Brand new Omega Rocket Line Desk Clock!

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The back side of the hole jewel is flat (in the image, and how it fits in that Chaton). The front has a bit of a profile. It is 'flat', except for about the center 1/3 has a bit of a 'olive' shape to it perhaps? Though it is REALLY hard to see the profile.

I see that OFrei (https://www.ofrei.com/page939.html) has the 30711 which MIGHT be right? But I can't really tell the profile even moving it around.

I DO see that the 30714 is the only one available in the size I need (64/200), but I can't tell if it is the right profile. I might have to order and just 'hope'. BUT now I see I can order THAT jewel via the hswalsh, but also OFrei and JBorel (https://www.julesborel.com/products/Seitz-Center-Jewels-30714/Seitz-Center-Jewel-30714-64-200).

So I might at least have a solution.
 
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I wonder if he can use a metal bushing if he can't find the right sized jewel. @Archer ?
 
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I wonder if he can use a metal bushing if he can't find the right sized jewel. @Archer ?
One of my other 'options' I suspect is to just turn down the OD of the metal bushing from the existing 'cheaper' plates. I'll have to figure out a way to do that in a reasonable way (workholding is... an adventure for that!) on my large lathe though.
 
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I got back to this a little, though not enough to figure out if it is going to be a success 😀

I ordered the 64/200 jewel from Borel. I was able to press together the jewel setting and everything 'seems right'. The shape of the jewel isn't the same as before. The top jewel seems to have the 30710 profile (https://www.ofrei.com/page939.html), but I was able to re-use that.

I cleaned up the brass jewel-holder thing, but discovered that there was a bunch of red shmoo that I feared was loctie inside of it. That fear was unfounded, as I was able to push the 64/200 jewel in, and it seems to be holding perfectly! it also slides onto the motor pivot cleanly!

The only non-original-like part is the profile of the jewel is the 30714 instead of the 30711/30712 profile, but I think that is acceptable. At least better than the brass bearing on the original one for this motor.

I made progress assembling the jewel, but am a bit jittery to be working on watch/clock stuff at the moment, so taking a break 😀
 
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Alright tried to assemble it and ran into my NEXT challenge 😀 Apparently the top pivot of the motor on this one has a pyramids-shaped top instead of a rounded over top. Presumably because it was a 'thru jewel' on the brass bushing.

So I have to come up with a plan. I could either:
-Press the jewels back out of the chaton, and remove the 'cap jewel'. I think this would probably be fine, there is enough area for the oil to stay, and I might lean towards something thicker than 9010 as a result.

-Try to file off the top of the pivot until it doesn't bottom out anymore/provides the right end-shake. This is probably the way it ends healthiest if I get it RIGHT, but it is obviously a heck of a challenge. The nice part is I have a few extra motors if necessary. I also don't have the ability to do so while the motor is spinning (it is pressed into the bottom plate/has fingers holding it in the right place), so I'll have to do it free-hand.

Thougths? Other ideas?
 
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I made an offer on a dunhill clock with a similar movement and style : https://www.ebay.com/itm/326581058206

I'm hopeful it is the same thing, or at least close enough I can steal the parts I need, else I have some work to do haha.
That's the correct movement. Should have all parts , you need. Fun project.
 
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That's the correct movement. Should have all parts , you need. Fun project.
Ive actually ended up with TWO whole spare movements and a spare motor😀 I just have to figure out the above pivot situation and I can be done with this one!

Technically I was basically done with the motor replacement, but I really want the Omega back plate, since it is pretty cool looking.
 
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As an update: I'm a BIG oaf. I got REAL close to getting the motor pivot filed down to the right height, and slipped with the file and broke one of the windings. I had thought I was 'done', but realized I needed another 4-5 thou of clearance + end-shake. Rather than setup all of the stuff I had as protection on the rotor, I figured "I'll just be careful!"

Turns out: I wasn't careful enough.

SO that was the nicest of the 3 motors I have. Fortunately, the Relide motor actually works (verified!) after a small bit of cleaning, so I have a 2nd chance. overall, incredibly frustrating/annoying, but I can continue at least.

The sucky part is I have been working for days trying to file this slowly/carefully enough, so to screw it up RIGHT at the end is unbelievably frustrating.
 
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I hate when that happens. Usually it is a balance spring. Incabloc springs do that as well.

At least you have some spares. 😀
 
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Alright, finally finished! I was a bit more careful, and took off a little extra material to the point that the rotor spins freely. Its a touch noisy when it runs (every ~30 mins), but has been running a few cycles now!

First see the inside the movement picture. It uses a clear acrylic cover, so the motor back plate is obvious. Note I am still stuck with the steel motor front plate(the Omega one was brass), but I don't mind the look at all in comparison.

Otherwise it went together perfectly and is keeping time on my shelf! I need to regulate it eventually, but I'm done for now.

 
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So I couldn't help myself and got a "cute" clone on the super cheap. Was sold as "to be serviced" as it started and then...stopped. Well that's indeed what happens. I pulled it apart and found that the motor works properly but the clock stops. Unlike for my Omega it doesn't seem to be the balance wheel's pivot that's broken as position has no impact. The mainspring maybe...I'll take it to a guy who knows these movements like the back of his hand ;-)

 
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So I couldn't help myself and got a "cute" clone on the super cheap. Was sold as "to be serviced" as it started and then...stopped. Well that's indeed what happens. I pulled it apart and found that the motor works properly but the clock stops. Unlike for my Omega it doesn't seem to be the balance wheel's pivot that's broken as position has no impact. The mainspring maybe...I'll take it to a guy who knows these movements like the back of his hand ;-)

The mainsprings are SUPER fragile. I ended up acquiring a few movements (3 in total?) and they had a lot of broken ones. I DID find some NOS ones that were of similar enough dimensions, but didn't end up using them, but it was nice to know I had them available.
 
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That must be it then, when I "wind" it manually (the large brass wheel on the right) I do feel some resistance so it's not "completely" broken. Did yours do that too ?

 
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That must be it then, when I "wind" it manually (the large brass wheel on the right) I do feel some resistance so it's not "completely" broken. Did yours do that too ?

Thats the one! And yes, there will be some resistance I suspect, it isn't a very nicely made or jeweled part. You can take it off easily enough, but as you turn it/let it go it should wind/unwind (I think the ratchet wheel is on a different part attached tot he plate above it).
 
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It does unwind when I let it go, yes. It shouldn't if it wasn't broken ?
Do you have a picture of the NOS part you found ?
 
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It does unwind when I let it go, yes. It shouldn't if it wasn't broken ?
Do you have a picture of the NOS part you found ?
If it still unwinds, it probably isn't a fully broken mainspring and should run. One thing I found when starting mine, I had to make the motor run for a few seconds myself "out of phase" to make sure it was fully wound, else it wouldn't last the full 3 mins between electric winds.

I could probably get a picture, but it is just a mainspring of similar measurements.
 
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3 minutes ? Isn't more like 20 minutes between electric winds ?
That brass wheel in my picture appears to wind the mainspring that's below when turned counter-clockwise. It only ticks for a few minutes though.
I guess I'd need to source the wheel that includes the mainspring ?
 
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3 minutes ? Isn't more like 20 minutes between electric winds ?
That brass wheel in my picture appears to wind the mainspring that's below when turned counter-clockwise.
I guess I'd need to source the wheel that includes the mainspring ?
Ah yup! Typo apparently, it's about 20 mins.

That brass wheel is the mainspring barrel, you have to take it apart to get to the mainspring.

Mainsprings aren't available as direct replacement, so I had to measure one to find a similar replacement. I ended up not using the inexact replacement because one of my parts movements had a working one.