Help with Evaluation of a 2627 3 Sc

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Hi all, new to this forum and new to having "the watch bug". I would not pretend to be a collector, but would say I appreciate originality over perfection.

I have bought this 2627 cal 355 on eBay. Please feel free to tell it like it is as I have a thick skin. It is a nice looking piece but has the (possibly minor) problem of skipping/ hooking seconds, although is still keeping good time. I also need an experienced user to quell or confirm my suspicions that this is a redial.

Please let me know what you think, I am eager to learn.

Additional questions: is a cal 355 a movement that would have originally come in this 2627 watch?

What would experience tell you is a good time for a charge to last on a 3xx movement from a full wind and without wearing the watch?
 
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It's a redial and the lume may be missing for the indicies? I can't tell much about the case as most of your photos are angled which is screwing up the focus, and the front-on shot is very unfocused. What I can see is that the backs of the lugs have been ground away by a metal flex bracelet. Movement looks very grubby. Other members may be able to spot more issues.
Case and movement would have been sold together.

As for the issues with the beat, what you're saying sounds quite odd and should definitely be assessed by a watchmaker.
Power reserve is 42 hours, but may vary by a couple of hours. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?13&ranfft&170&2uswk&Omega_355

Here is a thread featuring a very nice 2627-3 cal.355 that you might want to draw comparisons from / photography inspiration
https://omegaforums.net/threads/my-...-2627-stainless-waffle-dial-crosshair.114877/
 
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Repainted dial, as noted. According to the OVD, cal 355 can be correct for a 2627.

I would typically look for a power reserve of something like 30-36 hours where the watch keeps reasonable time. It may have been longer originally, but an old unserviced watch may not perform as well.
 
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V Vexed
has the (possibly minor) problem of skipping/ hooking seconds

This seems to be an issue with the friction spring and can be easily sorted during a service
Edited:
 
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Also seems that the crown is not correct.

Here is my example (without lume). Note how crisp the dial printing is originally.

 
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It's a redial and the lume may be missing for the indicies? I can't tell much about the case as most of your photos are angled which is screwing up the focus, and the front-on shot is very unfocused. What I can see is that the backs of the lugs have been ground away by a metal flex bracelet. Movement looks very grubby. Other members may be able to spot more issues.
Case and movement would have been sold together.

As for the issues with the beat, what you're saying sounds quite odd and should definitely be assessed by a watchmaker.
Power reserve is 42 hours, but may vary by a couple of hours. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?13&ranfft&170&2uswk&Omega_355

Here is a thread featuring a very nice 2627-3 cal.355 that you might want to draw comparisons from / photography inspiration
https://omegaforums.net/threads/my-...-2627-stainless-waffle-dial-crosshair.114877/
Thanks for the info and your time, will definitely read those threads. Apologies for some of the poorer photos. Bad cellphone camera (read bad camera operator) in a somewhat dark office.
 
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Repainted dial, as noted. According to the OVD, cal 355 can be correct for a 2627.

I would typically look for a power reserve of something like 30-36 hours where the watch keeps reasonable time. It may have been longer originally, but an old unserviced watch may not perform as well.
Thanks Dan.
 
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Also seems that the crown is not correct.

Here is my example (without lume). Note how crisp the dial printing is originally.


That is a very nice example. Writing seems a lot thinner and neater. Definitely add that to the checklist.

Where would one find info on, for example, what crown would be original equipment on a certain model of watch? I have been trawling the omega vintage site - which often has very little info. The other place I have looked is the omega vintage database (I guess privately run by enthusiasts) but this seems to also be a bit variable.
 
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This seems to be an issue with the friction spring and can be easily sorted during a service
Thanks. Will get this checked out as soon as I can. I did already notice that the movement was quite dirty and I assumed it would be in need of a service either way.
 
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V Vexed
That is a very nice example. Writing seems a lot thinner and neater. Definitely add that to the checklist.

Where would one find info on, for example, what crown would be original equipment on a certain model of watch? I have been trawling the omega vintage site - which often has very little info. The other place I have looked is the omega vintage database (I guess privately run by enthusiasts) but this seems to also be a bit variable.

The site that we typically call the OVD (https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/vintage-watches) is run by Omega, IIRC. I'm not sure what other site you are referring to.

Unfortunately, there is no single easy way to learn everything about vintage Omega or any other watch brand. The only way I know is to painstakingly study the particular model of watch that you are interested in, by reading everything you can find, sorting the wheat from the chaff, gathering your own data by viewing hundreds of examples, and consolidating the information.
 
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Yes it really takes time to start being able to spot the tiny differences which separate an original watch from the others.