Is this normal on a 145.022-69 dial?

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dapellegrini

·Jul 30, 2025

Specifically looking at the hour markers... where the white color along the stepped ridge of the dial seems to T out a little

It's a little more prominent here on most of the hour markers, this time without the red circles, you easy to spot:

Is this a photo effect, or something that really does happen to some of these dials?

For instance I don't see it on this different example:

 

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ZWD

·Jul 30, 2025

This is something that correlates with the 220 Bezel misprint.

 

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dapellegrini

·Jul 30, 2025

The bottom example that looks clean is also a 220 misprint. Do you mean this oddity is only found on 145.022-69 in the timing of the 220 bezel misprint?

 

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ZWD

·Jul 30, 2025

Based on my poking around at 220's, yes it is in line with the era of 220s.
Are either of those straight writing by chance?

 

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eugeneandresson

·Jul 30, 2025

Is that lume-chipping? Old watchmakers perhaps laying the dials face-down when these were worth a beer and a fart?

 

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pascs

·Jul 30, 2025

I dont see it on my '69 with 220 bezel

 

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ZWD

·Jul 30, 2025

I believe it is during the application of the white paint on the dial. One of those things that is somewhat isolated to a series - in this case, a consistent bleeding up the step of the dial. You can spot it here and there on other dials from all eras but I think the consistency across all indices is curious. Could be a number of things that led to this.

Have a look at the image of the documented 220's on Speedmaster101s site: https://speedmaster101.com/sothebys-220-bezels/

 

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pascs

·Jul 30, 2025

Mine might be a bit earlier production than those sothebys, mine is movement 305937xx

 

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dapellegrini

·Jul 30, 2025

pascs

Mine might be a bit earlier production than those sothebys, mine is movement 305937xx

both of the examples above have serials starting with 3059.

 

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dapellegrini

·Jul 30, 2025

ZWD

I believe it is during the application of the white paint on the dial. One of those things that is somewhat isolated to a series - in this case, a consistent bleeding up the step of the dial. You can spot it here and there on other dials from all eras but I think the consistency across all indices is curious. Could be a number of things that led to this.

Have a look at the image of the documented 220's on Speedmaster101s site: https://speedmaster101.com/sothebys-220-bezels/

Thanks for that. Definitely can see it in those photos. My primary concern is/was if this indicated an aftermarket or repainted dial or would in someway affect the value of one of these.

 

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dapellegrini

·Jul 30, 2025

One other thing. The first two photos are of the same watch, at different angles, which had me wondering if this could be an iPhone photo artifact or perhaps exaggerated by a digital camera algorithm ?

 

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ZWD

·Jul 30, 2025

Ah so this is a prospective purchase.

Its very possible its a software artifact but I doubt it. The second shot is with a softbox and is better illuminated to see the marks in question.
I doubt its a redial of any kind, but I would get some more opinions on the matter from some more experienced eyes.

Edited: Jul 30, 2025

 

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Porteroso

·Jul 30, 2025

I'd be shocked if it was a redial. I think more likely a manufacturing defect. The white applied from out to in, and as whatever applied it hit the step, it resulted in what you see. Seems the simplest explanation and most likely.

Edit: I dont really mean defect, just something happened. I think the dial is quite nice.

Edited: Jul 30, 2025

 

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pitbos

·Jul 30, 2025

That dial looks very nice to me.

 

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dapellegrini

·Jul 30, 2025

Thanks for all the feedback so far. Yes, I have long been in the market for "the right" 145.022-69 error bezel - especially if said watch has an archive extract putting it in Sept 1970 and/or France.

This one has no such archive extract.

As the owner for more vintage watches than I would like to admit, I am aware of the minute details that lead to "trouble" but am no expert on these. I appreciate all of the feedback, and if there are any other thoughts or comments out there - please share!