Battle of the Crowns? Some advice please:

I have a Seamaster 300 from 1967 with a service crown, the o-rings have vitrified so I ordered a new service crown (069ST42028) from a reputable source. Looking through the blister pack, there seemed to be a bit of a difference between the existing service crown and its new replacement. When I asked the parts guy about this he said it will be exactly the same part that, it just looks different through the blister pack window. But now I have it out of the blister pack side by side, there does seem to be a noticeable difference in the depth as the new one seems to be quite a bit shallower, also the chamfer at the rear seems to be a bit more pronounced.

Is this correct, if so does anyone know why there should be such a difference between the two service crowns?

Lastly, the colour of the new one seems to be a bit warmer than the one it's replacing, it's got a kind of guilt/nickel warmth to it compared to the original, any ideas?

I'd very much appreciate your insights.

That's very reassuring, thank you..
I have no idea why they would need to change them unless they are somehow improved, maybe?
How about the colour difference is that usual?
Kr

Thank you, that makes sense, I'm guessing it's different manufacturers over the years perhaps, but would that extend to the female thread depth? As I have fitted the new crown but it's not lying flush like the one it replaced.

I used exactly the same stem which was in excellent condition and made sure it was completely clean and free of all debris with no residue of thread lock, but as much as I tried I couldn't get it to screw down any more than a few turns, so much so that if I had used any more force I'd have broken the stem. As it's a like-for-like replacement I didn't think that I would need to trim the stem, but it seems that might be necessary. I've not encountered this before, is this kind of ± tolerance the norm?

It is working fine but it's sticking out from the case. I've attached a couple of images I'd really appreciate your advice:
Kr

Thank you once again, I'm guessing that just two or three turns of the crown to full tightness is within normal parameters;
I'll just have to remove it and trim it and refit it.. I'd imagine the easiest way to do that is to measure the space (in the last image) between the back of the Crown and the case and remove this amount from the stem, then file the end to remove any burrs..
Again, thank you very much for your help, it is much appreciated!