How to remove this type of caseback?

Yep, that's what I do. Unless my English skills are failing me and I've written something weird, of course 😁

I glue the socket on the caseback and let the glue harden. Then I click the socket on the wrench and turn... No need for a nut as that would only give more risk of slipping and have the metal scratch the case - this way the caseback is glued to the socket and the socket locked onto the wrench.

True, there is a lot more surface area on a nut than on the edge of the socket - will upgrade to the nut if the socket alone should fail! 😀

Dang! Well I'll be dawg-gone down.

I have an old Tissot PR516 / Lemania 873 chrono with a dodecagonal case back with no notches or anything to turn it with, and the back was absolutely immovable. I tried the sticky-rubber ball, tried duck tape, even tried gluing a 14mm nut onto the back and trying to wrench it off with a socket, but the nut just came off. I gave it to a local watchmaker and he said he had several people try a number of tricks and nothing would move it.



Reading @ConElPueblo's story above I figured it's worth another try - after another go with the 14mm nut and letting it set for a good hour or more, but that came off again after just a bit of force. Cleaned up the back of the watch with acetone, applied just a thin bead of cheapo superglue along the flat edge of a 17mm socket and pressed it firmly in place. Left it for about 30 minutes, the last 10 or so being in the fridge to make sure it was good and set (it being 35 degrees C at home today).

BINGO. Sustained but gentle pressure with a large socket wrench, and it came away. Looking at the state of the gasket, it's no wonder it was welded so tight.



I've carefully cleaned the worst of the gunk from the remains of the gasket, put the case back on and will get it in for a service before too long 😀

That movement looks great! No doubt protected from the environments by the liquified gasket - well worth a service 👍

I think that’s going to be my next option as I’ve tried the ball and the 3-jaw with no success.

I echo @Dan S's in the use of a LG tool. While a new one is a fair few times more costly than a cheap Jaxa-type (the typical three jaw) it is ridiculously good for most casebacks. If you combine it with the Openall holder it becomes a stationary tool, though you will need a bench vise.

Another tip is to look for used tools on eBay, and you can find some excellent deals with some patience. Just don't go overboard buying everything in sight!

My improvised setup involves a case holder mounted to a homemade mincing platform...



I would also suggest placing a sheet of plastic (parts/coin bags work well) over the back to ensure scratches are minimised. Once loosened you can continue to use the tool, switch to a friction ball or use your fingers (just remember to clean up afterwards!)

use this thing.

Link? seems intriguing 😀

there's no link actually. a few of us had it 3d scanned and then created to fit the Enicar Shrepas!

once you have it for your caseback it's never a problem!

Works like magic every time and doesn't leave a mark!

Very neat 😀

I believe @Pahawi's Speedy Case homemade opening tool is also excellent for it's one main purpose 😁

Mine's verrrrrrrrrrrry focussed! lol

but they're very inexpensive even for one offs

As long as you don't go down the road of watch-branded tools...do you collect them or use them?

If this were mine it'd replace my current case vice pretty much ASAP 😜

I like this super glue / ratchet thing. I think I'll glue an impact socket to the back of my Conquest and fire up the compressor.

@ConElPueblo - are you sure I won't ruin the fish medallion and all the green enamel on it?