Hands look to be incorrect replacements also. They are a bit too short.
A restoration of this watch is going to be not economically viable.
gatorcpa
Hands are wrong, dial is bad, case has corrosion, and I have suspicions about the crown. My guess: its worth about what a parts movement is, without a good balance spring.
In good shape/serviced, these are probably worth ~$1500 as best I can tell. In this condition: probably 1/3 of that at best. You'll probably have a very hard time finding a replacement hairspring, at which point I'm not sure it'd be worth any more than it is today. That said:
IT might be worth servicing (if you can do so yourself/inexpensively), and the parts (despite them being poor value), if it is something you would wear/enjoy wearing.
It’s certainly a real Omega but the dial is very tired at this point. Are you planning to just service it and wear it? Because the movement will likely serve you quite well if so
Hands are wrong, dial is bad, case has corrosion, and I have suspicions about the crown. My guess: its worth about what a parts movement is, without a good balance spring.
In good shape/serviced, these are probably worth ~$1500 as best I can tell. In this condition: probably 1/3 of that at best. You'll probably have a very hard time finding a replacement hairspring, at which point I'm not sure it'd be worth any more than it is today. That said:
IT might be worth servicing (if you can do so yourself/inexpensively), and the parts (despite them being poor value), if it is something you would wear/enjoy wearing.
Hands are wrong, dial is bad, case has corrosion, and I have suspicions about the crown. My guess: its worth about what a parts movement is, without a good balance spring.
In good shape/serviced, these are probably worth ~$1500 as best I can tell. In this condition: probably 1/3 of that at best. You'll probably have a very hard time finding a replacement hairspring, at which point I'm not sure it'd be worth any more than it is today. That said:
IT might be worth servicing (if you can do so yourself/inexpensively), and the parts (despite them being poor value), if it is something you would wear/enjoy wearing.
I believe the tips on them are broken looking closely at the ends of the hands
I believe the tips on them are broken looking closely at the ends of the hands
I have better pics of the crown and tip break on the hands and hairspring but it seems to only let me post the first 2 pics
The caliber number is just under the balance. Can sort of make out a 3. and a 0.
Omega changed the numbering from mm size to the 3 digit code. 30 was a popular size. So 30T is a guess. Has incabloc so PC would also be probable. Center seconds would be SC. My guess would be something like a 30 SC T4 PC which was renumbered to 284.
26x calibers are usually sub seconds.
These are great movements to work on. Not complex at all.
If you do want to take up watchmaking. Get some decent off brand mechanical in tip top shape that keeps time. Will cost around 150 to 300. If you do not like that sort of price then watchmaking is probably not the best hobby.
Individual parts trend around 35 to 80. More often than not they are mislabeled, used and worn out, when aquired through online marketplaces. Takes a bit of learning to risk ordering such.
Most of the value here is in the mid case and back, bezel and crystal. Parts movements are trending around 150 to 250. Which is the price of a new balance and hairspring or balance complete. Fitting a new hairspring is called vibrating and is an advanced skill.
Dials and handsets are another 1 to 300 depending on condition. Which is why it is often cheaper to simply purchase a complete unserviced watch.
30 T2 is the base caliber which is 260.
These are the most common 30mm three hander movements.
I think the T number affects the number of jewels. May also have something to do with dial feet position. Or simply variations in manufacturing like hand heights upgrades etc.
The salvaged Ranfft database has a lot of errors. The Gleave site has the data sheets. One has to cross reference the numbers.
These base plates are also interchangable. So if the movement is franken, the bridges can get swapped about.
My catalog is from the early 1960s. and marked GF 620-3. The 260 base caliber is from 1943 so it notes to see catalog GF 620-1 .
Often when someone new comes into a company they renumber everything, so it looks like they are actually doing something and keeping things up to date. Omega was also using computer index cards in the 1950s and 1960s so the number changes may be from a switch where the manual ledgers were replaced with the index cards.
