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My Early Seamaster 120 Divers. What to look for and what to avoid.

D
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After a long search of the Internet it would appear from the Omega archives that the case back on the left is for the 1970 production models of the Seamaster 120 for the USA market.
case.jpg
 
TheDuke1979
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gemini4 gemini4
In the 1960's, with the success of the of the Seamaster 300, 3rd generation divers, the 165.024 and 166.024, Omega began their series of "baby" divers, the SM120s. Cheaper, Smaller and lighter, 37mm as opposed to the 41mm SM300, the SM120s were initially produced in 4 references. Unlike the SM300 which were only automatic, manual movements were offered as well. 31mm ladies sizes too, (I don't have any of these but be careful as some sellers neglect to mention they are selling the tiny size!!)


THE FOUR REFERENCES:
135.027 Manual Movement, No Date, Caliber 601, 611
136.027 Manual Movement, with Date, Caliber 613
165.027 Auto Movement, No Date, Caliber 552
166.027 Auto Movement, with Date, Cailber 565

Below are pics of my SM120's. Most I think are fairly nice EXCEPT THE LAST EXAMPLE WHICH IS A BOGUS KNOCKOFF AND SHOULD BE AVOIDED!

I hope this is informative and corrections and comments are always welcome.

Ref 135.027
All 4 references appear to share the same case, 5.5mm crown, hands and matte bezel. The caseback Seahorse engraving appears to be the same on all 4 references as well.
image.jpeg


Casebacks on the 135.027 and 136.027 are flat. Seahorse is lightly engraved as shown.
image.jpeg


All original legitimate cases have notches at the 3 and the 9. This notch may be missing on bogus examples.
image.jpeg image.jpeg


136.027
image.jpeg image.jpeg



165.027 For me, the hardest of the 4 to source. Dial now includes "Automatic". Note the TT location on the dial is slightly different from the 135s
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Caseback is now domed to make room for the movement rotor.
image.jpeg


166.027s
image.jpeg image.jpeg



THIS IS THE BOGUS 166.027!! It's plentiful, it's cheap. This was the first SM120 I bought. My mistake cost $500 before I realized there was a difference. Other than a Caliber 565 movement taken from another Omega, it's all bad
🙁

Glossy bezel, wrong 4, different bezel font. Hands too short, Dial fonts and layout (Automatic is compressed). Black date on white background from the borrowed movement.
image.jpeg


Caseback seamonster is incorrect. Engraving is too deep. Crown too small.
image.jpeg



No case notch at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.
image.jpeg image.jpeg
Very interesting. Thanks
 
NikoMartinez_SYD
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This is fascinating information and has mate me want one now. I have other vintage omega divers, but not this! thanks for the insights.
 
sonicosa
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COYI COYI
Thanks. Yes, the bezel is also green
Just in case you ever get sick of it (doubtful)... dibs!
 
V
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Hi everyone.
I’m new to this forum and find this thread extremely useful when I’m looking for my first Seamaster 120 (my first vintage watch)
I came across a deal on eBay and cross referenced a few potential spots of fake SM120 shared on this thread. But still, I’m not confident to say if this is a real or a fake.
Can you take a look and let me know your thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
5815ADD3-F5B7-4527-8C4A-C6D30BA9E657.png C5999F5C-C7C6-4258-B713-9E888DD047C2.png 9C3442DD-9B18-410B-9CD9-38324EF1E828.png D62EAECA-A291-4231-8056-A1413FC72B4F.png 0017CF61-AE72-4756-8B47-F99C7207C85C.png 1B7BB6C5-D1B9-4913-8F47-04122ED9046C.png 242450F9-B68F-43A7-A271-00268620F265.png
 
V
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Sorry I forgot to mention, this is a 166.027 with Cal 563.the seller mentioned this is the original movement.
 
W
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Like many others have already on this post - I just want to say thank you all for your replies and information. I had no idea that counterfit watches were such a problem and that sellers are so sneaky. It is threads like this that make this community so great. I have a 135.027 that appears to be complete except it is missing a bezel. Seems to be a common thing - I take it the bezels broke and fell off often?
 
JwRosenthal
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W wcm82
Like many others have already on this post - I just want to say thank you all for your replies and information. I had no idea that counterfit watches were such a problem and that sellers are so sneaky. It is threads like this that make this community so great. I have a 135.027 that appears to be complete except it is missing a bezel. Seems to be a common thing - I take it the bezels broke and fell off often?
The bezels are metal so they don’t break as far as I have ever seen but like any diver watch where the bezel protrudes ever so slightly around the case, they are very easy to catch on the edge of a table or door frame and pop off as they are a friction fit (and if you’re moving quickly and don’t notice it until later - it’s a goner). I popped the bezel off my Speedy once on the edge of my desk but luckily saw it fly off and was able to have my watchmaker put it back on (you need a press to get it back on properly).
As for replacements, Omega has chosen to not make this part anymore and I have never seen an original pop up on the used market. I am not aware of an aftermarket bezel that fits properly or looks close to the original, but perhaps someone here has.
I think a viable solution to the problem of this NLA esthetic part would be nice to see, so if anyone can suggest a replacement that they know works- please share with the group- regardless of the taboo associates with the topic
 
sonicosa
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I've seen these watches pop up from time to time for sale without the bezel, and I don't hate the aesthetic. It reminds me of Brando's GMT and sort of has a stepped case look.

That said, I already have 2 with bezels, and if my only watch were missing the bezel, I might feel differently, I guess.
 
W
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I don't mind the way it looks without the bezel, but I would like to replace it eventually. I think I saw an article about Brando's Rolex - it sold not too long ago, fascinating story about that watches history.

I did see a bezel show up on ebay a few weeks back but it was for the smaller ladies size watch - it was gone almost immediately.
 
JwRosenthal
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They really don’t come up often- or at all. If you have read other threads, it’s a hot button topic (fake parts)- but I wouldn’t be happy with my SM120 if I lost the bezel. Some of us- who actually own these watches-for which parts are no longer available, feel differently than the bloviating keyboard warriors who are concerned with the placement of a dot and the value of their prized ring of metal for which new factory replacements are indeed available- us 120 owners have “real” (albeit beyond first world) problems.
 
W
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Yeah it's crazy - plus the fact that they're being passed off as real watches! I personally don't see the issue with a replacement 3rd party bezel IF the original is no longer available from Omega. I would be interested in getting one until I have a chance to source a proper Omega replacement as it could take years. My watch belonged to a family member so I don't plan on selling it, so I am in it for the long haul.
 
JwRosenthal
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W wcm82
Yeah it's crazy - plus the fact that they're being passed off as real watches! I personally don't see the issue with a replacement 3rd party bezel IF the original is no longer available from Omega. I would be interested in getting one until I have a chance to source a proper Omega replacement as it could take years. My watch belonged to a family member so I don't plan on selling it, so I am in it for the long haul.
Glad to hear it and I’m with you. I hope the bumping of this thread will prompt anyone who has tried an aftermarket bezel on one of these watches to come forward with some real world information- don’t be shy, I’ll throw my body in front of the stoning.
 
W
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I am still trying to track down a bezel, looks like I need 200 posts before I can post in WTB 🙁 - it's the last thing I need for my 135.0027 as managed to snag the correct crown!

I've seen 2 bezels the last couple months, but they were both for the smaller reference. They seem rare enough that we should almost setup a support group for everyone needing one lol

If anyone is looking for a bezel for the smaller size reference there is a blue one on ebay right now, looks to be in okay shape:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Omega-Seamaster-120-Rotating-Bezel-Diver-lady-wristwatch/223991107915

Although it doesn't help me - maybe it will be the answer to someones prayers.
 
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