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Iggydang
·…or how I turned the ‘First Replica’ 3594.50 into a 145.012 “replica”, and why it’s (nearly!) the perfect Speedy.
I’ve had an interest in space and thought watches were cool since I was young. I had heard of the story of the Speedy's use from Mercury through Gemini and Apollo, it’s use all the way through to modern-day ISS EVAs, and had been drawn to it every time I saw one in a shop window. Naturally, when it came time to make my first big watch purchase, I instead bought the blue 2018-era Railmaster*.
*I think this era of Railmaster is one of the most interesting and enthusiast-focused watches Omega has made in recent times, and it’s a massive shame how that generation was overlooked and replaced by an Aqua Terra parts bin special. It being so overlooked was also how I was able to afford one, so I probably shouldn’t complain too much about it.
The striations on the dial that flash blue and bronze with the light never get old. Also, the Aqua Terra rubber does fit, even if the polished end links are a bit weird with the fully-brushed case.
I loved that watch so much that I decided my next watch had to be a Speedy. The only issue I had was - which one? I wanted the Pro case with the crown guards, so the various FOIS models were out. I wanted the hesalite crystal, so most new models were immediately out since they all seem to be mostly sapphire. My experience with the 8806 in the Railmaster was pushing me towards one of the new hesalite 3861s, but I just couldn’t get over the massive “Speedmaster” script being bigger than the “Professional” text below and unbalancing the dial in the regular black Moonwatch. Sometimes I’d be able to convince myself that it would be okay, and other times I knew it would be jumping out at me everytime I looked at it and causing me to regret the decision. I’d also need to find a spare display caseback from the sapphire models to swap out, which would add even more cost*.
*Yes, I know the Spiralwinder display caseback exists. It has the text on the outside bevel rather than the inside like the original Omega caseback. Yes, this is an oddly tiny detail to derail the entire purchase, but I think the inside text is much better looking than the outside text, the same way it is on their 861/1861 display casebacks. You should have an idea of how much value I place in tiny frankly irrelevant details at this point…
Next, I quickly looked at 321s before realising it was no longer 2005 and people were asking stupid money even for ones in awful condition. 145.022s were unfortunately out despite my love for their old-script dials - I like the aged tritium colour, but I love the glow of lume and old tritium simply wouldn’t last as long as modern SLN. I did toy with the idea of a 3572.50 for the display caseback and a very nicely-priced Galaxy Express 999 that appeared for sale in a local online marketplace, but the more modern 2000s dial and standard script just didn’t jump out at me the same way the 145.022s did.
I then chanced upon this post on OF and the associated Reddit post and I knew I had found what I was looking for. @mossrockss (the OP of both) was extremely helpful in sharing his experience with the videos made and the work required, but finding a newer AML 321 service dial at a good price was difficult, let alone a step dial made after the gates of Omega had closed to third parties. The plan was simple - find the most awful (cosmetically) 861 I could with a good movement and hopefully clean case, and do every step of the build one at a time.
After keeping an eye on eBay, I eventually picked up a 3594.50 from Japan as the cheapest way to get a new-ish 1861 with the pro case. It was in quite rough shape, with a dent on the metal bezel and the corrosion on the AML and hands that people often warn about as being possible liquid damage. The watch was however supposedly recently serviced and had been given a light polish, and all the less-than-deal parts were going to be replaced, so this was a great opportunity to revive a rather sad Speedy.
The watch as I received it - I didn’t have the tools to size the 1498/840 bracelet it came on, so I threw it on a spare vintage-esque leather strap. You can see the dent in the bezel at 90, but not the corrosion on the AML or the hands from this angle.
The plan was to turn it into a not-quite-Ed-White with a service 321 teardrop chrono hand (and a generic Speedy handset from CousinsUK), with the display caseback and black Base 1000 DON bezel from Spiralwinder completing the watch until the right dial popped up. I wanted the watch done before I visited Omega in Bienne, so brought it to a place called Ross Watch Repairs in London to do the work. Long story short, what was supposed to be done within a day took weeks as the subdial hands didn’t fit and somehow nobody there could adjust them, before eventually returning me the watch with a misaligned bezel, a binding (also misaligned) chronograph hand stopping the entire watch*, a massive gouge on the seconds subdial (somehow missed by everyone until I collected the watch), and to top it off a speck of dust on the minute subdial.
*A later watchmaker used the exact same parts and I haven’t had the binding issue since. I can only assume the minute hand was literally not pressed down enough on the cannon pinion to clear the chronograph hand, causing the fouling. Make of that what you will.
A picture sent to me by the watchmaker who installed the 321 dial showing just how deep the scratch was - you can also see the corrosion on the AML.
Needless to say, I don’t recommend them if you need any work done. We did go back and forth but they refused any responsibility for the damage as I had provided the parts, and presumably also held the hands of the technician that gouged the dial while he was working on the watch, being my fault. The obvious damage to the dial also meant that the dial swap plans had to be moved up. I had been looking at one on eBay that was supposedly picked up from a deceased watchmaker’s estate, but it was quite expensive compared to what the OP in the other thread had paid. Luckily, I spoke to the seller and offered him the same $900 that the other dial cost, and we had a deal.
I’ve already posted about the saga I had trying to find a watchmaker that could do the dial feet work in this earlier thread (https://omegaforums.net/threads/watchmakers-in-singapore-that-can-mod-a-321-service-dial.192970/) so you can look through that for that part in this story.
Eventually, I had the watch I had always wanted.
The chrono has the glamourous job of timing how long I’ve parked the car for - clearly the most useful watch complication. Strap is a FKM rubber with deployant clasp off one of the more recommended AliExpress stores whose name escapes me, which unfortunately ended up a bit big for my wrist. Also installed is the Spiralwinder DON ceramic bezel.
If you ask me, Omega got the Speedy Pro design right first time in the 60s and has never been able to replicate it since. Bracelet is a fully-brushed Forstner flat-link before my wallet recovers enough to get either the Apollo 11 50th with appropriate old-logo clasp or the ’57 flat link with microadjust.
The step dial isn’t very obvious, but it’s nice to know it’s there even if you don’t always see it. Strap is a Strap Atelier Buttero leather strap.
Are you really a Speedy owner if you don’t at least try an astronaut-spec one? Strap is the short Apollo Velcro from Kizzi with the Radial Project Apollo 15 radial bezel.
After wearing it for a while, the watch definitely isn’t perfect. The "adjusted" seconds subdial hand sits slightly lower than the other two, which bugs me. I could have used a hesalite 3861 as a base and only swapped the dial and caseback to get the better magnetic (I’ve had to de-magnetise it twice already) and water resistance, but I’d have issues when it came to service as I don’t know any Omega certified watchmakers in Singapore or any that I'd trust to service a coaxial at a reasonable price. I’ve also adjusted the movement to around ~2s a day, which is much better than I would have expected out of a non-COSC movement design from the 60s. All-in-all, I’m satisfied with the compromises that I made, and hopefully inspired more to go mod their Speedy!
Thanks for letting me share some of the enthusiasm for my first Speedy with everyone, and special thanks to those of you that made it through the ramblings of this post.
[Extras]
Full Parts List
3594.50 “First Replica” base
Omega 321 service Super-LumiNova teardrop chrono hand (bought from Swiss Limited Editions - you might be able to find a full set of SLN 321 hands for ease of installation but I was cheap and went only for the chrono)
Generic 1861 SLN handset and subdial hands
Omega 064PP2001002A (PP2001002A marked on dial) 321 SLN stepped service dial
Spiralwinder DON ceramic lumed bezel
Spiralwinder 1861 display caseback with engraving
Radial Project 60-second bezel insert (sans-bezel) with AliExpress 1861 spare bezel (sans-insert)
I can’t remember exactly how much everything cost, but it should have been less than $5k USD all-in (base watch, taxes, parts, work, shipping, etc). The dial was the biggest issue - step service dials are rare, but demand isn’t there so if you’re looking to do the same thing it’s a waiting game.
EDIT: removed the table with timegrapher results - didn't format correctly.
Yes, I do know that most eBay “services” involve someone checking to see if the watch is working or water-damaged and closing it back up, so it’s not worth anything. I believe the crystal has been replaced at some point in time as the Omega logo is perfectly level, so it’s likely seen a service at some point in its 27-year life. It’s also passed a pressure test and 1861 parts are plentiful so I’m happy to leave it for a bit, as the Delrin chrono brake will be coming out for the 861 metal part at the next service.
I’ve had an interest in space and thought watches were cool since I was young. I had heard of the story of the Speedy's use from Mercury through Gemini and Apollo, it’s use all the way through to modern-day ISS EVAs, and had been drawn to it every time I saw one in a shop window. Naturally, when it came time to make my first big watch purchase, I instead bought the blue 2018-era Railmaster*.
*I think this era of Railmaster is one of the most interesting and enthusiast-focused watches Omega has made in recent times, and it’s a massive shame how that generation was overlooked and replaced by an Aqua Terra parts bin special. It being so overlooked was also how I was able to afford one, so I probably shouldn’t complain too much about it.
I loved that watch so much that I decided my next watch had to be a Speedy. The only issue I had was - which one? I wanted the Pro case with the crown guards, so the various FOIS models were out. I wanted the hesalite crystal, so most new models were immediately out since they all seem to be mostly sapphire. My experience with the 8806 in the Railmaster was pushing me towards one of the new hesalite 3861s, but I just couldn’t get over the massive “Speedmaster” script being bigger than the “Professional” text below and unbalancing the dial in the regular black Moonwatch. Sometimes I’d be able to convince myself that it would be okay, and other times I knew it would be jumping out at me everytime I looked at it and causing me to regret the decision. I’d also need to find a spare display caseback from the sapphire models to swap out, which would add even more cost*.
*Yes, I know the Spiralwinder display caseback exists. It has the text on the outside bevel rather than the inside like the original Omega caseback. Yes, this is an oddly tiny detail to derail the entire purchase, but I think the inside text is much better looking than the outside text, the same way it is on their 861/1861 display casebacks. You should have an idea of how much value I place in tiny frankly irrelevant details at this point…
Next, I quickly looked at 321s before realising it was no longer 2005 and people were asking stupid money even for ones in awful condition. 145.022s were unfortunately out despite my love for their old-script dials - I like the aged tritium colour, but I love the glow of lume and old tritium simply wouldn’t last as long as modern SLN. I did toy with the idea of a 3572.50 for the display caseback and a very nicely-priced Galaxy Express 999 that appeared for sale in a local online marketplace, but the more modern 2000s dial and standard script just didn’t jump out at me the same way the 145.022s did.
I then chanced upon this post on OF and the associated Reddit post and I knew I had found what I was looking for. @mossrockss (the OP of both) was extremely helpful in sharing his experience with the videos made and the work required, but finding a newer AML 321 service dial at a good price was difficult, let alone a step dial made after the gates of Omega had closed to third parties. The plan was simple - find the most awful (cosmetically) 861 I could with a good movement and hopefully clean case, and do every step of the build one at a time.
After keeping an eye on eBay, I eventually picked up a 3594.50 from Japan as the cheapest way to get a new-ish 1861 with the pro case. It was in quite rough shape, with a dent on the metal bezel and the corrosion on the AML and hands that people often warn about as being possible liquid damage. The watch was however supposedly recently serviced and had been given a light polish, and all the less-than-deal parts were going to be replaced, so this was a great opportunity to revive a rather sad Speedy.
The plan was to turn it into a not-quite-Ed-White with a service 321 teardrop chrono hand (and a generic Speedy handset from CousinsUK), with the display caseback and black Base 1000 DON bezel from Spiralwinder completing the watch until the right dial popped up. I wanted the watch done before I visited Omega in Bienne, so brought it to a place called Ross Watch Repairs in London to do the work. Long story short, what was supposed to be done within a day took weeks as the subdial hands didn’t fit and somehow nobody there could adjust them, before eventually returning me the watch with a misaligned bezel, a binding (also misaligned) chronograph hand stopping the entire watch*, a massive gouge on the seconds subdial (somehow missed by everyone until I collected the watch), and to top it off a speck of dust on the minute subdial.
*A later watchmaker used the exact same parts and I haven’t had the binding issue since. I can only assume the minute hand was literally not pressed down enough on the cannon pinion to clear the chronograph hand, causing the fouling. Make of that what you will.
Needless to say, I don’t recommend them if you need any work done. We did go back and forth but they refused any responsibility for the damage as I had provided the parts, and presumably also held the hands of the technician that gouged the dial while he was working on the watch, being my fault. The obvious damage to the dial also meant that the dial swap plans had to be moved up. I had been looking at one on eBay that was supposedly picked up from a deceased watchmaker’s estate, but it was quite expensive compared to what the OP in the other thread had paid. Luckily, I spoke to the seller and offered him the same $900 that the other dial cost, and we had a deal.
I’ve already posted about the saga I had trying to find a watchmaker that could do the dial feet work in this earlier thread (https://omegaforums.net/threads/watchmakers-in-singapore-that-can-mod-a-321-service-dial.192970/) so you can look through that for that part in this story.
Eventually, I had the watch I had always wanted.
After wearing it for a while, the watch definitely isn’t perfect. The "adjusted" seconds subdial hand sits slightly lower than the other two, which bugs me. I could have used a hesalite 3861 as a base and only swapped the dial and caseback to get the better magnetic (I’ve had to de-magnetise it twice already) and water resistance, but I’d have issues when it came to service as I don’t know any Omega certified watchmakers in Singapore or any that I'd trust to service a coaxial at a reasonable price. I’ve also adjusted the movement to around ~2s a day, which is much better than I would have expected out of a non-COSC movement design from the 60s. All-in-all, I’m satisfied with the compromises that I made, and hopefully inspired more to go mod their Speedy!
Thanks for letting me share some of the enthusiasm for my first Speedy with everyone, and special thanks to those of you that made it through the ramblings of this post.
[Extras]
Full Parts List
3594.50 “First Replica” base
Omega 321 service Super-LumiNova teardrop chrono hand (bought from Swiss Limited Editions - you might be able to find a full set of SLN 321 hands for ease of installation but I was cheap and went only for the chrono)
Generic 1861 SLN handset and subdial hands
Omega 064PP2001002A (PP2001002A marked on dial) 321 SLN stepped service dial
Spiralwinder DON ceramic lumed bezel
Spiralwinder 1861 display caseback with engraving
Radial Project 60-second bezel insert (sans-bezel) with AliExpress 1861 spare bezel (sans-insert)
I can’t remember exactly how much everything cost, but it should have been less than $5k USD all-in (base watch, taxes, parts, work, shipping, etc). The dial was the biggest issue - step service dials are rare, but demand isn’t there so if you’re looking to do the same thing it’s a waiting game.
EDIT: removed the table with timegrapher results - didn't format correctly.
Yes, I do know that most eBay “services” involve someone checking to see if the watch is working or water-damaged and closing it back up, so it’s not worth anything. I believe the crystal has been replaced at some point in time as the Omega logo is perfectly level, so it’s likely seen a service at some point in its 27-year life. It’s also passed a pressure test and 1861 parts are plentiful so I’m happy to leave it for a bit, as the Delrin chrono brake will be coming out for the 861 metal part at the next service.
