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  1. JwRosenthal Jun 21, 2020

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    Over the years, several aftermarket bracelet makers (and even some OEM supplied on re-issue watches) have attempted the vintage “homage” bracelets- most if not all have failed to capture the appeal of what made the vintage bracelets so appealing by trying to modernize them in the wrong ways. What they have missed is slim profile, light weight, severe taper, friction clasp and hollow endlinks- plus the all so familiar jingle that has become the soundtrack of our people.
    Recently we have been lucky enough to see a few companies that have finally “gotten” it- with a bit of input from us- the people who know and love the real deal but did see potential for some improvement (I don’t know anyone who loves the folded link design aka hairpullers) There are some who scoff at anything but original bracelets on vintage watches but as we have seen the prices have become astronomical for some (even for vintage aftermarket!l) and there were also many watches where an OEM bracelet wasn’t even offered as an option.
    The first one we got that was truly rooted in the vintage style was the Forstner last year- almost dead on to the original but with a few smart modifications. It was marketed towards the Speedy crowd but as I can’t help myself from playing with my new toys, I tried it on several different watches starting with the Speedy of course
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    In the end I didn’t care for the lolipop appearance of it on the Speedy, but I found it perfect on my 38mm Wakmann Chrono (branded PP) with a it’s angular lugs- plus the watch is of the same period as the original JBC so is an appropriate period match.
    Most recently we got the New Mexican Holzer from Uncle Seiko. He first released the all brushed bracelet but I was holding out for the brushed/polished model as that’s closer to the original IMO and more in keeping with the vintage vibe. I got mine last week and ordered both 19 & 20mm endlinks and of course I couldn’t just put it on the Speedy but had to play with it
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    The Helbros is a tough one to mate to a bracelet as it has a 37-38mm case profile but takes a 19mm bracelet- most of the vintage bracelets I have that are 19mm are for a 34-35mm case so you get that curved gap.
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    This Tissot didn’t come with a factory bracelet option, and the curved lugs are very tough to find endlinks to match- this is dead on the money
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    On the SM120- Oh hell yeah!
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    Couldn’t help myself and had to try it on this 90’s Tag- the factory bracelet was never very attractive, nor comfortable and always felt like an afterthought- this is killer.
    After all is said and done, I ended up ordering another Polished Holzer and will probably have to order a third....and then the flatlink is coming in the near future so that may rotate bracelets around again!

    Please share your alternative pairings for these new vintage offerings other than on a Speedmaster for which they were initially intended. It’s fun to have options.
     
    Edited Jun 21, 2020
    Vitezi, Uncle Seiko, wagudc and 4 others like this.
  2. amcclell Jun 21, 2020

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    I get the feeling that you are just looking to show off your collection of black dial watches. Thanks for sharing- I am truly grateful and jealous. I bought one of the Forstner Komfit, mesh bracelets early this year and I really like it. It is comfortable and great value compared to the NOS ones that are a fortune on Ebay. I don't have a Speedmaster but I quite like the new flat link one, as well. 20200524_120635.jpg
     
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  3. krogerfoot Jun 21, 2020

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    My experience as well with the Forstner bracelet—bought it for a Seamaster chronograph, didn't love it, put in on another watch which looks absolutely smashing on it.

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    Lousy photo just to illustrate: The other day I unintentionally put the bracelet back on the opposite way I had it before, so it now has the clasp on top. I'm finding it a lot easier to put on this way. There has been some talk about it being hard to get the hang of fastening these little numbers, and I definitely needed privacy when doing so in the past.
     
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  4. JwRosenthal Jun 21, 2020

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    That looks fantastic on that case shape. I’ve never really cared for bracelets with strait endlinks but on that style watch it just works!
     
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  5. Theluglife Jun 22, 2020

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    I'm a huge fan of Forstner. especially with the new designs that he has previewed on their Instagram account. Very excited to see what else he comes up with in the future!
     
  6. jsducote Jun 22, 2020

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    Agree, those sharp lines complement the hexagonal crosspiece of the JBC.
    I disagree with you here though. It looks small & shallow on the TAG. Ditto on the Helbros. I think it looks best on either the SM120 or the Tissot. For the TAG, I'd be looking at a cognac/medium brown smooth leather with deployant. The Helbros needs a bracelet, personally I'd keep looking.
     
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  7. JwRosenthal Jun 22, 2020

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    The Helbros is tough- the ends of the lugs are angular despite the top of the case having a slight curve so it really needs “just” the right fit- I am tempted to flatten out the slight curve of the endlinks to see if it mates better to the case shape- but didn’t want to marry the bracelet to the watch before I played with all the variables.
    The fit on the Tag is actually very similar to the factory solid endlinks
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    the problem I always had with the factory bracelet was that the links hang up on themselves and I find myself constantly having to smooth them out.

    The Tissot and SM120 were shocking- no fitting, they just snapped right into place. Bracelet options for the 120 has always been an issue as the factory ones are usually clapped out and going for way more money than they should- the Holzer is an awesome alternative.
     
  8. jsducote Jun 23, 2020

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    The problem that I have with it, and it's really minor and only my opinion anyway, is that the lugs look longer than the endlinks (hence my previous term: shallow). This emphasizes, to my eye, that it's not the right bracelet for this case/lugs. And if the factory bracelet doesn't make you happy, I doubt anything will, so I'd just go to a strap instead. I like a brown leather with a black face chrono (I have the FOIS, after all) along these lines -
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    (Not an endorsement of Bulang & Sons from me, though there are plenty of others around who would)
    A black racing-style strap would also be befitting a Carrera.
     
  9. jsducote Jun 23, 2020

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