Authenticity check.

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Hey guys, I’m new to the forum, I’m Keith from Detroit. Thanks for having me. So pretty recently, I purchased an omega speedmaster ref 3570.50 from chrono24 for $3350. I’m actually new to collecting omega watches so I was unaware of a few things. the warranty card and pictographs look to not be filled out completely and correctly. The seller on chrono24 has hundreds of good feedback reviews but specializes in Rolex’s and not omegas. Also the lumes look to be very weak. Below are a few pics and It would be awesome if anyone could help out.
 
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Genuine.

Thanks meme dweller. I will sap perhaps I’m in need of servicing, the second hand Resets to that position in the picture as opposed directly onto 12.
 
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Maybe they just double tapped the start/stop button. I don't think the chrono second hand reset location shifts over its life between services, but factoring in service price for buying pre-owned watches is always a good practice.
 
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Chrono reset is a known “drift” from what I have read and can be resolved with a service. Looks to be in decent shape but the pics are awful. I hope it came with a bracelet for the price
 
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Chrono reset is a known “drift” from what I have read and can be resolved with a service. Looks to be in decent shape but the pics are awful. I hope it came with a bracelet for the price
I think that's more of an issue on the chrono subdials - I was wondering if the OP was refering to the chrono second that appears reset at 0.6sec, as the chrono subdials look reset to 12oclock as we'd expect.

To me, that looks like a shoddy refit of the hand. As many folks will say, it's a v easy fix for a watchmaker.
 
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Serial number: 77756373
Article ref: 35705000

There are various reasons why the chronograph seconds recording hand may not be resetting to 12. It could be that it wasn't installed correctly, but that is a long way out, so unless the last person who worked on it is a complete hack, that's unlikely. The second is that the tube of the hand is loose on the post, and this will cause drift in the reset in the direction of reset - this is my guess for this situation. The third is that the rivet between the tube of the hand and the flat part of the hand is loose, and this will often cause erratic hand resets to random positions.

None of these are serious and can be solved when the watch is serviced.

Cheers, Al
 
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For whatever reason photos of the papers never added. Here are more photos of the watch. Just want to make sure papers weren’t sourced.
 
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Hi, welcome to the forum and I hope you'll enjoy the watch!
Tho again I can't understand the logic of buying first and coming here to verify authenticity later.
A lot of hearts can be saved from being broken if you come here first and "use" the knowledge and wisdom of experienced collectors.
 
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Hi, welcome to the forum and I hope you'll enjoy the watch!
Tho again I can't understand the logic of buying first and coming here to verify authenticity later.
A lot of hearts can be saved from being broken if you come here first and "use" the knowledge and wisdom of experienced collectors.
Thanks!
Honestly I did not know the forum existed before purchasing. However I’m happy I found this forum because I plan on becoming a collector of omega watches in particular and I enjot lurking the forum and soaking in knowledge.
 
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What is done is done now, but just for future reference you will pretty much never get a deal off of Chrono24 - the watches listed there are often 15-20% over typical market value for some reason.
 
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Hey Keith, welcome to the board and the world of watches. Your soul will be better and your wallet will be worse, I promise. Looks like you got a keeper and if you didn't get the deal of the century, so what; I've bought watches for a song and watches for full price. Neither is happier or sadder in my collection.

I'm a little curious about the difference in the quality of the pictures in your first post vs the ones that show the box and card. Did you take the first ones and grab the others from the sellers page? I was just wondering why the serial was blanked on the cards but not in your shots.

I would say Archer's database lookup is pretty sound evidence that your watch is authentic as most fakers put some serial number that isn't correct, is identical for everything they make, and is chosen to make the Chinese think it's lucky. Lots of eights and other lucky Chinese numbers. Three or four eights is a bad sign.

There's a thread in the stickies (top of the forum) about verification of fakes. Lots of examples and an interesting read.
 
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Welcome Kieth, nice way to start a collection 👍
 
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Hey Keith, welcome to the board and the world of watches. Your soul will be better and your wallet will be worse, I promise. Looks like you got a keeper and if you didn't get the deal of the century, so what; I've bought watches for a song and watches for full price. Neither is happier or sadder in my collection.

I'm a little curious about the difference in the quality of the pictures in your first post vs the ones that show the box and card. Did you take the first ones and grab the others from the sellers page? I was just wondering why the serial was blanked on the cards but not in your shots.

I would say Archer's database lookup is pretty sound evidence that your watch is authentic as most fakers put some serial number that isn't correct, is identical for everything they make, and is chosen to make the Chinese think it's lucky. Lots of eights and other lucky Chinese numbers. Three or four eights is a bad sign.

There's a thread in the stickies (top of the forum) about verification of fakes. Lots of examples and an interesting read.

yes I just pulled those from the seller Thanks!
 
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What is done is done now, but just for future reference you will pretty much never get a deal off of Chrono24 - the watches listed there are often 15-20% over typical market value for some reason.

Granted - the list price is often high. However, you can make an offer and the worst thing that happens is they say "no." I generally assume that they want to move product rather than sit on it, and have a decent idea what they likely paid for the piece. Based on that, I'll lowball (bypassing the Chrono24 warning about low offers being rejected) and have been pleasantly surprised.

I've also been told where I can go. 😉
 
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Granted - the list price is often high. However, you can make an offer and the worst thing that happens is they say "no." I generally assume that they want to move product rather than sit on it, and have a decent idea what they likely paid for the piece. Based on that, I'll lowball (bypassing the Chrono24 warning about low offers being rejected) and have been pleasantly surprised.

I've also been told where I can go. 😉
I think as I start growing my omega collection, I’ll definitely come here to the forums first lol.