Does this C Case look okay?

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What are your thoughts about this one?

Does it look all original?

 
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I'd prefer some good high resolution photos, but nothing is jumping out at me as wrong except for the bracelet which is obviously not for that watch.
 
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From those photos, I'm concerned about the condition of the case. I am seeing signs of dings that have been heavily polished-over with a buffing wheel. I'd like to see photos of the watch from angles that allow me to see the finish of the top surface, the sharpness of edges, etc. If the seller won't provide them, I'd just move on. I don't generally waste time on watches if I'm not able to judge condition.
 
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From those photos, I'm concerned about the condition of the case. I am seeing signs of dings that have been heavily polished-over with a buffing wheel. I'd like to see photos of the watch from angles that allow me to see the finish of the top surface, the sharpness of edges, etc. If the seller won't provide them, I'd just move on. I don't generally waste time on watches if I'm not able to judge condition.
Thank you for spotting this. I'll take your advice and move on.
 
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I'm also looking at another one. Any thoughts on this? Are the cyclops original to the watch? Thanks.

 
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The case on that one also looks pretty bad, IMO. It's possible that we may have different standards.
 
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It’s okay posting photos but you don’t say, and it would help us help you, where you’ve seen the watch, what you’ve been told and what the asking price is - which is relevant.

If it’s $200, then the advice would be quite different than if it’s $1200.

The second one is a tired mess; the movement and case are dirty, clearly not been serviced in living memory, the bracelet looks stretched and one link has been fitted upside down but appears to be genuine.

I’m not convinced by the first bracelet and it may be a cheaper aftermarket model - it looks to be of a different age to the watch.
 
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I’m not convinced by the first bracelet and it may be a cheaper aftermarket model - it looks to be of a different age to the watch.
First bracelet struck me as fake as well.
 
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Refinished dial on the first one, too.
First one:


Second one:
 
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Second one has correct 1040 brick bracelet and endlinks

When evaluating case on these need focused views from side to see the sharpness of case with the narrow polished band separating the top and sides of case. It’s not visible from top views. Many selllers don’t provide this view. It’s often gone with polishing. Need to see this to evaluate sharpness of case. Gold or Gold cap cases are usually softer than SS. Some examples see black arrows
 
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The case on that one also looks pretty bad, IMO. It's possible that we may have different standards.
Perhaps, but mainly it's because I am familiar enough with what the C shape case contours should look like in the original state.
 
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First bracelet struck me as fake as well.
I just assume any non 1040 bracelet is an "aftermarket" one and yes I can see the looseness of the second bracelet too. It'd be nice to get it with the right bracelet but I generally prefer straps anyway so that's not a dealbreaker.
 
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Refinished dial on the first one, too.
First one:


Second one:
Thanks for spotting this. Is it because the font is different, or it's too far from the edge? Is the SWISS MADE font always consistent?
 
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Second one has correct 1040 brick bracelet and endlinks

When evaluating case on these need focused views from side to see the sharpness of case with the narrow polished band separating the top and sides of case. It’s not visible from top views. Many selllers don’t provide this view. It’s often gone with polishing. Need to see this to evaluate sharpness of case. Gold or Gold cap cases are usually softer than SS. Some examples see black arrows
That is very helpful. Thank you for the pics of the original bevel so I have a better idea of what an unpolished example should look like. Hmm I'm not sure I can tell with the photos of the two watches above.
 
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When set below the 6 marker, the Swiss Made positioning is generally centred directly below with last last S slightly below the marker.
 
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When set below the 6 marker, the Swiss Made positioning is generally centred directly below with last last S slightly below the marker.
Ah, I see. Thank you for the explanation!

Because the rest of the dial of that watch looks okay...
 
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2 references to learn about C case Constellations:

Desmonds essay- educational and very entertaining
https://omega-constellation-collect...12/constellation-c-shape-omegas-child-of.html

OF thread- see lots of nice examples OF members
 
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2 references to learn about C case Constellations:

Desmonds essay- educational and very entertaining
https://omega-constellation-collect...12/constellation-c-shape-omegas-child-of.html

OF thread- see lots of nice examples OF members
Thank you for the reference articles. Yes delicious looking pics in that thread!