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Help Me Identify My First Omega Seamaster Please !

Y
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Hi everyone,

I just purchased my first Seamaster. The seller claims it is between 1950-1959, however I am unsure on how to tell. I have attached all the images I was provided with below.

Also, it is referenced as 2846-8 SC, Cal. 501. Are these references correct?
I believe the watch and the strap are real but am unsure as it is my first. Please help me authenticate this watch and if it’s real please tell me more information if you can. Thank you for all the help ❤️
 
88A4FE95-B294-4112-AE25-08152DC869B9.png 8CBD1A5D-7935-4E30-94C9-4B78AC979CE1.png 0907A013-2BAB-4D76-BF25-50A36E664256.png EB04558F-AF83-4B54-A116-C897A50C6BC9.png 362E4688-6E06-4DF0-812F-D274DF5441FD.png CC906882-02DE-4F06-86F6-B55816D17851.png A1BD49A1-C330-447A-8CCA-BB5E857A93C4.png 42920C47-33CC-49DD-8557-F6303540E880.png
Zapatta
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Did you try Google search for 2846-8 SC, Cal. 501.? There must be something..
 
Y
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Zapatta Zapatta
Did you try Google search for 2846-8 SC, Cal. 501.? There must be something..

when I do it comes up with so many similar watches but never these ones shown in my photos. That’s why I question if it’s real but I can’t do much since I already purchased
 
X350 XJR
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Yes it's genuine, ca 1958. Unfortunately the dial has been refinished.
 
Zapatta
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Reference number (2846/2848) is written inside of the case back. Unfortunately, dial has been poorly redone.
 
Screenshot_20230115_222559.jpg
Y
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X350 XJR X350 XJR
Yes it's genuine, ca 1958. Unfortunately the dial has been refinished.

I assume this decreases its value right?
Would you be able to give me an estimated price I should’ve paid I now feel I overpaid
 
Y
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Zapatta Zapatta
Reference number (2846/2848) is written inside of the case back. Unfortunately, dial has been poorly redone.

thank you Zapatta for your help. Do you have an estimated price I should’ve paid for this watch? I think the answer might break my heart but I’d like to know if you can 😀
 
H
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Pass this one. İ really love 2846-2848. Specially two tone dial. But this is a bad redial. Buckle is not original. You can find many others for good prices with time.
 
Y
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H Hakantasova
Pass this one. İ really love 2846-2848. Specially two tone dial. But this is a bad redial. Buckle is not original. You can find many others for good prices with time.

Thank you for the advice. Unfortunately I already paid for this so I can’t pass. Can you explain why the dial is bad? I don’t know what to look for and why it’s bad. Please educate me 😀
 
josiahg52
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Rather than members supplying you with a punch list of all that's wrong with it, I found it much more helpful to study genuine watches and known redials to pick out the differences myself. Now, I'm much better at it than I was.
 
Davidt
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Why don’t you let us know what you paid?

The redial is poor as the quality and consistency of print isn’t there. A collector wouldn’t buy it at all I’m afraid. Value possibly around 250£/€/$.

That said, if you like it and didn’t pay too much it’s a fine daily beater. It’s simply the noob tax that most of us paid when we first started collecting vintage watches.
 
wagudc
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Y Yjamil123
thank you Zapatta for your help. Do you have an estimated price I should’ve paid for this watch? I think the answer might break my heart but I’d like to know if you can 😀

The dial makes up a significant portion of the value of the watch, but the dial is not the only issue. The case has been polished enough to remove all the original finish and edges, the movement looks a bit tired and dirty and there is pitting on the case as seen here:

x1539833-36b9b525f91813bbbef826ee4a871cde.jpg.pagespeed.ic.aEHZIaocxe.webp

The dial has uneven and overly thick text. The script is also wrong, it has a round S like in later 60s Seamasters where it should have a coat hook S, like on this dial (taken from a dealer's page);

IMG_0010.jpg
 
Y
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josiahg52 josiahg52
Rather than members supplying you with a punch list of all that's wrong with it, I found it much more helpful to study genuine watches and known redials to pick out the differences myself. Now, I'm much better at it than I was.

thank you for the advice Josiah I understand what you’re trying to say. I will do so 😀
 
Y
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Davidt Davidt
Why don’t you let us know what you paid?

The redial is poor as the quality and consistency of print isn’t there. A collector wouldn’t buy it at all I’m afraid. Value possibly around 250£/€/$.

That said, if you like it and didn’t pay too much it’s a fine daily beater. It’s simply the noob tax that most of us paid when we first started collecting vintage watches.

I paid about €550/£490/$595. So an overpay but as you said the noob tax. I will do my due diligence for the future thank you for being honest
 
Y
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wagudc wagudc
The dial makes up a significant portion of the value of the watch, but the dial is not the only issue. The case has been polished enough to remove all the original finish and edges, the movement looks a bit tired and dirty and there is pitting on the case as seen here:

x1539833-36b9b525f91813bbbef826ee4a871cde.jpg.pagespeed.ic.aEHZIaocxe.webp

The dial has uneven and overly thick text. The script is also wrong, it has a round S like in later 60s Seamasters where it should have a coat hook S, like on this dial (taken from a dealer's page);

IMG_0010.jpg

I see what you’re saying. Thank you sm for the help, it’s my fault for being sloppy with my first purchase and rushing it. Thank you for the examples and pictures too
 
wagudc
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Hopefully you didn't pay too much @Yjamil123. Is it possible to return the watch at this point? If not you have paid what we call the newbie tax. You have learned from the experience. Many of us here have made similar mistakes.

Don't be afraid to ask questions here before you buy in the future.
 
Y
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wagudc wagudc
Hopefully you didn't pay too much @Yjamil123. Is it possible to return the watch at this point? If not you have paid what we call the newbie tax. You have learned from the experience. Many of us here have made similar mistakes.

Don't be afraid to ask questions here before you buy in the future.

Hey there,

luckily I think I have time to refund my order, so I requested to do so. Thank you for the kindness and for everyone’s help as well, I will learn from my mistakes !
 
wagudc
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Y Yjamil123
Hey there,

luckily I think I have time to refund my order, so I requested to do so. Thank you for the kindness and for everyone’s help as well, I will learn from my mistakes !

Good news, and I should have said before: Welcome to the forum! I would watch the Private Sales section here, and this thread as well: https://omegaforums.net/threads/rec...-not-for-inquiries.1790/page-357#post-2112317
You won't be able to post in the sales subforums until you have 200 meaningful posts, but you can always send a private message to a seller. Good luck, and be patient. Sometimes it can take years to find the watch you are looking for.
 
B
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https://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/
I'm new at this as well. the site above will be helpful. There's a pdf that shows case number and caliber correct matching to the year and lot's of other information. It's a bit overwhelming but fun too. In case you didn't know, your dial (again, I'm still a newbie) might contain Radium - I just wanted to let you know. Some collectors seek it out, some don't care, some would not want it...just thought you should know.
 
JimInOz
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B Bikerider
https://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/
I'm new at this as well. the site above will be helpful. There's a pdf that shows case number and caliber correct matching to the year and lot's of other information. It's a bit overwhelming but fun too. In case you didn't know, your dial (again, I'm still a newbie) might contain Radium - I just wanted to let you know. Some collectors seek it out, some don't care, some would not want it...just thought you should know.

The redial has been done well after radium was banned from use as evidenced by the use of the round S script.
It may be tritium lume on the indexes, which is much less hazardous then radium.
 
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