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jimmyd13
·There are so many dial variations in Omegas that I would never call one "wrong" just because I've not seen or can't find another. Don't get hung up on that. Also, don't get fixated on the fact that you've found one other dial that's almost (or even exactly) the same. Instead, look at your dial.
This only comes with the experience of seeing a huge number of photos AND physically holding and examining a large number of correct watches. This isn't bragging. It's not about "I've done more of this that you". It's also hard to explain. It's just experience.
A lot of people have given details as to why this watch is a redial. Let me just draw your attention to a few points:
1) the subdial
This is always the area to look at first. It's the thing most people get wrong when reprinting a dial. When the dial was originally made, it had tooling marks (concentric circles). It's decorative. It's also the way the dial was machined. When first printed, those circles are clearly visible. If a dial is repainted, they either vanish altogether or they become less pronounced. Can you see those concentric circles on your dial? I can't in the photograph.
Also, the original print is centred. If it wasn't, the dial failed the quality control and was cleaned and restamped. Is your print on the subdial perfectly centred? Are the individual markers evenly printed? Here's an all original dial
and here's a redial:
Can you see the clear circles in the first and how they're masked in the second?
2) Overpaint/Bleeding
Still looking at the subdial, move your attention to the black area. That subdial no longer appears round. The print is bleeding over from the main dial into the subdial. Again, this would have failed inspection at the factory. It's just sloppy. Omega did many strange things but they never did "sloppy".
3) Second and minute tracks
Rail tracks are the norm on the Omegas. You don't see individual markers as on your dial or my second example. Also, original dials are easily read. Look at the 5 minute marks. On my first example, these are blocked. Sometimes they might just be thicker lines ... but they're always distinguishable from the other minute marks.
Now, these points are generic. You can apply them to any watch and they will usually steer you in the right direction. When it comes to specifics, then you need to have particular knowledge of a reference. There are members who have commented on here who have that knowledge. I won't pretend to be one of them so I'll stop with the advice there.
What I will say is don't feel bad about not knowing. I've been doing this for more years than I care to count and I still make mistakes. Not many. But enough to be annoyed when it happens.
This only comes with the experience of seeing a huge number of photos AND physically holding and examining a large number of correct watches. This isn't bragging. It's not about "I've done more of this that you". It's also hard to explain. It's just experience.
A lot of people have given details as to why this watch is a redial. Let me just draw your attention to a few points:
1) the subdial
This is always the area to look at first. It's the thing most people get wrong when reprinting a dial. When the dial was originally made, it had tooling marks (concentric circles). It's decorative. It's also the way the dial was machined. When first printed, those circles are clearly visible. If a dial is repainted, they either vanish altogether or they become less pronounced. Can you see those concentric circles on your dial? I can't in the photograph.
Also, the original print is centred. If it wasn't, the dial failed the quality control and was cleaned and restamped. Is your print on the subdial perfectly centred? Are the individual markers evenly printed? Here's an all original dial
and here's a redial:
Can you see the clear circles in the first and how they're masked in the second?
2) Overpaint/Bleeding
Still looking at the subdial, move your attention to the black area. That subdial no longer appears round. The print is bleeding over from the main dial into the subdial. Again, this would have failed inspection at the factory. It's just sloppy. Omega did many strange things but they never did "sloppy".
3) Second and minute tracks
Rail tracks are the norm on the Omegas. You don't see individual markers as on your dial or my second example. Also, original dials are easily read. Look at the 5 minute marks. On my first example, these are blocked. Sometimes they might just be thicker lines ... but they're always distinguishable from the other minute marks.
Now, these points are generic. You can apply them to any watch and they will usually steer you in the right direction. When it comes to specifics, then you need to have particular knowledge of a reference. There are members who have commented on here who have that knowledge. I won't pretend to be one of them so I'll stop with the advice there.
What I will say is don't feel bad about not knowing. I've been doing this for more years than I care to count and I still make mistakes. Not many. But enough to be annoyed when it happens.
