Longines Flagship Cal. 290, Ref. 7298

mwaller · Oct 17, 2019

Hello!
After a long hiatus, I recently got the watch bug again and have started looking into some brands that I had previously overlooked. My search for a high quality 'vintage' automatic dress watch led me this c.1960 Longines Flagship with a Cal 290 movement. The caseback is stamped 7298 2. I can find virtually no information about this model online...
However, I have found images of very similar watches with different moments, such as the Cal 340 and Cal 380.
Do I have a frankenwatch or...?
Thanks!

Spruce · Oct 17, 2019

You haven’t said how much you paid, or from whom you bought it, but from the single photo (and it would have been more helpful if you’d posted photos of the movement, caseback, and better ones of the dial) it doesn’t look like frankenwatch territory.

The unpolished and dirty case, old strap and grungy crystal (I’m assuming the dial is generally okay) lead me to suppose it’s genuine.

Probably benefit from a service, a clean a new crystal and a better strap.

mwaller · Oct 17, 2019

This came from a seller in Switzerland via Chrono24. I paid about $1K. The watch is currently being serviced by a local watchmaker, and will be receiving a new crystal. The origial was cracked, which doesn't really show in the photos. I would appreciate recommendations on a strap that would help the watch look a bit more masculine. The current strap tapers quite a bit and really looks 'off' on my wrist. Would mesh be a good choice? Other thoughts?
The seller's photos do a good job of flattering the watch. The condition is good, but the dial does have some age-related spotting.

longines-flagship-3-stars-calibre-automatic-290-1960 (1).jpg

longines-flagship-3-stars-calibre-automatic-290-1960 (2).jpg

longines-flagship-3-stars-calibre-automatic-290-1960 (3).jpg

longines-flagship-3-stars-calibre-automatic-290-1960 (4).jpg

longines-flagship-3-stars-calibre-automatic-290-1960 (5).jpg

longines-flagship-3-stars-calibre-automatic-290-1960.jpg

Spruce · Oct 17, 2019

It’s a lovely looking watch and I’m confident it’s not a frankenwatch but I’m sorry to say that in my opinion you’ve paid two to three times the actual value for a stainless steel watch, particularly adding in the cost of the service, which is a sensible move on your part. Hopefully your watchmaker will clean the grunge off the case.

I don’t know enough about Longines to say whether or not the crown is original but, given its size and condition, I suspect it to be a later addition and, if the crown is altered, then there may be other replacements consistent with the refurbishment of a 60 year old watch.

Don’t use any sort of metal or mesh bracelet. This will only damage the lugs. Go for a good quality leather strap. My choice would be black.

Having said all that, I’m sure you’ll enjoy wearing it.

mwaller · Oct 17, 2019

Thanks for the comments. You may be correct that I paid a high noob tax on this purchase. I've never purchased a 'vintage' watch before. I was specifically searching for a clean example of the Longines cal. 290. This one looked completely untouched, which could be good or bad. I will be interested to hear what the watchmaker finds when he gets into it.

Dan S · Oct 17, 2019

M mwaller
Hello!
After a long hiatus, I recently got the watch bug again and have started looking into some brands that I had previously overlooked. My search for a high quality 'vintage' automatic dress watch led me this c.1960 Longines Flagship with a Cal 290 movement. The caseback is stamped 7298 2. I can find virtually no information about this model online...
However, I have found images of very similar watches with different moments, such as the Cal 340 and Cal 380.
Do I have a frankenwatch or...?
Thanks!

Just looking on my phone, but at first glance it looks legit and like a nice enough example to me. I wouldn’t worry about the noob tax if you like it. Request a free extract of the archives via the Longines website and they will send you some historical information about your watch. Free of charge.

mwaller · Oct 17, 2019

Thanks for the suggestion! I didn't realize that Longines offers the extract for free. Most companies charge for this!
Any idea how to determine what is the correct crown for this model?

Dan S · Oct 17, 2019

M mwaller
Thanks for the suggestion! I didn't realize that Longines offers the extract for free. Most companies charge for this!
Any idea how to determine what is the correct crown for this model?

Research. 😀

mwaller · Oct 23, 2019

I heard back from Longines today. They confirmed that the movement serial number is correct for the case reference number. Interestingly, Longines states that the watch was manufactured in 1963. I'm guessing this watch was built from older parts, since Cal. 34X movements had been introduced around 1960 to replace the Cal. 29X movements. Or that is my understanding...

Radiumpassion · Oct 23, 2019

Usually Longines state the date of invoice, not manufacture. Maybe there can be
some overlap?

mwaller · Oct 23, 2019

The email I received from Longines says the watch "was produced in March 1963."
They did not provide any information about invoicing.

Dan S · Oct 23, 2019

M mwaller
I heard back from Longines today. They confirmed that the movement serial number is correct for the case reference number. Interestingly, Longines states that the watch was manufactured in 1963. I'm guessing this watch was built from older parts, since Cal. 34X movements had been introduced around 1960 to replace the Cal. 29X movements. Or that is my understanding...

Movements often overlap generations for several years, not just with Longines but with all manufacturers. Just because they make a new movement doesn't mean that there is a hard cut-off date where they switch from one to the other. That's true to this day if you think about it.

M mwaller
The email I received from Longines says the watch "was produced in March 1963."
They did not provide any information about invoicing.

Interesting, all of my Extracts give the invoice date.

Longines Flagship Cal. 290, Ref. 7298

mwaller

Spruce

mwaller

Spruce

mwaller

Dan S

mwaller

Dan S

mwaller

Radiumpassion

mwaller

Dan S

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