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roadracer420
·So I’m a little more confused just looked there and none of the 260’s or 280’s had a 16jewel as far as I can tell this was a specific us army order based of the reference number 2843-3
Help with authentication
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Dan S
·I don't think it's uncommon for the 30T2 SC to have 16j.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaThe 30T2 family came with 15, 16, 17 and 18 jewel variations.
I wouldn't worry about it being a franken, just get it running and wear it as is.
Trying to do a full restoration would be futile IMO.
I wouldn't worry about it being a franken, just get it running and wear it as is.
Trying to do a full restoration would be futile IMO.
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sheepdoll
·Want to make sure it’s not/ does not become a franken watch
Understanding the variations takes a lot of study. Searching through the old ephemera. Some of this is online, some one has to track down the old service manuals and things. Even when one does all the research, and has the ah ha moment , only to discover that they are wrong.
It also helps to see and handle the watches in person. Both good examples and the not so good ones.
I have been collecting for probably more than 35 years. Took a number of years off as I lost interest. Repainted dials never bothered me since that is what was the norm in the early 1990s. One had the choice of a dozen or so restorers. I spent years studying the processes myself. Back then one did not have the net, so there was a lot of searching out others who had the info. Joining clubs, visiting museums, collecting old watchmaking magazines.
Values change over time. What I did not find attractive then, I do now.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaHere are two of my 30T2SCs, both with 16 jewel movements.
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roadracer420
·This example will never be more than a beater parts frankenish watch. Personally that is what I collect which I call rust rat watches. Economically these make no sense, but is sure is fun.
Understanding the variations takes a lot of study. Searching through the old ephemera. Some of this is online, some one has to track down the old service manuals and things. Even when one does all the research, and has the ah ha moment , only to discover that they are wrong.
It also helps to see and handle the watches in person. Both good examples and the not so good ones.
I have been collecting for probably more than 35 years. Took a number of years off as I lost interest. Repainted dials never bothered me since that is what was the norm in the early 1990s. One had the choice of a dozen or so restorers. I spent years studying the processes myself. Back then one did not have the net, so there was a lot of searching out others who had the info. Joining clubs, visiting museums, collecting old watchmaking magazines.
Values change over time. What I did not find attractive then, I do now.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne Australiaas I can tell this was a specific us army order based of the reference number 2843-3
PS: The only issue I see are the hands, possibly but not certainly the crown, let me check my examples.
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OllieOnTheRocks
·There is little to no value in this watch. I'd sell it as is as spare parts on ebay auction starting at £100 / $150, or if you have the ability get it running and then sell it as a running watch, starting at £200 / $300.
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roadracer420
·As far as I can tell this is still completely original is there any reason why you think it is Franken already
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roadracer420
·There is little to no value in this watch. I'd sell it as is as spare parts on ebay auction starting at £100 / $150, or if you have the ability get it running and then sell it as a running watch, starting at £200 / $300.
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roadracer420
·Picture of the outside of the caseback please.
PS: The only issue I see are the hands, possibly but not certainly the crown, let me check my examples.
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OllieOnTheRocks
·Please elaborate why you
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OllieOnTheRocks
·Hands are not original. Dial is trash. Movement doesn’t work. So therefore the value is in the case and the non working movement. If it was working it’s still not an attractive watch. If you find a good dial the hands are still not original and need replacing. If you find new hands and a new dial and repair the movement it may then be worth something to a collector. But it’s a lot of work and a lot of money and it could take you 1 year or 3 years to find the right bits only to have a watch which cost you more than its value. It’s not worth the hassle. Unless of course you have another project ongoing which you can use these parts to help with. I’d take advantage of only paying £40 - double or triple your money and use that money for a project watch that has at least a nice dial. These ones are worth saving.
You could always keep it for a future project if you like these 1940s omegas. But if it were me I’d pocket what I could now and use that for something that has better prospects.
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roadracer420
·Just FYI I have 3 or 4 dials for watch projects. I buy dials as they’re a lot easier to find cases for, whereas the other way around - finding a dial for the case is a lot harder. Dials gets damaged whereas cases are much more hardy. But even that’s hard work and some have been sitting in my office for a couple of years.
You could always keep it for a future project if you like these 1940s omegas. But if it were me I’d pocket what I could now and use that for something that has better prospects.
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OllieOnTheRocks
·Feel like selling one?
