From The Archives: What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special?

[Robert-Jan]

Out of all the Speedmaster watches in my collection, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 is one of the pieces I appreciate most. Without making this article a love letter to the watch, let me explain several things that make the Speedmaster Calibre 321 incredibly special. For the price that you’ll need to pay for this watch, […]

Visit From The Archives: What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special? to read the full article.

 

[Sauzo]

I absolutely love my 321. I wear it daily. Just such a special feeling winding and putting on a watch made for ME kind of. 🥰

Edited: Sep 5, 2023

 

[Alex_TA]

Do I understand correctly that 321 is less accurate than 3861?

 

[ErichPryde]

Alex_TA

Do I understand correctly that 321 is less accurate than 3861?

Yes, that's correct.

 

[Sauzo]

My 321so far after almost 1.5 weeks hasn't lost any noticeable time for me. But yes, a 3861 is more accurate.

 

[Evitzee]

Pretty much spot on article by RJ except for the comment about requiring the 321 to be returned to Bienne for service because it needs watch repairers with specific experience on the 321 platform. That's just wrong and marketing BS. The 321 is a standard, simple column wheel chronograph movement which was made for decades and used by many brands, any half assed repairer can handle maintenance and repair of a 321 if allowed access to parts which Omega no longer allows. That's the reason the caliber needs to be sent back to Bienne, Omega wants to maintain the aura of "magic" to potential buyers. That's the way they want to play it and that's their choice, but it's disingenuous to claim it is a necessity because of its uniqueness or complexity.

But the watch is a joy to own and wear, certainly the best Speedmaster made since, well, the last 321 was made in the late sixties.

I don't agree about not going grey and getting on a list at your OB, at this stage it means you aren't likely to ever see the EW 321 on your wrist. To me it's worth the premium they are now selling for, but it's a personal decision. I paid a premium 18 months and after owning the watch I would do it all over again, no regrets. It's that good.

 

[Aroxx]

Evitzee

The 321 is a standard, simple column wheel chronograph movement which was made for decades and used by many brands, any half assed repairer can handle maintenance and repair of a 321 if allowed access to parts which Omega no longer allows.

You're not wrong of course. But as I was reading the article I started thinking maybe they do only want their best watchmakers controlled in Bienne working on these expensive halo watches. After seeing so many of the horror stories coming out of Omega service centers it's starting to make a little sense to me. Of course that reasoning for the policy would be an admission that their service centers are not up to par and can't be trusted with "higher-end" watches.

 

[Sauzo]

It's no different than Rolex refusing service on a watch that doesn't have 100% Rolex parts or has even been opened by someone other than Rolex. My AD told me when I sent 16570 to RSC Dallas, that if it has any parts not Rolex, they will close it up and send it back refusing to service it.

All these watch companies play games. Rolex is to watches what DeBeers is to diamonds. And I'm sure Omega is doing te same with Snoopys. But I do think 321 does a lot longer to build considering it's not a mechanized system of assembly like Rolex or Snoopy. They have to assemble the watch twice.

Also I see nothing wrong with Grey in my opinion but there is something special getting the call from the OB saying I have a surprise with your name on it.

Edited: Sep 5, 2023

 

[Evitzee]

Sauzo

It's no different than Rolex refusing service on a watch that doesn't have 100% Rolex parts or has even been opened by someone other than Rolex. My AD told me when I sent 16570 to RSC Dallas, that if it has any parts not Rolex, they will close it up and send it back refusing to service it.

Also I see nothing wrong with Grey in my opinion but there is something special getting the call from the OB saying I have a surprise with your name on it.

This is true about Rolex, if it has non Rolex parts from a previous intervention they won't touch it.

"Also I see nothing wrong with Grey in my opinion but there is something special IF YOU GET the call from the OB saying I have a surprise with your name on it"..... there, fixed it for you.

 

[spacemission]

The calls and the grey market are the same bs.

 

[Evitzee]

Aroxx

You're not wrong of course. But as I was reading the article I started thinking maybe they do only want their best watchmakers controlled in Bienne working on these expensive halo watches. After seeing so many of the horror stories coming out of Omega service centers it's starting to make a little sense to me. Of course that reasoning for the policy would be an admission that their service centers are not up to par and can't be trusted with "higher-end" watches.

If they did that with the new 321 production it might make sense. But why would they have to limit 321 parts to Omega parts account holders to keep them from repairing 321s from the 50's and 60's? Omega doesn't want any field repairs of 321 movements to be done anywhere but Bienne, which means more and more vintage 321s fall into disrepair. I can't see how that helps Omega long term.

 

[Watch my Whisky]

It’s special because they gave the Marketing team a huge budget.

 

[dsio]

Admittedly it’s skewed somewhat due to the fact that I have owned so many of them but the 321 is the movement I’ve had to take back to watchmakers after service for failing to meet expectations more than any other. Hour creep, pushers not engaging, various other issues relating to Chronograph components not being properly aligned. Simple it may be but the Cal 5xx rarely need a second go, for this reason I only use my good watchmaker that @watchyouwant uses for 321s.

 

[TexOmega]

My one and only 321 has a homemade spring(works well), so it's gotta be EASY to service these!😲

 

[pdxleaf]

From the archives:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/321-v-861-and-the-much-talked-about-cost-savings.149285/

Double assembly is better? https://omegaforums.net/threads/wha...r-calibre-321-so-special.149370/#post-2035832

New 321 is beautiful. But it's arguably not because 321 is a better movement.

 

[gearjockey]

I’m not in the market for one of these, but I do see one for around $3k more (asking price) than retail on C24.
https://www.chrono24.com/omega/omega-speedmaster-ed-white-cal-321-2023--id28747052.htm

 

[Indices]

Alex_TA

Do I understand correctly that 321 is less accurate than 3861?

Alex_TA

Do I understand correctly that 321 is less accurate than 3861?

Completely anecdotal; small sample also. My 321 is running at 4.7 s, beautifully consistent graph line over 90 days of testing, worn most days.

My 3861 is a solid as a rock 1.5 seconds per day, super consistent also.

 

[Evitzee]

gearjockey

I’m not in the market for one of these, but I do see one for around $3k more (asking price) than retail on C24.
https://www.chrono24.com/omega/omega-speedmaster-ed-white-cal-321-2023--id28747052.htm

You'll have import fees which can be steep in some countries, but these are out there for immediate purchase for those who really want one. It just comes down to the price one finds acceptable.

 

[gbesq]

Putting aside all of the marketing hype over this watch, I just can't help but ask whether this watch is really worth the retail premium and, worse, the secondary market premium. For those of you who have purchased one, do any of you have buyer's remorse? Is it really that good? Not that this should ever be a reason to purchase any watch, but do you really think that this model has - God forgive me - the potential to appreciate as an investment piece? Candidly, I can see it more or less holding its value as many Speedmaster iterations do, but beyond that I have my doubts.

 

[Sauzo]

gbesq

Putting aside all of the marketing hype over this watch, I just can't help but ask whether this watch is really worth the retail premium and, worse, the secondary market premium. For those of you who have purchased one, do any of you have buyer's remorse? Is it really that good? Not that this should ever be a reason to purchase any watch, but do you really think that this model has - God forgive me - the potential to appreciate as an investment piece? Candidly, I can see it more or less holding its value as many Speedmaster iterations do, but beyond that I have my doubts.

Totally worth it to me. Until you actually try one on, you won't know. On paper, it looks like another Speedy but once you put it on, it wears so good. Being 39.7 mm is nice and the bracelet is very comfortable. I got mine from my OB. Not sure about holding a premium but then again, I never really cared about that. More if I like the watch. I know this would be the last watch I'd sell if I had to sell my watches.