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blufinz52
··Hears dead people, not watch rotors.I don't understand why someone would use Jomashop for a $5K+ watch. Much better off going through Omega or a boutique and spend the extra few hundred bucks. JMO.
Dial print quality New Seamaster
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Fled
·If the dial printing looks fine at normal viewing distance it's not defective, imo. Perhaps the dial manufacturer has used a different process and it still passes Omega's quality standard. (There are reasons they don't enclose loupes anymore on standard models.). If a watch works as intended and looks good to my naked eye that is all that matters, how it looks under 10x magnification is not ivery mportant unless I'm are paying for true hand made quality, say Roger Smith. Omega is mass produced. OP says he was happy with the watch until he louped it, he can send it back and get a refund, but maybe this is the new standard.
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gbesq
·I don't understand why someone would use Jomashop for a $5K+ watch. Much better off going through Omega or a boutique and spend the extra few hundred bucks. JMO.
The savings can be a great deal more than a few hundred dollars in many cases. I saved more than 3k off the $10,500 retail price on my JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon. The watch was BNIB with the protective film still in place and included the outer and inner boxes, the hang tag, manuals, accessories, etc., all new and untouched, AND it included the manufacturer’s 8 year warranty which JLC accepted when I registered the watch online at their website. It pays to shop around.
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rendo
··faux legendThe white dot right above the "O" alone would catch my eye every time. I would try to return it if you can.
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sheepdoll
·+1 for the whole thread.
Goes to show how difficult dial making can be.
I wonder if they still use a pantograph? Or if they have more modern Laser/EDM systems which can be subjective to the x/y leadscrew.
As noted one of my responcibilities at apple was font quality. (Mostly making sure fonts were there or had bugs that could crash or hang the printer.) Still they have the 'blue fuzz' and hints becouse there are people who are really sensitive to the slightest curvature of the edges.
Hamburgifons was a string used to test for serifs and kerning.
I recently downloaded a new copy of Font Forge. That program has evolved nicely in the last 25 or 30 yeaars. Much easier than graph paper and Adobe Illustrator.
Goes to show how difficult dial making can be.
I wonder if they still use a pantograph? Or if they have more modern Laser/EDM systems which can be subjective to the x/y leadscrew.
As noted one of my responcibilities at apple was font quality. (Mostly making sure fonts were there or had bugs that could crash or hang the printer.) Still they have the 'blue fuzz' and hints becouse there are people who are really sensitive to the slightest curvature of the edges.
Hamburgifons was a string used to test for serifs and kerning.
I recently downloaded a new copy of Font Forge. That program has evolved nicely in the last 25 or 30 yeaars. Much easier than graph paper and Adobe Illustrator.
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Aroxx
·I'm interested to see some other modern Seamaster macro shots to compare now. Anybody who has one want to bust out their loupe?
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Annapolis
·I'm interested to see some other modern Seamaster macro shots to compare now. Anybody who has one want to bust out their loupe?
Using a Carson digital microscope (of the $40 on Amazon, bought for my son during COVID variety). Looks pretty clean to my eyes, but I'm sure there are some imperfections there.
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Annapolis
·In looking at the OP's pic again, I'm noticing aberrations in the laser-cut waves on the dial, on the dial surface itself, on the hands... I'm starting to wonder how much of what we're seeing are just artifacts of digital image sharpening---digital noise, essentially. (Most phone cameras default to auto-enhance and sharpening---you can't always disable those effects.) OP, did you see this roughness directly through the loupe, or did it only become visible in the pic?
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banshee
·I'm interested to see some other modern Seamaster macro shots to compare now. Anybody who has one want to bust out their loupe?
I'm interested to see some other modern Seamaster macro shots to compare now. Anybody who has one want to bust out their loupe?
Yep, that’s what I wanted to see.
Funny to read that members (collectors I presume) tell me to drop the Loupe and assume that watch of this class isn’t meant to have decent font printing… really??? I doubt you guys don’t check your watches out with a loupe.
I’ve had over 30 omegas over the last 5 years: mostly vintage, some neo vintage (early 2000s). It’s first time I encounter this problem. Not gonna stop loving the brand anyway, just wanted to hear about other experiences. Maybe I got unlucky, one of 100,000, who knows…
Jomashop or not, not sure how that’s relevant. The watch left the Omega factory. Had I bought it in an Omega boutique, same thing could’ve happened… I’d never go shopping for a brand new watch armed with a loupe, assuming the dial might be bad, looking for faults.
Will let you know how Omega responds. That’s one thing that really matters to me.
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josiahg52
·I have a 9x loupe and a green Seamaster. Mine looks fine to me.
I brought a 3x loupe with me when I bought this watch at the AD so I could read the serial numbers easier. Of course, I looked at other parts of the watch, too.
I brought a 3x loupe with me when I bought this watch at the AD so I could read the serial numbers easier. Of course, I looked at other parts of the watch, too.
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gbesq
·banshee, just curious, have you removed the plastic film, hangtag, etc. from the watch since you received it?
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josiahg52
·9x Carl Zeiss loupe and Samsung Note 10+:
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McBeardy
·Yep, that’s what I wanted to see.
Funny to read that members (collectors I presume) tell me to drop the Loupe and assume that watch of this class isn’t meant to have decent font printing… really??? I doubt you guys don’t check your watches out with a loupe.
I’ve had over 30 omegas over the last 5 years: mostly vintage, some neo vintage (early 2000s). It’s first time I encounter this problem. Not gonna stop loving the brand anyway, just wanted to hear about other experiences. Maybe I got unlucky, one of 100,000, who knows…
Jomashop or not, not sure how that’s relevant. The watch left the Omega factory. Had I bought it in an Omega boutique, same thing could’ve happened… I’d never go shopping for a brand new watch armed with a loupe, assuming the dial might be bad, looking for faults.
Will let you know how Omega responds. That’s one thing that really matters to me.
I always thought (& previously was the case when I used them) Joma warrenty is only for Joma & not the manufactures warranty.
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Annapolis
·Do you have the Omega warranty card? I’d be (very pleasantly) surprised if Omega offered any consideration if you don’t. That’s usually one of the tradeoffs of going gray: you forgo warranty service and you also forgo the kind of customer service you might get via an OB or AD. You’ll probably have more luck getting your money back from Joma.
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banshee
·banshee, just curious, have you removed the plastic film, hangtag, etc. from the watch since you received it?
Yes, I did remove all stickers and tags last night when I received it. This morning I had the awkward loupe moment haha
I had never imagined I could face this problem.
@Annapolis there is no one warranty card. Card with serial number yes.
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banshee
·
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Annapolis
·Yes, I did remove all stickers and tags last night when I received it. This morning I had the awkward loupe moment haha
I had never imagined I could face this problem.
@Annapolis there is no one warranty card. Card with serial number yes.
Alas. It definitely can’t hurt to ask—but I worry you may be stuck with this. Hopefully Joma does right by you, but I don’t know that they’re contractually obligated to do anything. FWIW, such minor (loupe-required) issues would not turn me off from buying a watch.
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Marte
·Omega would never let a 'second' go out the door. It would be scrapped.
Having worked in manuf. for a long time, the offending part would get removed and set aside for reworking whilst a different new part would get used. If the reworking of the part was not successful or was deemed less cost effective than just scrapping it then yes it would get scrapped.
But I agree it makes no sense to sell seconds. People ask if my company ever sells "seconds" I always reply "Why?, we make them from scratch so rectifying a fault is simple, no need to ever sell seconds.
But back to the OP, it doesn't look the best to be honest. I normally gloss over people obsessing over zoomed in photos, but that looks sloppy.
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