Help identifying a vintage OMEGA pocket watch

BrN · Jul 24, 2021

Hello,

I’d like to ask your help with the identification of a vintage OMEGA pocket watch. I am interested in three areas:
1 - identification of the watch.
2 - precision of the watch.
3 - any tips for a good vintage-watch repair shop (Austria would be preferred – I live in a neighbouring country).

I would greaty appreciate any tips regarding the age / type / series. I have not opened the watch as I have no tools or skills myself, and there are no antique watch-shops (with good reviews) nearby.

I inherited this watch from my grandfather 25 years ago. He probably bought them before WW2, possibly in Vienna. The watch was stored in his locker at least since 1970s, then in my desk since late 1990s.

Parameters
The dial is white-ish, the seconds dial has a nice shiny effect with small ridges. The hands are dark-blued, although this does not show well on the photos. The dimensions: diameter 47-48mm, thickness 7-8mm.

Condition
There is a light dent across the back lid – not so visible on the photos - and many common-wear scratches. The front glass has only minor scratches - although it feels more like plastic than glass. The dial is fine, the dark spots are just free-moving debree – I assume it is the broken-off coloring from the seconds dials, as some segments are partially missing.

Precision
I recently re-discovered them while moving. I kept them running for about two weeks. They gain approx. 40sec each day (sitting on a nightstand). I assume this is quite accurate considering the age.

Modest_Proposal · Jul 24, 2021

I will answer as best I can in order, then give my thoughts:

1. a. I suspect the case is made of nickel, but we'll need to see the inside of the caseback to be sure.

b. The bow of the watch appears to have been replaced and maybe the crown. This is common. Everything else on the exterior (hands, dial, case) appears correct. I notice a bit of degradation of the sub-seconds printing, so it may have been "cleaned" sometime in the past. But it's kept most of its character.

c. The watch looks to be from the 1930's. We can make a more precise estimation once you remove the case back and we can get a look at the serial number. Omega kept good records.

d. The color of the steel hands are due to a manufacturing process known as "blueing", to help with corrosion. They have the added benefit of being very pretty!

2. With a watch that old, you should not expect sub-minute accuracy over the week or in some cases over the day, even after it's been serviced. You'll find most vintage collectors on this forum are not too obsessed with the precision of their 50+ year old watches. They keep and use them for their special significance.

3. I can't help you there, sorry. However, I've heard some names thrown around on this forum.

Thoughts:

Don't run the watch extensively before it's been serviced. The thing likely hasn't been serviced since before you were born... If you don't want the mechanism to suffer excessive wear and tear, you'll need it oiled and cleaned. Watches typically need to be serviced every 6-10 years if you plan on using it regularly. If you just want it as a keep sake, or to wear on very special occasions, you probably don't have to worry.

BrN · Jul 24, 2021

Thank you for the very extensive and greatly structured answer! Much appreciated.

re my intentions
Thank you for the advice not to use the watch prior to a service - I will follow it. My goal is to have it properly cleaned and maintained, and then just have the watch near my bed - I like the ticking sound. Perhaps to take it with me on some special occasion. I am actually surprised by the precision, I expected something around 5min-per-day difference. 40sec is quite surprising.

re previous servicing
You are correct that the watch hasn't been serviced for decades. It is probably better so, as can be seen by the damage from previous rough servicing (I have attached few more detailed pics). We are a post communist country, so there was no attention to quality of service. The back lid is not fitting perfectly and there are definite dents from rough maintenance attempts. ALso the dial damage might come from some industrial cleaning product made in USSR.

re serial no
I could try to open the case back - would you suggest that as a simple task? Perhaps with a fine screwdriver I might be able to do so to see the SN inside. However if there is any risk of additional damage I would rather look for a professional.

I will browse the forum more to find any around - either in Vienna - I know there is an official Omega Service center there, or closer by here in Slovakia.

Modest_Proposal
I will answer as best I can in order, then give my thoughts:

Nepomuceño · Jul 24, 2021

I think this may be your model in a 1930 catalogue.

Modest_Proposal · Jul 24, 2021

B BrN
I could try to open the case back - would you suggest that as a simple task? Perhaps with a fine screwdriver I might be able to do so to see the SN inside. However if there is any risk of additional damage I would rather look for a professional.

I will browse the forum more to find any around - either in Vienna - I know there is an official Omega Service center there, or closer by here in Slovakia.

The bottom two pictures showcase the lip you want to use to pop it open. You might be able to pry it open with your fingernail, if it's not too tight. If you have to use a tool, it's important to wedge, rather than pry. It's less harmful to the case. I use a plastic knife.

Otherwise, a watchmaker can do it for you in a few seconds and hopefully wouldn't charge for it.

Modest_Proposal · Jul 24, 2021

Nepomuceño
I think this may be your model in a 1930 catalogue.

I suspect the watch you posted has an enamel dial, rather than the OP's metal dial. They are similar in design, though.

BrN · Jul 24, 2021

Great guess!
It seems to be the perfect match for the case and crown, even the font of the numbers. The only difference I can see is the style of the seconds-dial, plus there seems to be some text about 60sec mark on the poster that I do not have. But that might be just a slight variant from one year to another. I tried to make a photo from similar angle.

Nepomuceño
I think this may be your model in a 1930 catalogue.

BrN · Jul 24, 2021

Thanks for the tip - I will try this once the watch stops. I have wound it this morning, so perhaps tomorrow. I did test it just now with my fingernail, there was a bit of movement but then resistance. I will test the wiggle method with some plastic tool.

Modest_Proposal
You might be able to pry it open with your fingernail, if it's not too tight. If you have to use a tool, it's important to wedge, rather than pry. It's less harmful to the case. I use a plastic knife..

LesXL · Jul 24, 2021

Modest_Proposal
I suspect the watch you posted has an enamel dial, rather than the OP's metal dial. They are similar in design, though.

Indeed, here is mine with enamel dial. You could open it with a sharp swiss knife, and you should then have a second movement protection case.

Modest_Proposal · Jul 24, 2021

I will add that the bow looks to be distorted, so it might be original and was just bent from use. For a sentimental piece, that would be pretty special.

JimInOz · Jul 25, 2021

Modest_Proposal
...................................

b. The bow of the watch appears to have been replaced and maybe the crown. This is common...........

I think the bow and crown are original. Both have looks and wear consistent with long use.

Omega produced a huge array of pocket watches and an equal array of bow styles. I've seen this style a number of times and there are two very similar examples shown in AJTT.

I'm also inclined to believe the crown is original and is simply worn through to the base metal from winding.

To come to any concrete conclusions we need to see the insides which are easy to access with the correct tool and due care.

BrN · Jul 25, 2021

Hello again,

very interesting discussion, thank you for the tips and advice. I managed to open the back case. Probably due to the bend it did not move when trying it at the lip, but when I wiggled near the hinge joints - as there is a gap - it opened smoothly. The SN is 9452488. Photos attached. There seems to be some text scratched to the onside of the case, but it is not readable - visible on the last two photos.

Modest_Proposal
I will add that the bow looks to be distorted, so it might be original and was just bent from use. For a sentimental piece, that would be pretty special.

JimInOz · Jul 25, 2021

The scratches in the case mean nothing to anyone except the watchmakers who put them there many years ago.

The serial number dates your case to about 1936 to 1940 or so.

The lack of hallmarks indicates a nickel plated case as noted earlier by @Modest_Proposal.

To go deeper into the puzzle, you need to open the next case cover (the cuvette) to let us see the movement. It should open just like the caseback did, however, make sure you can see a seam around the cuvette and maybe a small area to fit a case knife to open it.

Let us know how you go.

LesXL · Jul 25, 2021

You can now lift the second movement cap to reveal the movement.

To date your watch, you need the movement serial number, rather than the case serial number.

You might all be able to see a movement reference under the mainspring.

You could with the movement serial number go to this fantastic website to date your watch and get some interesting additional information.

BrN · Jul 25, 2021

I opened the second lid (cuvette). It did not sit perfectly, as can be seen on the second and third picture, however the inside looks very clean. It popped back nicely, but that small difference remained. The inside of the second lid has a nice circular design brushed into it that reflects the light.

There are two numbers: 8576626 on the "body". Under the spring it was difficult to determine - it is still moving and it is quite small. My best guess is 38.5L.T1. I have included photos from multiple angles, perhaps somebody will have more luck figuring it out. I am not even sure what the format should be and where to expect letters and numbers. Please have a look.
@JimInOz @Modest_Proposal

LesXL · Jul 25, 2021

With the movement SN... You can go to the website link given... Movement is probably indeed the one you cited.

BrN · Jul 25, 2021

I did try, yet no results.

LesXL
With the movement SN... You can go to the website link given... Movement is probably indeed the one you cited.

Modest_Proposal · Jul 25, 2021

The movement's serial number is 8,576,626. According to an online database (https://www.bobswatches.com/omega/serial-numbers), that places it around 1934. What that means is that the movement was manufactured at that time. It could have been sold in a later year. But probably pretty close to that time.

38.5L.T1 is the movement designation. Here is a link to more information about it: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_38_5L_T1

The movement looks to be in relatively good condition for being almost 100 years old! Congrats!

Modest_Proposal · Jul 25, 2021

Also, JimInOz is probably right about the crown being original. I'm less sure about the bow. But as I mentioned earlier, I think it's possible, too.

BrN · Jul 25, 2021

Thank you all for the great help. You narrowed it down with extreme precision! Also thanks for the links with details about the mechanism. So, give-or-take I have about 85year old watch. I am amazed at the quality - with no maintenance for the past 50 years, sitting in the same position, it just runs with negligible deviation. I will not use it now, and will look for a quality antique watch-repair shop around to clean and oil it, so it would last another 100. This could take a while (weeks, months) - I will probably have to travel to Austria. But once done I will definitely update this thread with new photos. I greatly appreciate your advice.

re mechanism
The interior really looks very clean, contrasting the rather dirty outer case - as is seen on the first attached picture. Even though the lids appear not to be fitting exactly, they did a great job keeping the dirt out.

re bow
I agree the bow appears to be tampered with. On the front it is nice and round, on the back it looks either filed or hammered. It does not appear to have been broken, though. Some photos attached.

@Modest_Proposal @JimInOz

Modest_Proposal
The movement's serial number is...

The movement looks to be in relatively good condition for being almost 100 years old! Congrats!

Help identifying a vintage OMEGA pocket watch

BrN

Modest_Proposal

BrN

Nepomuceño

Modest_Proposal

Modest_Proposal

BrN

BrN

LesXL

Modest_Proposal

JimInOz

BrN

JimInOz

LesXL

BrN

LesXL

BrN

Modest_Proposal

Modest_Proposal

BrN

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