Breitling acquires Universal Geneve

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Still can't believe this: In a recent video call, Breitling’s chief executive, Georges Kern, unwrapped the story, saying the company had invested “around 60 million Swiss francs” ($70.5 million) for the rights to produce watches with the Universal Genève name and for access to the company’s archive.
 
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Still can't believe this: In a recent video call, Breitling’s chief executive, Georges Kern, unwrapped the story, saying the company had invested “around 60 million Swiss francs” ($70.5 million) for the rights to produce watches with the Universal Genève name and for access to the company’s archive.
I spent most of my career in Consumer Package Goods. In every company I worked for, there was always a portfolio of harvest brands, that were consistent sellers, beloved by the public, or a declining niche. These brands never got support. While working for one company notorious for this practice, colleagues and I used to fantasize about buying the whole portfolio and driving it with proper investment. Breitling must have done the numbers. UG brand equity is strong as pointed out in the NYT article. Lets see.
 
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Really doubt that.
 
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Agree with @Larry S these guys dont make $70mm decisions on whims. They did the research and they have a plan. Hopefully they execute their vision and we are all happy to have UG back!
 
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Did a number of deals with PE so I’m fully aware of that but still don’t understand. What archive and what name…
 
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More news slowly trickling out.. Recently big boss of Breitling Kerns mentioned there will be new in-house movements made for these reflecting those of old and one thing I know may cause some grumbling is the price points will be higher than your average Breitling and more for luxury market consumers. I think they are angling to use UG brand to enter into the luxury market of watches. My best guess is they will start in the usd8-12k range.

Start savin up😉
 
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He also mentioned that chronographs will take a bit longer to be released, due to the complexity of their production. They will probably start with micro-rotors models. Let´s se!
 
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More news slowly trickling out.. Recently big boss of Breitling Kerns mentioned there will be new in-house movements made for these reflecting those of old and one thing I know may cause some grumbling is the price points will be higher than your average Breitling and more for luxury market consumers. I think they are angling to use UG brand to enter into the luxury market of watches. My best guess is they will start in the usd8-12k range.

Start savin up😉

I think that 8-12k price range would be a disaster starting point, price wise.
UG has a big history behind but it is unknown to the general public. Nobody is going to spend the same amount as the price of Rolex…without the brand being (re)established on the watch market. This would probably take several years (I’d say around 10). In this time, people get to know the brand and (maybe) are going to get comfortable to spend that kind of money on a UG.

They should start slowly, at around 3-4k usd and step by step build up the brand reputation and market value.
Edited:
 
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I think that 8-12k price range would be a disaster starting point, price wise.
UG has a big history behind but it is unknown to the general public. Nobody is going to spend the same amount as the price of Rolex…without the brand being (re)established on the watch market. This would probably take several years (I’d say around 10). In this time, people get to know the brand and (maybe) are going to get comfortable to spend that kind of money on a UG.

They should start slowly, at around 3-4k usd and step by step build up the brand reputation and market value.

I don't agree. I think they have to start upmarket if the want to be in that space. If they start at $3-4k, they'll always be labeled an entry level watch brand. Look at Longines or Tudor. They'll never be at the same level as Omega or Rolex.
 
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It took Omega and Rolex decades to reach that market value.

You have to compare UG with new (old) brands entering the market. Nobody is going to buy UG for 10k when they Omega and Rolex as alternatives.
The people that know UG and are willing to spend few thousand on their watches are very few.
 
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When you look at reincarnated car marques, they don’t set their aim low in the hope of one day going upmarket, which is nearly impossible to do.
No they aim high, they go for their target market, which is quite difficult enough to achieve successfully as it is.
Why do you think Toyota invented Lexus, Nissan cooked up Infinitely and others have done similar, it’s because brand recognition cuts both ways, I doubt anyone on the planet doesn’t know that Toyota is a car brand, but most people equate their brand virtues as being reliably, affordable quality, and entry level.
They created Lexus to break away from the confines of the Toyota brand perception, in order to gain market presence in a more profitable sales arena, as they could only reach so far with the Toyota brand with out trashing it’s currently very valuable brand values.
So with no real Japanese up market heritage brands to resurrect, they had to conjure one up.
And they’ve been by far the most successful of the Japanese manufacturers to do so, even though a great may of their offerings are really just tarted up Toyotas with a few more gizmos and an extremely butt ugly grill stuck on the front,
They didn’t start low, to do so would only cannibalise sale from their Toyota brand.

And most of the public out there don’t recognise that there are alternative brands in the same market sector as Rolex, let alone any thing above.
I assume the Breitling is not looking at selling to those people now, but possibly doing so in the future, as they reestablish the UG brand.
In the short term they will be relying on the enthusiast market to get the ball rolling……only time will tell if they’re right.
Edited:
 
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I think that 8-12k price range would be a disaster starting point, price wise.
UG has a big history behind but it is unknown to the general public. Nobody is going to spend the same amount as the price of Rolex…without the brand being (re)established on the watch market. This would probably take several years (I’d say around 10). In this time, people get to know the brand and (maybe) are going to get comfortable to spend that kind of money on a UG.

They should start slowly, at around 3-4k usd and step by step build up the brand reputation and market value.
I’d imagine some 3 hand models, simpler Chronos starting there, laddering up with complexity.
 
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Agree here on both opposing views. It will be tough for Breitling to enter upmarket with a dead brand that only niche watch nerds like us know and love but thats why I was also excited it was Breitling who acquired it. They have the money to market the hell out of this relaunch. They already spent 70mm so they're in balls deep and no chance to pull out now. Also they have the aspirations to get to Omega / Rolex level. That combo will mean they will heavily invest to make an awesome and new Universal Geneve watch and will do what they have to push it out to the consumer..
 
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. If they start at $3-4k, they'll always be labeled an entry level watch brand. Look at Longines or Tudor. They'll never be at the same level as Omega or Rolex.


Because Tudor and Longines do not intend to be at the same level as Rolex and Omega. It would be suicidal to start charging 7-8-10k usd for their watches as people have much better alternative for that price.
Also, Rolex created Tudor to catch the lower market, people who wanted a decent watch and do not want to spend more than 3-4k (in todays money). They have to keep their watches cheaper than Rolex. They are interested to take away from the lower players not to compete with themselves.

I appreciate the passion for UG but watch industry is savage. No place for dreamers.
Resurrecting a brand is no easy business. Im sure Bretiling will do several studies before making a decision on how to approach this.

My 2 cents is that UG cannot be in the 10k usd price range. They have never really been there so it makes no sense to make that jump after the brand has been dead for so long.
It will take time and a lot of money for Breitling to convince people to buy a UG for even 3-4k to start with…..let alone 8-10k.
 
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Because Tudor and Longines do not intend to be at the same level as Rolex and Omega. It would be suicidal to start charging 7-8-10k usd for their watches as people have much better alternative for that price.
Also, Rolex created Tudor to catch the lower market, people who wanted a decent watch and do not want to spend more than 3-4k (in todays money). They have to keep their watches cheaper than Rolex. They are interested to take away from the lower players not to compete with themselves.

I appreciate the passion for UG but watch industry is savage. No place for dreamers.
Resurrecting a brand is no easy business. Im sure Bretiling will do several studies before making a decision on how to approach this.

My 2 cents is that UG cannot be in the 10k usd price range. They have never really been there so it makes no sense to make that jump after the brand has been dead for so long.
It will take time and a lot of money for Breitling to convince people to buy a UG for even 3-4k to start with…..let alone 8-10k.
The only issue with that argument: That is where good watches are now. Granted that is due to scarcity but there is the price point.
 
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When you look at reincarnated car marques, they don’t set their aim low in the hope of one day going upmarket, which is nearly impossible to do.
No they aim high, they go for their target market, which is quite difficult enough to achieve successfully as it is.
Why do you think Toyota invented Lexus, Nissan cooked up Infinitely and others have done similar, it’s because brand recognition cuts both ways, I doubt anyone on the planet doesn’t know that Toyota is a car brand, but most people equate their brand virtues as being reliably, affordable quality, and entry level.
They created Lexus to break away from the confines of the Toyota brand perception, in order to gain market presence in a more profitable sales arena, as they could only reach so far with the Toyota brand with out trashing it’s currently very valuable brand values.
So with no real Japanese up market heritage brands to resurrect, they had to conjure one up.
And they’ve been by far the most successful of the Japanese manufacturers to do so, even though a great may of their offerings are really just tarted up Toyotas with a few more gizmos and an extremely butt ugly grill stuck on the front,
They didn’t start low, to do so would only cannibalise sale from their Toyota brand.

And most of the public out there don’t recognise that there are alternative brands in the same market sector as Rolex, let alone any thing above.
I assume the Breitling is not looking at selling to those people now, but possibly doing so in the future, as they reestablish the UG brand.
In the short term they will be relying on the enthusiast market to get the ball rolling……only time will tell if they’re right.

Your car brand analogy is not really relevant to our discussion. Toyota, Nissan and Honda created Lexus, Infinity and Accura to compete with german brands like Mercedes and BMW in the US market.
This was the market where they could sell more by offering a “luxury” product and enter a segment they did not have a product for.
Accura is not offered in Europe to this day, while Lexus and Infinity are limited to few models and have very high prices due to European protection laws for cars built outside EU. So, in Europe, these brands are irrelevant….which is ok because they do better on other markets that they were intended for.

Coming back to UG……Breitling cannot resurrect UG by relying on (the very, very few) vintage enthusiasts of the brand.
You cannot (as a business) invest 100m usd and “hope” to sell a few watches to a small community of watch nerds that hunt for good condition Polerouters and Tri-compax. It is a romantic view on how the watch business works.
They’ll need to start by making the brand known so public becomes aware of its existence and they need to make the product accessible price wise. This takes time and money……and a healthy approach is to have a 10 year plan which of course Bretiling shall have.
 
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Your car brand analogy is not really relevant to our discussion. Toyota, Nissan and Honda created Lexus, Infinity and Accura to compete with german brands like Mercedes and BMW in the US market.
This was the market where they could sell more by offering a “luxury” product and enter a segment they did not have a product for.
Accura is not offered in Europe to this day, while Lexus and Infinity are limited to few models and have very high prices due to European protection laws for cars built outside EU. So, in Europe, these brands are irrelevant….which is ok because they do better on other markets that they were intended for.

Coming back to UG……Breitling cannot resurrect UG by relying on (the very, very few) vintage enthusiasts of the brand.
You cannot (as a business) invest 100m usd and “hope” to sell a few watches to a small community of watch nerds that hunt for good condition Polerouters and Tri-compax. It is a romantic view on how the watch business works.
They’ll need to start by making the brand known so public becomes aware of its existence and they need to make the product accessible price wise. This takes time and money……and a healthy approach is to have a 10 year plan which of course Bretiling shall have.

The motor industry analogy is relevant, let me try again…..when VW reanimated the corpse of Bugatti they didn’t piss fart about with some entry level shitbox they went straight to the market level they wanted to be in, yes I know they took over the remains of a previous reincarnation effort which itself was aimed at the top tier.
Now at that time how many ordinary non car enthusiasts had ever heard of Bugatti……bugger all would’ve been the answer, but now there is a much greater awareness of the brand. And they’re probably not where they wanna be yet.
And getting back to those Japanese brands, you emphasise the “US market”……what you don’t think they will sell the UG brand there?

It takes cubic dollars to do this sort of undertaking and it takes a shit load of promotional flair.
No doubt they will have various celebrities as brand ambassadors, the usual suspects, actors, sportsmen, music tossers etc
They will probably round up some internet effluencers, to spruik their wares.
I suspect that there will be some careful product placement and some advertorial content paid for too….. but it will be based upon the core of enthusiasts to get the ball rolling, it is they who’ll be the first buyers.
Otherwise why would they pay all that money for a dormant brand, It must be because that they want to build upon that enthusiast base.
If the enthusiasts were irrelevant then they’d just conjure up a new brand and go from there.
It certainly won’t happen overnight, they may not even pull it off at all, but if they’ve done their sums, they hold their nerve and don’t get brought undone by unseen financial difficulties, then maybe they’ll be successful.
 
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The only issue with that argument: That is where good watches are now. Granted that is due to scarcity but there is the price point.

Yes and no.
There are good watches in all market levels.
When you have a budget of….let’s say 3k usd, you are going to research and see what options you have available for that money.

When you reach 7-8-10k the options are plenty and it involves big players which offer you a certain level of guaranteed quality, resale value and brand status.
UG cannot offer all these and to be fair not even Breitling can. For example, resale value of Breitling is not that great.
So, that’s my argument. You cannot really play in the 10k market share unless the brand has reached a certain level of maturity and proven quality. A new (re)entry brand cannot do that.
 
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The motor industry analogy is relevant, let me try again…..when VW reanimated the corpse of Bugatti they didn’t piss fart about with some entry level shitbox they went straight to the market level they wanted to be in, yes I know they took over the remains of a previous reincarnation effort which itself was aimed at the top tier.
Now at that time how many ordinary non car enthusiasts had ever heard of Bugatti……bugger all would’ve been the answer, but now there is a much greater awareness of the brand. And they’re probably not where they wanna be yet.
And getting back to those Japanese brands, you emphasise the “US market”……what you don’t think they will sell the UG brand there?

.

UG sold watches in US. They even had locally made metal bracelets in the US. So, it makes sense to want to sell there again. Breitling has the advantage of having a solid retail network where they can display the UG too.

I have made my argument that your car analogy with Lexus/Infinity does not stand up. These brands were directed at competing the german manufacturers in the US market and it took them 3 decades to start selling in other markets.

Bugatti…..come on! You are talking about a boutique car manufacturer with 70-80 cars made every year. How’s that relevant to resurrecting UG?
Is UG going to make limited editions only?! I dont think so.
 
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I think a better model would be the re-launch of Girard Perregaux as a more upscale brand in the 1990's. GP made watches at varying price points up until the late 1970's, then went somewhat dormant (at least from a US perspective) under various corporate ownership groups for about 20 years.
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