Long time lurker, infrequent poster. I came across this interesting vintage Hermes chronograph from an eBay account that looks to be an antique dealer based out of Japan. Here's the postingPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network. I can't find any examples similar to it on the internet, so was wondering if the collective knowledge of OF might serve me better -- do you all think this watch is original in any aspect? It's really cool looking and I've been searching for some sort of UG/Hermes vtg piece for awhile to no avail. Wondering if this one might fit the bill.

Thanks in advance for your wisdom!

 

100% fake.

 

as someone trying to learn, what were the tipoffs for you?

 

Nah. Just a put-together piece. It's a mess. How in the world would you put Hermes in the same category with UG? Hermes makes handbags IIRC.

 

I was referencing how hermes retailed UG pieces in the ~1940s and sometimes double-stamped dials, e.g.: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-a-universal-geneve-chronograph-retailed-by-hermes-and

 

If you're interested in a UG chronograph, you might want to consider buying Sala's book and reading up on the various references. It's hard enough to find a UG Uni-Compax or Compax with a nice original dial, I don't recommend complicating things by looking for unicorn double-signed pieces.

 

Wouldn't need to go past the horrible off-center laser etched markings inside the case back.

 

The obliterated import code on the balance cock is always a nice touch.

 

In addition to what others have said: This not a UG chronograph. When you look at a watch you need to first see if the movement checks out with whatever the rest is. So you need to learn to identify movements. It takes time to study. If you cannot do it, then it is ill advised to look at buying vintage watches. There is no substitute for learning.
Best regards

 

And this is expertly accumulated instinct and knowledge, to be studied, absorbed and remembered.

It even comes free of charge and its value is priceless.

That's why I like this place.

 

Cannot resist adding here: yes, why would one put Hermes in the same category with UG? Hermes is the Patek Philippe of leather work and saddlery, has been at the apex of refinement for 150 years, how would it end up retailing watches from a smallish second tier watch company is kind of a mystery.

 

Thanks for the broader perspective.

 

With pleasure and you should note Hermes makes some of the finest watch straps in the world, cut from the same home grown hides as their luggage and bags.
Their flat stitched grained calf strap style has been imitated by all of the JPMs, Bulang /Hodinkee, etc strap makers in the world, and now by many more others, and it is no coincidence if Apple partnered with them to make straps for the Apple I watch— it’s a marriage among equals, companies at the top of their game. Below are imitations of the straps Hermes has been making since the 1980s, and now people are starting to imitate even the very distinctive Hermes buckle. (Last two pictures are actual Hermes straps, but I couldn’t find any proper pictures on my phone. The straps are so desirable they’re being sold second hand on Ebay ).