An Australian Made Watch With A Unique...........

I could not resist. One more copy and paste..
Nicks Blog.. Includes info about the Dial design.

Respect.
March 19 2018

***Swiss vs Aussie

Marc is a small Swiss watchmaker. He just designed a new watch mechanism - and needs 6 bridge screws. He calls his mate Jacques who lives around the corner. By lunch time Jacques turns two dozen screws, sends his apprentice to Pierre across the road who deburrs them and mails them to his mate Bernard for hardening and polishing. By Friday, Marc got his watch screws. Since he takes pride in his workmanship, he polishes them again and tempers them to blue colour. Total cost: $20 and a beer (because Bernard works for a major Swiss watchmaking manufacturer and prefers beer rather than cash).

On the other hand, your small independent Aussie watchmaker is trying to do the same on the other side of the world - but he has got one small problem: he does not have a network of specialists to rely upon. Instead, he invests in a lathe (which he imports from Switzerland); invests in tooling, raw material (also imported) then spends six months trying to learn how to make a screw. He also invests in a deburring and polishing machinery - and finally, into a hardening and tempering furnace. After weeks of trial and error, trying to figure out how to achieve perfection on his own, while doing the job of four people, he will end up with 4,000 screws - of which he needs just 6.

So why am I telling you all of this - which you most likely know anyway? Certainly not to entice your pity - but to highlight one more detail, which is often overlooked: Jacques does not only make screws for the watchmaking industry. Actually, only 20% of his screws end up in watches and 80% of his products end up in medical, electronics or military applications. And if this is not painful enough, Jacques is a fifth or sixth-generation machinist. Surely, like his grandfather and father, he continues to expand and innovate, invest in machinery and technology, but he is so well-rooted and connected that he can afford to focus on only one machining operation: turning. A typical, highly-specialised Swiss workshop can output 50,000-100,000 parts per day and top job shops can do 1 million or more. If this figure sounds unbelievable, check out the YouTube video of Laubscher which outputs 2 million parts per day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGuBs1S6f_Q

Actually, regardless of what you do for living - you should watch this video. You will be inspired.

As far as your local watchmaker is concerned: This weekend we've made another micro step in the right direction: check out our blog.

http://nickhacko.blogspot.com.au

*** So you think you have what it takes - to call yourself a DIAL DESIGNER?

Time is running out fast - only 11 days left to submit your entry for our $1,000 dial competition! If you are interested, email us for project details/description. So far 13 people have expressed their interest in making their mark on Mark 1. It will be interesting to see how many will actually come up with a proposal. We are excited! Deadline: April 1. (Yes, you are expected to design hands as well!)

Just need to add. Nick takes everyone along for the ride. Totally transparent. If he needs help, he will ask his subscribers, as he has done in the past. Hmmph., try getting such transparency from our beloved Swiss brands...

Please make sure to come back and tell us what you discovered.

I have very much enjoyed watching and reading about the journey of creating this movement, and I think the results speak for themselves. Coupled with Nacko's industry leading service and warranty policy, I hope they will have a hit on their hands. However, as much as I love the movement, and the dedication to developing a niche manufacturing capability in Australia, I just cannot bring myself to buy this or any of his watches, because they just do not appeal to me...and unfortunately, all of his watches look pretty much the same. In a world where most watches are sold on looks, IMHO that is Rebelde's Achilles heel.

It is rather bizarre fact that vast majority of watch enthusiasts - from a novice to serious watch collectors, bloggers and forum members- have very little or no interest in horological fundamentals. And why should they - when most crucial 'online' question to be asked is how does this watch looks on me? followed by how much? and, finally, is my favourite [brand name] a good investment?

Yet for the past 500 years of modern horological history, the most important question asked by any astronomer, scientist, engineer and watchmaker was - and still is- what makes the watch tick? followed by how do I make watch which ticks even better, one more complex and more beautiful, so I can showcase my skills, allowing the watch owner to showcase his sophistication?

Obviously, no modern Swiss brand engaged in mass-production of modern timepieces would ever ask such question nor shape consumers taste to focus on what is relevant for the same reason no junk food or sugary beverage company would promote nutrition. Yet it is that very question that concerns the minds and hands of small independent watchmakers and micro-engineers around the world - from Germany, Switzerland, Japan, US, Finland - and now, for the first time, even in Australia.

Ultimately, a watch is a sum of micro-engineered mechanical parts which works in harmony. The case, dial, hands, overall style - and pretty much everything else is secondary, or matter of taste, therefore irrelevant to an engineer, machinist and a watchmaker. Making those small intricate components is what is bloody difficult.

How difficult one could ask? So difficult that only a handful of individuals and small businesses outside Europe and Asia are capable of making watch components to be assembled and sold under their own name. The set of skills required is vast: starting with ability to understand complex mechanical interactions inside the watch mechanism - both from a theoretical and practical aspects - to design and engineering, measuring, to actual manufacturing. The initial investment into manufacturing can not be understated; finding a skilled and enthusiastic apprentices in a country with no micro-engineering history is another challenge in itself. Not to mention that final 'product' would be judged by it's most irrelevant aspect - the look, by those who have no interest to invest themselves into horology at all, rendering it commercially unnecessary.

On the other hand, the fact that watch manufacturing is so bloody difficult make is irresistibly attractive to the point that it becomes an obsession. While an average enthusiast is quick to offer his opinion with no concern to facts, deep and meaningful appreciation comes from fellow watchmakers, engineers, machinists and in short, those who know what it takes to make anything - large or small, complex or simple, precise or crude - using a tool. And this is one of the main reason we call ourselves students of horology and, since recently, watchmakers.

The journey is going to be long and bumpy. The end result is unpredictable. If we fail, we will look back knowing we were Australian pioneers in an amazingly difficult field. Our apprentices have already gained skills which makes them employable with any manufacturer - from medical, space to electronics and optical. Not to mention any watch brand in Switzerland - if they wish to continue their journey further. Hardly a bad deal or something to complain about.

As to whether we actually make watch components in Australia or not, and which one we currently do: plenty of what we do is in public domain. In addition, we would be more than happy to open our workshop doors to a group of forum members who would like to see (for the first time in their life) the entire production process. If for no other reason, such a visit to a manufacturing facility would enhance your own appreciation for your own watch immensely. The workshop is run by two kids who are barely 20-something, yet already world class machinists, respected and know by name in Germany, Switzerland and US.
Lat year NH CNC watchmaking workshop has been officially recognized as first such facility in Australia by Watchmakers of Australia, the official body of Watchmakers upon the organized tour of 20 members. Definitely worth your time!

As I type this - I am happy to share just a glimpse of what concerns our small team, right now, as we speak. It is one of those fundamental questions: what makes the watch tick? Particularity, position of banking pins in relation to lift angle and amplitude of the straight lever escapement in NH2 watch. This pallets bridge is designed, measured, machined and hand finished in our workshop in Brookvale. All dimensions are in micron and dotted lines show the theoretical improvement from the last machined part, based on practically observed action. If you wish to offer your opinion on this matter, we are all ears!





And if you are a young, enthusiastic, Aussie kid with attention to detail willing to join our small team, we would love to hear from you too. Watchmaking is super cool, and one day, when you hold a watch bearing your name on the dial, you will look back and say, like Josh - well, it was surely worth it.


Nick Hacko,
Master Watchmaker
Sydney

PS with all due respect, as a matter of principle, no engagement with anonymous posters. If you wish to correspond, please sign your comment with name, your profession and location. Thank you.

I'm another regular reader of Nick's newsletter and I've been following his progress for some time. Regardless of whether you like his dials, the design and manufacture of a movement from scratch is a fascinating process. Sure, not all the parts can be made in house (some parts are just too specialised for anyone but a fully integrated manufacturer like Rolex or Seiko to achieve in house) but I'm sure that a very substantial portion of the value of each watch is created right here in Australia.
Nick's passion comes through in his writing and his work and I look forward his daily newsletter.

Tristan
Australia
Ham-fisted watch tinkerer

Not that I don’t respect a fellow Aussie having a go, I couldn’t disagree with the above paragraphs more!
I’d put it too you that the big Swiss brands put more resources into this then the micro independents do, hence why the micro brands copy them!
P.S.
As a matter of principle I love the freedom of the internet where people can post anon. Even if on every forum I personally always use my real name etc.

Microbrand is not the same as micro engineer/ independent watchmaker.

The trouble with this watch is the back of the watch is Credor quality, but the front says Sekio 5.

Also, the dial, case and crown don't seem to flow very well to my eye, looks like a draft version of a Bremont.

Agreed but really doesn’t change my point.
Micro brands that do have their own in house engineering and are independent watchmakers certainly do copy the big Swiss brands, often due to lack of resources but also due to lack of being able to think outside the box (in both engineering and design).

I think there is variety amongst the independents. Not all lack imagination.

Looking at this independents designs he certainly does, hence my criticism of his criticism of the big Swiss brands.
Promote your product by all means but no need to drag successful brands down in doing so, especially when you yourself copy them.

Please don’t take any of the above as anything but honesty.
We all love romantic dream of the independent watchmaker (it’s how most our favorite brands started and still cling too today).
Unfortunately the dream rarely matches reality.

I admire this guys efforts and hope it evolves into great success.
I think the watches are very very well priced for the amount of work put in.
While reading the story my head/hearts seriously “where can I get one”, until I look over at the designs and I’m like meh.

Alas it looks like producing a fresh design/style dial that has instant appeal is not perhaps an easy thing to do.

100% agree. Much of the design of the classical watch designs come from function rather then artistic expression, even if that function is lost on those who copy.
Designs designed just for the sake of being different can quickly lose appeal (if they ever manage to gain any) ie they don’t age well.

Yes, we need look no further than Omega’s many hit-and-miss limited editions.

Ummm, Richard Mille?

What though is a miss? A miss for you could be a grail for someone else!
You might go then; oh a miss in a LE is when some are later forsale on grey for 30% off, but why is to that a miss?
What if there’s a LE of 5000 they sell 4700 at full retail to people that love it (with some of them being their fav watch ever) Omega makes clear profit and the rest go grey at discount.
Might look like a miss to those searching online grey or who didn’t like it in the first place, but everyone who bought is happy and omega is happy, how is that a miss?