Sa Calobra
·Great thread … the Spacefruit comments are always worth a read.
I recently bought a 145.022-69, my first pre-Moon Speedmaster. It helped me a lot to think about what was most important to me in terms of the model or vintage that I was looking for — movement (321/861)? DON vs DNN? Correct bracelet/period-accurate bracelet/head only? Applied metal dial vs painted dial? Recently serviced (and by whom?) as opposed to needing service (and maybe involving unforeseen expense)?
Each of these has a cost; for a 145.022-69, the bezel alone makes a huge difference. So would you rather spend similar money on a really nice DNN example, or a less nice DON example? After reluctantly admitting that I wasn’t going to find an immaculate Ed White at my local flea market, I sort of narrowed things down to a 145.022, likely a -68 or -69. Although I’d kind of hoped to find a transitional 145.022-68, I figured that a 145.022-69 would be more likely. And I decided that for the same dollar (or a little less) I would rather have a nice DNN example. The bracelet wasn’t a huge deal breaker for me either way.
So that was the thought process that helped me narrow down the search. After that it was all about condition and buying the seller.
I agree with you it's about defining the elements that truly matter for you and optimise for that, even though some of it you will only find out after getting your first watch in and wearing it for a while. For me it was nice colour of the lume and state of the bezel, but only when I got it I learned to appreciate the applied logo!