How to "Auction Watch Photography"

[Vintage.View]

So I've been into photography longer then my decade of watches. I have the gear and knowledge to shoot a proper photo but one workflow I never really understood.

That is the typical Phillips auction photo. They have watches positioned in a way that the bracelet looks like a solid lump stuck to the case. What is the workflow for auction houses to photograph like this? I was considering a transparent background but wouldn't that have too much work afterwards? Or is it a holder that has the watch against a background?

Hope to see some kind of inside look at how these photo are made or any suggestions that could make this "position" work.

 

[Spacefruit]

Trial and error with lighting, and reflectors. I have a feeling they shoot at a slight angle, and with the watch west to east, and rotate in post.

Plus in the case of Phillips, a little splash of Photoshop.

This is my photo

 

[Vintage.View]

I think they take a little bit more distance and then crop but your watch is on a flat surface. Do they use photoshop to cut it out or is it on a specific stand?

 

[Bing813]

I have such a hard time removing background light that a watch was ignored for a week until someone asked if the 3 white dots were on the dial or crystal 😁 It was the ceiling light and I was embarrassed obviously and had to re-list the item properly.

 

[Vintage.View]

Oké I got some results with trying the new workflow. Still a pain in the ass but we have a result.

I use a Sony A7 with 100mm macro and a photo tent. Took the photo horizontal with some elevation to the watch and background.

Using this setup is extremely sensitive to changes in photo tent and camera position so they probably have a setup pinned down.




Then flipped the image and painted out the elevation change (photo roll containers). And off course I forgot to shoot a photo without the watch so I could paint in the background details myself...

But does this look auction worthy?

 

[Aroxx]

I’m not sure I’m following the whole conversation but I’m thinking they could just separate the bracelet and hang it from one end in front of some background.

 

[JimInOz]

I have to play with the lighting a bit.



My kitchen doesn't quite have studio lighting 😁.

 

[eugeneandresson]

Brownie points if there are gloves in the pictures…



Double-brownie points if they are white and cotton …

 

[BlackTalon]

Spacefruit

Trial and error with lighting, and reflectors. I have a feeling they shoot at a slight angle, and with the watch west to east, and rotate in post.
Plus in the case of Phillips, a little splash of Photoshop.
This is my photo

William -- you need to adjust the white balance. The black dial looks blue in your photo.




Yeah, I know. Showoff! 😁

 

[Vintage.View]

Aroxx

I’m not sure I’m following the whole conversation but I’m thinking they could just separate the bracelet and hang it from one end in front of some background.

The watches in the Phillips catalog don't have a nearby background. This means either photoshopping the background or having them in some sort of holder. The issue with all the photo's posted here is that you can see that the watches are on a background.

 

[Aroxx]

Vintage.View

The watches in the Phillips catalog don't have a nearby background. This means either photoshopping the background or having them in some sort of holder. The issue with all the photo's posted here is that you can see that the watches are on a background.

Gotcha. I think my solution may be the easiest then, no?

 

[Vintage.View]

Aroxx

Gotcha. I think my solution may be the easiest then, no?

Well many bracelet or strap watches don't "hang" straight. Which leads to a very awkward angle. So I personally don't think they have them photographed vertically.

Also I'm just curious how the process is at a bigger auction since you have to make a workflow to shoot 200 watches in a consistent manner.

 

[Risto]

I am pretty sure that their watches are attached by wire from both ends of the strap or bracelet. They have made a "rig" for that.

I normally shoot that kind of photo by holding the watch from both ends of the strap. The camera is on the tripod. I use a 10-sec shutter release. Of course, I have to have plenty of light, because I have to use fast shutter speeds (200++) due to my hand moving (heartbeat). And it's very difficult to get the watch in focus when using a wider aperture (f/5.6). So, it takes some time to get results good enough.

These photos were all taken this way.

 

[chronolux]

Risto

I am pretty sure that their watches are attached by wire from both ends of the strap or bracelet. They have made a "rig" for that.

I normally shoot that kind of photo by holding the watch from both ends of the strap. The camera is on the tripod. I use a 10-sec shutter release. Of course, I have to have plenty of light, because I have to use fast shutter speeds (200++) due to my hand moving (heartbeat). And it's very difficult to get the watch in focus when using a wider aperture (f/5.6). So, it takes some time to get results good enough.

These photos were all taken this way.

What mm lens did you us?

 

[Risto]

C chronolux

What mm lens did you us?

I always use manual Laowa 65mm f/2.8 macro lens to photograph watches.

 

[LawrenceH]

Vintage.View

Oké I got some results with trying the new workflow. Still a pain in the ass but we have a result.

I use a Sony A7 with 100mm macro and a photo tent. Took the photo horizontal with some elevation to the watch and background.

Using this setup is extremely sensitive to changes in photo tent and camera position so they probably have a setup pinned down.




Then flipped the image and painted out the elevation change (photo roll containers). And off course I forgot to shoot a photo without the watch so I could paint in the background details myself...

But does this look auction worthy?

That looks great bro

 

[SpeedyPhill]

Ever since the very first dedicated wrist watch auction in April 1981 (GGHA - Geneva Switzerland) we know that auction houses are NOT in the business of photographing nor identicating items, just in the business of selling items. 🤔

 

[Evitzee]

Just adding a little context here. I just consigned two watches to an auction house for a June auction in NYC, watches were delivered yesterday and I just received word that they have already been photographed for the catalogue which will appear around May 14th. That's about seven weeks away so that gives them plenty of time to do whatever manipulation or correction they have to do. Both watches were on straps with deployant buckles so I'll have to see how they are eventually shown in the catalogue and online. In my view you should not rely too much on a catalogue's pictures, their purpose is not to present the watch with all its flaws, but to show it in its best possible light. If you are going to bid on something you or a friend need to sight it personally.

 

[Makesbelieve]

Risto

it's very difficult to get the watch in focus when using a wider aperture

This info probably won't be of use to anyone here but as a professional designer I have worked with many a product photographer over the years and when it comes to jewelry and watches the objects are actually photographed 100s of times at many focal depths, cut into their constituent parts i.e. one shot of the masked and isolated hands, one of the indicies, one of the dial, the logo, the case, etc etc and then recomposited in photoshop to achieve an image where each part irrespective if depth is perfectly in focus. Once that's achieved we dial in different artificial blur levels to achieve something that looks natural and doesn't sit in the 'uncanny valley'. This also allows you the flexibility of using the same images for extreme close up shots.

Of course most auction houses don't go to this level of detail but I would assume a place like Phillips would.

 

[Scarecrow Boat]

Makesbelieve

This info probably won't be of use to anyone here but as a professional designer I have worked with many a product photographer over the years and when it comes to jewelry and watches the objects are actually photographed 100s of times at many focal depths, cut into their constituent parts i.e. one shot of the masked and isolated hands, one of the indicies, one of the dial, the logo, the case, etc etc and then recomposited in photoshop to achieve an image where each part irrespective if depth is perfectly in focus. Once that's achieved we dial in different artificial blur levels to achieve something that looks natural and doesn't sit in the 'uncanny valley'. This also allows you the flexibility of using the same images for extreme close up shots.

Of course most auction houses don't go to this level of detail but I would assume a place like Phillips would.

Ah yes, focus stacking.

I’ve done this a number of times. It definitely has its time and place but yeah, I can’t imagine many auction houses implementing this.