Flightmaster Consideration - Thoughts?

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I’m looking for some help on a Flightmaster. I’ve wanted one for a while, and prices have steadily climbed like most everything the past few years. I’m not looking for a perfect example, which this is clearly not, so overall condition isn’t my largest concern. I wouldn’t have an issue sending to Omega for a restoration. Just want to see if this one is even worth it. Obvious items I recognize:

- Seller states that this is a 145.013, which would make this transitional, but is the dial correct for that? I haven’t seen the 3/6/9 line dots on a transitional with the sub dial ‘3m’ font the way it is.
- Obvious heavy wear, and polish, but any other totally off case issues?
- Dial looks like it had a bad relume at some point
- Comes on a 1098, which wouldn’t be original. Does the bracelet seem authentic?
- Incorrect replacement reset pusher

What else am I missing? The Flightmaster is an awesome watch, but don’t want enthusiasm to get in the way of a potential Franken-master.
 
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I am looking for a nice Flightmaster myself and I wouldn't even consider this one. It is polished so much it looks like a pebble from a river plus the other problems you mentioned.
 
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I’ m no where near what i would consider myself an expert, but agree, this satisfies no boxes
 
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I was pretty much 100% in agreement to begin with. And first instinct should be the one you follow. Most likely too much removed from original to warrant the high restoration cost
 
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As in, which method did they use? 🍿
Wear does not equal polish. Look at how sharp the notches in the case back are. Major clue.
 
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Wear does not equal polish. Look at how sharp the notches in the case back are. Major clue.

I would tend to agree that the case back looks less polished, perhaps instead merely “worn” as you call it. Notice in particular the dings, nicks, and scratches, and how the edges of the case notches are variously dinged round or still straight, but the nooks of angles crisp (because what could get in those nooks?):





But casebacks need not be “polished” when instead the more visible portions of the watch are the intended target of “sprucing up.”

As with the caseback, “wear” takes the form of dings, scratches, and perhaps some un-uniform softening of points (that stick out and get rounded) or un-uniform and sporadic softening of an edge here and there.

Compare that with the OP’s posted watch case itself, the “edges” (if they can be called that anymore), are uniformly rounded off, but importantly (1) to include rounding at even the protected nooks between angle changes, and (2) unlike the caseback the lack of scratches, dings, and the like:




Whereas, here is a NOS case’s edge work:




Whatever one chooses to call a case that is now uniformly marble-smooth at all edges and even recessed nooks, where it was once before a razors edge, that is this watch. Calling it “polishing” or “wear” is perhaps neither here nor there.

But to me, the “wear” to the case back instead emphasizes a contrast against a case that has been polished.
 
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I want somebody to explain to me how this is over polished.

The edges of the case look like they are melted.
 
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The edges and case look crappy because the pictures are taken with a potato lens iPhone 3g and processed 17 times being filtered through the internet. There simply is not enough resolution in these pictures to make a determination. This is the kind of untouched, beaten up watch that I search for. Comparing it to a “NOS” means nothing. This is a used watch. The real clue is the notches in the case back and the crystal sitting flush the way they are supposed to.
 
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I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole but you do you man. I like crisp edges on my watches.
 
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The edges and case look crappy because the pictures are taken with a potato lens iPhone 3g and processed 17 times being filtered through the internet. There simply is not enough resolution in these pictures to make a determination. … The real clue is the notches in the case back and the crystal sitting flush the way they are supposed to.

So there “simply is not enough resolution in these pictures to make a determination…” of only the upper case, but the very same pictures of the caseback are determinative?

We can all agree these photos aren’t great. But nothing about the image processing causes the upper case “edges” to uniformly appear to have the quality of a stick of butter



And that I thought quite obviously was the relevance of the photos of a NOS case.
 
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Never said the edges are sharp. Only said the case hasn’t been polished.
 
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I also think you should hold out for a better example. Sadly, most of the Flightmasters being offered online have been polished to some degree, losing the sharp edges people have been talking about here - but don't let that push you into accepting something you will later regret.

For example I bought this one on eBay a couple of years ago. It has minor marks but the original brushing and sharp edges are still clear. The only replacement is the crystal. Just be patient.

 
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Never said the edges are sharp. Only said the case hasn’t been polished.
That case has been badly polished. Sharp steel edges don't just melt.
 
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I also think you should hold out for a better example. Sadly, most of the Flightmasters being offered online have been polished to some degree, losing the sharp edges people have been talking about here - but don't let that push you into accepting something you will later regret.

For example I bought this one on eBay a couple of years ago. It has minor marks but the original brushing and sharp edges are still clear. The only replacement is the crystal. Just be patient.


That is what I am looking for. Nice watch!
 
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Two watches, one is 50 years old the other 5. Neither have been polished.
 
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Two watches, one is 50 years the other 5. Neither have been polished.
Great. The Flightmaster the OP is considering has been badly polished though.

Here is my 46 year old Speedmaster MK 4.5. It has been polished by someone who knew what they were doing.

 
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Great. The Flightmaster the OP is considering has been badly polished though.

Here is my 46 year old Speedmaster MK 4.5. It has been polished by someone who knew what they were doing.

Looks like Tanner Moorehouse got a hold of it🤮.
 
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Seller states that this is a 145.013, which would make this transitional, but is the dial correct for that? I haven’t seen the 3/6/9 line dots on a transitional with the sub dial ‘3m’ font the way it is.

Since I’ve paused over this thread a bit longer, this is worth hashing out.

As I understand the Flightmaster Only fellas, these transitional 911s in the thin Mark 1 case should either:

(1) have no lume plots, a flat-top ‘3’ in the hour totalizer, etc., and Serial numbers range: 31.636.00x to 31.636.4xx (clearly inapplicable to the OPs posted watch)

or

(2) similar to the standard ST 145.026 dial (like the watch in question), but without the two luminous tritium dots on either side of the index at 12 o’clock (unlike the watch in question) with the few known versions being in the 31.636.31x, 31.636.39x range

This watches’ later 911 movement at 31.639.712 would seem to place the movement past the Mark 1 case transition period, but here sits in a Mark 1 case.

Meanwhile, the dial doesn’t jive with what I understand of the Mark 1/911 transition period, and instead I think is consistent with the dial of post-transitional models.

So, both the movement number and 911 dial together arent what I’d expect to see in this Mark 1 case