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hmmmcamu
·Thank you, I've asked for some clearer images so hopefully can get a better idea after that.
close up of vintage second sweep hands
My Early Seamaster 120 Divers. What to look for and what to avoid.
close up of vintage second sweep hands
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hmmmcamu
·Thanks hmmmcamu. It makes sense to me that the movement was made in 1967 but the watch was only bought and gifted in 1969. Or should that be a red flag?
not so much, could be due to the watch made in 1967 sat in the store and was finally sold or gifted in 1969
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JwRosenthal
·not so much, could be due to the watch made in 1967 sat in the store and was finally sold or gifted in 1969
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Davidt
·Thanks hmmmcamu. It makes sense to me that the movement was made in 1967 but the watch was only bought and gifted in 1969. Or should that be a red flag?
So is the serial 25m? 1967 is only the approximate year of manufacture. It’s fine for a watch that seems like it was sold towards the end of ‘69.
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HadgeBadge
·Y
Yup, serial number is right for 1967
So is the serial 25m? 1967 is only the approximate year of manufacture. It’s fine for a watch that seems like it was sold towards the end of ‘69.
Yup, serial number is right for 1967
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Davidt
·Again, it’s not “right” for 67, 1967 is simply the approximate date of production. Those serial number dating charts need to be taken with a huge punch of salt.
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JwRosenthal
·So we know most of it is fine- but you still have to ask yourself if you can live with the mismatched hands and moldy dial. Even if the “price is right”, you will either have to live with it as-is, or spend months/years hunting down the parts to make this one better. Having done the later and spent almost as much as I paid for the watch to get it straitened out- I at least had a clean dial and case to start.
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HadgeBadge
·Again, it’s not “right” for 67, 1967 is simply the approximate date of production. Those serial number dating charts need to be taken with a huge punch of salt.
By right, I mean that the serial number is in the right ball park for the date that is engraved on the back.
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HadgeBadge
·So we know most of it is fine- but you still have to ask yourself if you can live with the mismatched hands and moldy dial. Even if the “price is right”, you will either have to live with it as-is, or spend months/years hunting down the parts to make this one better. Having done the later and spent almost as much as I paid for the watch to get it straitened out- I at least had a clean dial and case to start.
Yes I agree. The hands, once you see how incorrect they are, it is difficult to unsee. I'll reserve judgemnt until I get a better, clearer look at the dial.
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JwRosenthal
·Yes I agree. The hands, once you see how incorrect they are, it is difficult to unsee. I'll reserve judgemnt until I get a better, clearer look at the dial.
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hmmmcamu
·TOTALLY agree, despite this model being desirable ... the case is in awful condition, the original handset is next to impossible to track down, as well as a bezel ... is it really worth ur money to spend on such a watch ??? ............. or save a bit more and find another in better condition ?
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HadgeBadge
·Some clearer iamges
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HadgeBadge
·TOTALLY agree, despite this model being desirable ... the case is in awful condition, the original handset is next to impossible to track down, as well as a bezel ... is it really worth ur money to spend on such a watch ??? ............. or save a bit more and find another in better condition ?
Yes, agree it is always best to rather hold out for a good example. Always tempting though...
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hmmmcamu
·Some clearer iamges
[/QUOT/QUOTE]
ask the seller to take a photo with the watch laying on its case back and the camera directly pointed at the dial
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JwRosenthal
·I’ve seen what I need to see. The hang tag on the bracelet told me more than anything else. This watch has been dressed up for sale. It was a ratty example with mismatched hands, rough case & bracelet and missing lume pip. Case has been heavily polished, bracelet rebrushed and pip filled with green goo. Hands were probably replaced years ago but if they did it, I hope they kept the originals as they are worth more missing the lume (can be relumed) than the ones on it now (I would ask if they have the originals).
The next question is how much. If around $1.5k or under- and you love it as-is, then ok. But if they want $2k plus- thank you for your time, I will keep looking.
Oh, and I count 19 links- so probably would fit max around a 7.25” wrist, I will verify how many mine has if you decide to go further on this one
The next question is how much. If around $1.5k or under- and you love it as-is, then ok. But if they want $2k plus- thank you for your time, I will keep looking.
Oh, and I count 19 links- so probably would fit max around a 7.25” wrist, I will verify how many mine has if you decide to go further on this one
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HadgeBadge
·Yup, thank you for all the help and opinions, it is hugely appreciated. Really helps to discuss to get a clearer picture. Asking price is just over $2k. Going to pass and keep on looking.
I guess half the fun is in the hunt 😀
I guess half the fun is in the hunt 😀
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JwRosenthal
·Yup, thank you for all the help and opinions, it is hugely appreciated. Really helps to discuss to get a clearer picture. Asking price is just over $2k. Going to pass and keep on looking.
I guess half the fun is in the hunt 😀
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JwRosenthal
·Oh, and if you like the C-case style (which is polarizing for sure) then the Omega trifecta IMO is the SM120, the C-cased Constellation, and the Speedmaster MKII. All three can be had in stunning condition for less than a new Speedmaster Pro.
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Davidt
·I think their SM120 is undervalued and they’re a great watch. However, it’s certainly a watch where it pays to take your time, set a sensible budget and buy a good example from the start rather than a doer upper as 1) many of the parts are no longer available, and 2) as they’re skin divers, they can look rough especially with water damage and mouldy lume.
It’s not enough to find a complete/original example, it needs to be attractive too. This one isn’t one I’d be chasing unless it was dirt cheap.
Shame about the case polish. It looks like that was done recently and I’ll bet it looked better before
It’s not enough to find a complete/original example, it needs to be attractive too. This one isn’t one I’d be chasing unless it was dirt cheap.
Shame about the case polish. It looks like that was done recently and I’ll bet it looked better before
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HadgeBadge
·Oh, and if you like the C-case style (which is polarizing for sure) then the Omega trifecta IMO is the SM120, the C-cased Constellation, and the Speedmaster MKII. All three can be had in stunning condition for less than a new Speedmaster Pro.
Thanks, I'll check those out.
