JwRosenthal
·So if you are one of those Rolex owners that takes a Pantone chart to lume, turns your nose up as service parts, and measures lugs with a micrometer- you may want to leave now.
I am a vintage watch guy, I have a few newer pieces in my collection but generally about 80% of my collection is pre 1970. I love acrylic- I love the warmth, the depth, the distortion and the shimmer they give everything under them. Yes, sapphire is a superior material- it’s harder, scratch resistant and can provide a greater depth rating for water resistance (although Bulova had no problem getting to 666ft with acrylic).
I recently got a 14060 Submariner.
I never really wanted a sub, I have owned my GMT for almost 20 years and felt they were too similar to justify- not to mention the sub is just so....black. But I got it from a fellow member here in a trade deal and I realized that I really like this watch- it is very different from the GMT and I love the simplicity of the dial, the symmetry of no date, and perfect balance on the wrist- it really is the epitome of a classic dive watch.
But something kept me from loving it- the crystal.
I have one other sapphire crystal Rolex and that’s my 14000 Airking- I love the watch, but looking at it side-by-side with my OPD wearing it’s thick acrylic, it lacks the shimmer, sparkle and 3-dimensional pop that the acrylic gives. I know the dial has the shimmer as I can see it in some light- but the crystal is just so flat, lifeless and sterile.
So I stumbled upon a vendor on eBay selling aftermarket crystals and parts for obscure dive watches- I’ve seen this seller’s parts before and rather than scoff at “fake parts” as some collectors may, I appreciate him filling the void where the maker is no longer extant (like bezels for Depthomatics) or the company never made the part (like an acrylic crystal for a 14060- which never existed from Rolex).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401715054430
I did my research and surprisingly found nothing on these crystals in the wild. I found several people asking if an acrylic could be fitted to a 14060 and the resounding reply on the forums was “why would you want to- just buy a 5513”. I get that, but not all of us can afford a 5513 and I got lucky to even get my watch, so have to make the best of it.
I took the plunge and ordered one- I figure at worst I lost $80 and could put the factory crystal back in. I did more reading and watched tutorials on changing the crystal on a sub and all the forums seem to make it seem like some black art- don’t even think about it unless you have factory tools, only have Rolex change that crystal or it will implode! You will void any warranty....umm, warranty has been up for about 30 years.
Well, I can report that there is no black art, it’s incredibly easy and like all things older Rolex, it was well engineered to be easily serviceable.
Bezel easily comes off with a case-back tool (be mindful of the click wire)
Carefully work a razor blade around the retainer to slowly pry it up evenly
Sapphire pops out with the casket, the acrylic presses right in snugly without need for a gasket- reassemble.
Now that’s a dome!
Night shot reflecting street lights in that giant orb
sunshine
The only downside is the dome is like a fisheye and makes photos tough without seeing the whole world reflected in it
The acrylic is sensational. The indices pop unlike under the sapphire where they seemed almost flat- you see their applied depth and the black dial appears deeper black. The slight distortion of the dome makes the indices actually appear slightly larger which is something I felt was amiss before- they seemed a little small for the surface area of the dial.
The most significant visual difference is tough to convey but it’s one of focal point. Like in photography when we use a bit of vignetting or shading to bring the eye into the focal point of the image (yes, we steer you to see what we want you to see), the dome brings the eye into the center- then the eye moves around the dial. With the flat sapphire, the dial seemed like it was just a large expanse to the edges and the eye kind of wandered.
Unlike cheap domes, this one doesn’t give the fried egg appearance at the edges. Yes, there is edge distortion on axis which is part of the charm, but not looking strait on.
I went from liking this watch to loving it. Best part- it’s totally reversible.
I am a vintage watch guy, I have a few newer pieces in my collection but generally about 80% of my collection is pre 1970. I love acrylic- I love the warmth, the depth, the distortion and the shimmer they give everything under them. Yes, sapphire is a superior material- it’s harder, scratch resistant and can provide a greater depth rating for water resistance (although Bulova had no problem getting to 666ft with acrylic).
I recently got a 14060 Submariner.
I never really wanted a sub, I have owned my GMT for almost 20 years and felt they were too similar to justify- not to mention the sub is just so....black. But I got it from a fellow member here in a trade deal and I realized that I really like this watch- it is very different from the GMT and I love the simplicity of the dial, the symmetry of no date, and perfect balance on the wrist- it really is the epitome of a classic dive watch.
But something kept me from loving it- the crystal.
I have one other sapphire crystal Rolex and that’s my 14000 Airking- I love the watch, but looking at it side-by-side with my OPD wearing it’s thick acrylic, it lacks the shimmer, sparkle and 3-dimensional pop that the acrylic gives. I know the dial has the shimmer as I can see it in some light- but the crystal is just so flat, lifeless and sterile.
So I stumbled upon a vendor on eBay selling aftermarket crystals and parts for obscure dive watches- I’ve seen this seller’s parts before and rather than scoff at “fake parts” as some collectors may, I appreciate him filling the void where the maker is no longer extant (like bezels for Depthomatics) or the company never made the part (like an acrylic crystal for a 14060- which never existed from Rolex).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401715054430
I did my research and surprisingly found nothing on these crystals in the wild. I found several people asking if an acrylic could be fitted to a 14060 and the resounding reply on the forums was “why would you want to- just buy a 5513”. I get that, but not all of us can afford a 5513 and I got lucky to even get my watch, so have to make the best of it.
I took the plunge and ordered one- I figure at worst I lost $80 and could put the factory crystal back in. I did more reading and watched tutorials on changing the crystal on a sub and all the forums seem to make it seem like some black art- don’t even think about it unless you have factory tools, only have Rolex change that crystal or it will implode! You will void any warranty....umm, warranty has been up for about 30 years.
Well, I can report that there is no black art, it’s incredibly easy and like all things older Rolex, it was well engineered to be easily serviceable.
Bezel easily comes off with a case-back tool (be mindful of the click wire)
Carefully work a razor blade around the retainer to slowly pry it up evenly
Sapphire pops out with the casket, the acrylic presses right in snugly without need for a gasket- reassemble.
Now that’s a dome!
Night shot reflecting street lights in that giant orb
sunshine
The only downside is the dome is like a fisheye and makes photos tough without seeing the whole world reflected in it
The acrylic is sensational. The indices pop unlike under the sapphire where they seemed almost flat- you see their applied depth and the black dial appears deeper black. The slight distortion of the dome makes the indices actually appear slightly larger which is something I felt was amiss before- they seemed a little small for the surface area of the dial.
The most significant visual difference is tough to convey but it’s one of focal point. Like in photography when we use a bit of vignetting or shading to bring the eye into the focal point of the image (yes, we steer you to see what we want you to see), the dome brings the eye into the center- then the eye moves around the dial. With the flat sapphire, the dial seemed like it was just a large expanse to the edges and the eye kind of wandered.
Unlike cheap domes, this one doesn’t give the fried egg appearance at the edges. Yes, there is edge distortion on axis which is part of the charm, but not looking strait on.
I went from liking this watch to loving it. Best part- it’s totally reversible.
This website may earn commission from Ebay sales.