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Help identifying reference number needed from newbie
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Nepomuceño
·You're going to need way better pictures. Help us help you.
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MtV
·It’s neither a 2576 nor a 2570. The former has much thicker lugs, the latter is a manual watch. Why not open (or have opened) the caseback and simply read the number on its inside?
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Pvt-Public
·. Why not open (or have opened) the caseback and simply read the number on its inside?
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barrelarbor
·Could it be 2937?
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Pvt-Public
·Could it be 2937?
Why not open (or have opened) the caseback and simply read the number on its inside?
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barrelarbor
·Why not open (or have opened) the caseback and simply read the number on its inside?
Wish I had the chance but it's someone else's watch. All that I have is the low-res photo I posted early on.
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Dan S
·Wish I had the chance but it's someone else's watch. All that I have is the low-res photo I posted early on.
The other question one might ask is why the reference matters to you so much. If you know the size and the material of the case, and you like the watch, then you know all you really need to know to get a rough value on it. You know it's automatic, you know it's not a chronometer. You can figure out the reference once you have it in hand.
The bigger issues for me based on that one photo are whether it's gold, gold-capped, or gold-filled. And of course one can't judge the condition at all from that photo.
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barrelarbor
·The other question one might ask is why the reference matters to you so much. If you know the size and the material of the case, and you like the watch, then you know all you really need to know to get a rough value on it. You know it's automatic, you know it's not a chronometer. You can figure out the reference once you have it in hand.
The bigger issues for me based on that one photo are whether it's gold, gold-capped, or gold-filled. And of course one can't judge the condition at all from that photo.
It's actually a watch that belonged to someone I personally look up to, not really a random piece that came across on any auction sites. Now that I will look out for 2937 to begin with. Thanks everybody for your kind help! Much appreciated.
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sheepdoll
·I want to know what made the divots between 9 and 10 o'clock. Are watches now used as chew toys?
The gold color can also come from florescent lighting which is green. Although I suspect capping is probably the case in this blur. (could not resit the pun.)
I have twin 2576s so have been playing about with omega vintage watch site https://www.omegawatches.com/vintage-watches and case references. Now if I could find an empty 2577 for my extra 351.
-j
The gold color can also come from florescent lighting which is green. Although I suspect capping is probably the case in this blur. (could not resit the pun.)
I have twin 2576s so have been playing about with omega vintage watch site https://www.omegawatches.com/vintage-watches and case references. Now if I could find an empty 2577 for my extra 351.
-j
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X350 XJR
··Vintage Omega Aficionado2937 is a Seamaster which yours "clearly" is not.
My gut tells me it's an American market watch.
F6516?
My gut tells me it's an American market watch.
F6516?
Edited:
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barrelarbor
·2937 is a Seamaster which yours "clearly" is not.
My gut tells me it's an American market watch.
F6516?
There's a good chance it's a bumper for the North American market. I have no idea if it's useful but from what I knew, it's pre circa 1956.
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Dan S
·It's actually a watch that belonged to someone I personally look up to, not really a random piece that came across on any auction sites. Now that I will look out for 2937 to begin with. Thanks everybody for your kind help! Much appreciated.
Context for questions (and even an introduction) is always welcome, especially for new members. It's not likely a ref 2937.
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