/speedmaster-speedy-tuesday-a-pictorial-review.69389/
 
Ashi85
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@Foo2rama - Not into the 300mc, but i agree with all your stylistic points. I like the Speedy Moonwatch and am looking at that. Do you have an example of the planet ocean?
@JanV I love the A386 and am exploring what's out there and even a homage piece to satisfy my craving.
@marco @pcdubc - Can't find an '85 out there. What do you think about these examples?
5513 - '67 meters first full set - $20K https://www.bobswatches.com/1967-vintage-rolex-submariner-5513-meters-first.html
16800- '78-'79 pumpkin - $15K - no papers - sold from private collection of a reputable collector. has been recently serviced.
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IMG_5954.jpeg
marco
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All these 5513's are very nice looking and as @Foo2rama says are in the deepend $ wise. I am always suspiscious of the lovely pumpkin lume. In my experiance the Rolex lume fades to a whitish cream colour.
I have few old Rolex's all genuine one owner watches and none of them have turned to the aged pumpkin colour.
Seeing as you are apparently interested in this price bracket there is also the option of the 5512. Remember condition is everything and a most of these dealer watches are "prepared".
I think the best advice is don't be hasty, there is a lot to know about these watches and many pitfalls for the unwary. A one owner piece from a trustworthy contact is preferable.
 
pcdubc
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marco marco
All these 5513's are very nice looking and as @Foo2rama says are in the deepend $ wise. I am always suspiscious of the lovely pumpkin lume. In my experiance the Rolex lume fades to a whitish cream colour.
I have few old Rolex's all genuine one owner watches and none of them have turned to the aged pumpkin colour.
Seeing as you are apparently interested in this price bracket there is also the option of the 5512. Remember condition is everything and a most of these dealer watches are "prepared".
I think the best advice is don't be hasty, there is a lot to know about these watches and many pitfalls for the unwary. A one owner piece from a trustworthy contact is preferable.

Second everything @marco wrote
 
Dan S
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marco marco
AI am always suspiscious of the lovely pumpkin lume. In my experiance the Rolex lume fades to a whitish cream colour.
I have few old Rolex's all genuine one owner watches and none of them have turned to the aged pumpkin colour.

Lume was made from different formulas and applied in different ways from year to year. Moreover, the same lume can age in a myriad of ways depending on the history of the watch in terms of UV and moisture exposure. The fact that your watches have not aged to this color is simply anecdotal evidence from a small sample, and there are many extremely knowledgeable collectors and dealers who are well aware that there were certain periods of time where it is not unusual to find lume that has aged darker. I think you should be more careful when making this type of generalization, which is completely incorrect in this case.
 
marco
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Dan S Dan S
Lume was made from different formulas and applied in different ways from year to year. Moreover, the same lume can age in a myriad of ways depending on the history of the watch in terms of UV and moisture exposure. The fact that your watches have not aged to this color is simply anecdotal evidence from a small sample, and there are many extremely knowledgeable collectors and dealers who are well aware that there were certain periods of time where it is not unusual to find lume that has aged darker. I think you should be more careful when making this type of generalization, which is completely incorrect in this case.
Very true about my opinion being anecdotal and a miniscule sample. I also find it unusual that these beautiful watches some dealers are selling often have the most attractive ( almost designer) coloured lume.
Coincidence, I think not. I have personal experience in this matter and will say no more.
I do not wish to get into an argument with any member who may have a lovely looking aged lume piece. Obviously there have been many different formulas over the years that age differently and some are the result of genuine natural aging.
There just seems to too many of this very attractive genre in hi end dealers salons.
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Ashi85
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Thanks for the spirited discussion. This "pumpkin" lume piece is coming from a local shop that's been around for 30 years. At $15K without papers, not sure if it's worth the price point, especially if there's any market skepticism, warranted or not. The pumpkin is a 1680 Sub from '78-'79. Looking online, most other period examples on the web do not look like it. Moreover, nothing looks this even in color or texture. There's usually some gradient. Who knows though, if lay out in the sun everyday the same way, i'd coat evenly. 😀
 
VetPsychWars
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I suggest you start with something from Marathon or Hamilton or Seiko. You can buy new without going broke, get a decent movement, and see how you like the care and feeding of a nice mechanical watch. If you trash it by mistake, you're not ruining a $5000 watch.

I wish I had started slow.

If you want to try vintage, I have some sub-$500 pieces I can sell you.

Tom
Edited:
 
Evitzee
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As a first luxury piece jumping into a $6-15k watch doesn't sound wise and is a way to get burned. Why not start with either a new watch or a gently used one from a reputable online dealer with box and papers. You can buy a brand new Speedmaster for less than $4,500 and you can change it up with all kinds of straps which are pretty cheap. You can then work yourself upwards in the future as you become more experienced.
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wagudc
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VetPsychWars VetPsychWars
I suggest you start with something from Marathon or Hamilton or Seiko. You can buy new without going broke, get a decent movement, and see how you like the care and feeding of a nice mechanical watch. If you trash it my mistake, you're not ruining a $5000 watch.

I wish I had started slow.

If you want to try vintage, I have some sub-$500 pieces I can sell you.

Tom

I could not agree more with this suggestion. If you don't have experience with vintage start slow. Certain lessons can't be taught, only learned from experience.

Even finding a good watchmaker. It is unpleasant to see the guy you thought was a good watchmaker open your vintage Bulova with a pair of needle nose pliers. Now imagine that is a $20K Submariner.
 
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