Hi,

I hope you are all good and that you're having a great having weekend.

In the near future, I plan to buy I vintage Rolex - knowing that this is a mine-field since I have little knowledge in this field. Therefore, it would be helpful if you can support me with your opinion on this Rolex 1018.

Is the watch - in your opinion - overall in good condition (case, dial, hands, bracelet, crown). My opinion:

Case: Has seen slight polishment but is - overall - in good shape.

Dial: I've seen this model with "long" indices (as this offer has) and "short" indices. Is this version with "long" indices authentic? Overall I cannot asses whether this is a redial or repainted dial. Would be very happy if you can help me.

Hands: Look in general authentic to me - however, are those hands authentic for the model? The reason is, that I've seen other offers with dauphine hands.

Bracelet: The offered watch comes with the reference 78360 and 558 endlinks - is this correct for this model?

Crown: Not assesable for me - help would be very appreciated.

Thank you in advance and have a great day ahead!

 

Hi there,

Case looks good, make sure it has a correct caseback and check for corrosion between the lugs and in the caseback threads.
Dial: the earlier ones had the short indicies in the positions that are not 3, 6, 9. It could be a service dial, but could be a dial from a 1002. If you look around the edge at the bottom of the rehault, you can see what may be the edge of the dial (indicating a smaller dial), ask for higher resolution photos.
Stick hands are correct for this dial and the earlier dial. Dauphine hands are for 1965ish and earlier. the pics are too low resolution to see if they are the correct length, but they look OK.
78360 is a later bracelet and the 580 endlinks would be correct I think. these 558 ones are pretty ill fitting, but this slim case is a difficult fit.

 

Mine says hi BTW. It is from 1967

 

Excuses for my late response and many thanks to both of you for your answer. Especially the reply from vibe was really helpful, very much knowledge here in this forum I guess In the end, however, I didnt buy the watch mentioned in my original post.

 

What did you get?

 

I bought a 50s Seamaster linked in this thread:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/help-on-bracelet-options-for-50s-seamasters.136114/

However, I am still thinking about the references 1018 and 6426. Especially the 1018 is, with my limited knowledge and the general availability of this particular model a difficult buy. To be honest, the 6426 might be as well since vintage Rolex seems to be a minefield.

Thank you again.

 

@fishtank_82 That Omega is a beauty, congrats! I have had my eye on one just like that. Dibs!
It is a minefield, but you just have to train your eyes to spot the problems. All that browsing Is paying off!

 

Thank you, I do like that Seamaster too. For me, there's something special whent it comes to these old pieces. For my untrained eye, the condition is very nice and I do enjoy wearing it.

When it comes to Rolex, however, there is much more money in the market. Therefore, chances are (in my case) pretty high to buy something that is not authentic (franken) or even not functioning or both. Guess my eyes might need strong training sessions

 

You may already know this, but it’s important to be aware that many many four-digit Rolexes have replaced dials, hands, bezels. Rolex dealers commonly offered “a new look” to their existing customers, and new buyers could often pick the dial they wanted when they were buying them.

For some of us, “authenticity” (is it Rolex?) is as important as originality, and we might like the watch as much as the previous owner who made the swap. I had a 1970s Rolex that had a later 1970s dial, and it was a beauty. I have a very much modified 1980s DateJust where someone in the past chose a black dial instead of whatever might have been on it. Good for them (and me), it looks amazing.

I guess what I’m saying is that as long as it’s all Rolex, you can focus hard on what you yourself find attractive. These references are not wildly expensive, and the various swapped bits don’t seem to affect price nearly as much as the condition.

These are great to wear, and easy to get serviced (lots of parts). Enjoy the hunt!

 

While true to some extent, the bottom floor for a basket case 1018 is like $3500, so not cheap. You have to known what you are paying for.

 

Thank you for your latest replies.

@nicks: I prefer the "original"-look over the "new look" - in fact I pretty much like that Ryan Gosling look or the look of his 5500 (is that the correct reference?). Try to enjoy the hunt

@vibe: I am not afraid of moderate new-bee tax whenever it results in buying a "good product". Thank for your indication in terms of what might be a reasonable price. However, the options on a steel bracelet for a 1018 are quite a bit > 3.500 USD, knowing that there is a difference between private sales and the pricing of dealers. Will keep my eyes open, whether something pops up.

 

The value of a vintage Rolex sport model could change by $10k if it has a service dial, but for a entry-level piece like the OP watch, the presence of some authentic replacement parts don't really affect the value very much. They are basically valued as pre-owned watches. So if your budget allows, just buy one that is appealing to you. IMO, some new collectors have gotten caught up in reading about highly collectible Submariners, GMT-Masters etc., and incorrectly think that the same considerations apply to these less collectible models.

 

@fishtank_82
People say that Ryan Gosling wears a 5500 but it looks like a 5504 to me.
@Dan S while true, the 1018 is quite uncommon, far under the radar, and there haven't been service parts for them for 4 decades. The dials and the hands are unique. You have to be careful to not pick up one where the smaller 1002 dial and hands have been fitted to it.

 

Although it’s fun to find these relatively uncommon references, it’s also worth pointing out that the overall “look and feel” of many of the popular four digit references didn’t change much over the decades. Sure, there are differences, but all the common four-digit references imho have a clear enough vintage look.

So I think it’s just practical to consider these references as part of the hunt. A lot easier to get serviced, and to find parts.

The other advice is that the sooner you get one, the less expensive it will be. For sure it’s not the crazy world of Subs, GMTs and so on, but prices on these have gone up significantly in the last couple of years.

 

I have a 1002, 1018, 1600, and 5500. They are all great and I highly recommend any of them. To me the 4 digit datejust is just amazing with the pie pan dial. There are lots of looks available to suit your taste. the 1018 is an oddball but a perfect slim case that is more flat and a better size than a 1002. The 5500 is a great everyday watch if you don’t have an explorer

 

@vibe: Thank you, may be I should take a broader look and consider the references you mentioned. Since I prefer not to have a daten I guess the DJs are out, but who knows - may be that changes as well. At the end of October, I'll have a few weeks off and go see some vintage dealers in the area.

Thank you again!

 

A good buy. The long markers and stick hands are true to the second generation that happened in the mid to late sixties. The earlier versions with the shorter markers are the first generation, and also had dauphine hands. Those models with stick hands had the hands changed, probably during a service. I just bought this glossy black gilt dialed version yesterday for $5,800 plus a watch in trade. I have only seen 3 examples of this black dial in the last 20 years. The 1018 is often considered the business suit verion of the 1016 Explorer (same size case but with smaller crown and case tube) and is often used to create "fake 1016s." I personally prefer the 1018 to the 1016 as a daily watch, just a more subtle look.

 

So, I have a few 1002s, a 1018 and 1016. I think a 1002 fits me better than the 1018 and tend to prefer wearing one.

And I still prefer my 1016 over the 1018. I fell in love with the dial the first time I saw it and still feel that way about it, even though the 1018 has an amazing glossy black dial that I enjoy.



(But, if I’m honest, I no longer feel comfortable wearing it, given how much they’re going for these days. I never thought I’d get to that point, as I've owned it for 35 years, loved it and worn it more than any other single watch I own. I’d be heartbroken if something happened to it and probably couldn’t afford to replace it.)

(My 1018 is from 1969 and has later (correct) service hands hands and dial.)

 

All three of your watches are stunning. Each one a unique face that deserves wrist time. I think the Explorer is well known by collectors and enthusiasts, but it still might be too subtle for modern day thieves. They tend to chase the more obvious...anything that looks like a Sub or is gold. At the same time, an Oyster bracelet does send up a red Rolex flag and draw attention. Have you considered using a leather strap as a way of dressing it down even more? I speak one way but do another...waiting for delivery of a very nice 1969 steel Rolex Jubilee for my 1018.