Advice on Buying My First Vintage Seamaster (166.010 or 168.022)

[jakediamond]

Hi Everyone! I am looking to buy my first vintage Omega and have spent some time scouring eBay/Chrono24. I have been looking for a model that has a larger case (35mm+) and I am looking at these two watches (for now). I've used the advice on these forums (which has been very helpful!) but wanted to get some of your expert opinions to ensure I don't make any big mistakes with my first vintage purchase.

The first watch I'm considering is this 1968 Seamaster 166.010 with a cal.565 movement. The listing states that the dial and hands are original and in excellent condition. The watch has obviously been polished but that is not a huge issue for me.



The second watch I'm considering is a 1967 Seamaster 168.022 with a cal.564 movement. Seller says all parts are original and they don't believe the watch has ever been polished. I am a big fan of the sparkle dial but the price is higher than I am looking to spend.



Many thanks in advance for any helpful advice!

 

[SOG53]

Both nice looking watches. Which appeals to you?
First one is very nice classic Seamaster but the heavy polishing may bother you as time passes.
Second one is chronometer movement which is a plus, and either the case has been redone or it looks like NOS watch. Others will be able to tell you if this looks like original case
Don't rush though, these are different models you should decide which reference you want to buy, then concentrate on finding the best example you can find. Resist the temptation to think you have to buy one of these. The hunt is the fun part. Good luck

 

[theluckyluke]

I’ll let the experts chime in, but both look pretty good I think - depending on price.

I personally prefer the first reference, because of the hands, but it does look a bit too polished for my personal taste. You can see how some dings on the case have been polished away, yet you still see them a bit. The case back has seen a lot of this too.

Buying a polished watch, thinking that it doesn’t matter, is never a great idea - if you think you’ll continue with the hobby. With time you will start to appreciate the unpolished shapes and polished cases are going to be a no go. This takes time to appreciate differences that can be subtle at first though.

The brushed bezel works very nicely with the dial on the second example, giving it a fresh look. The case looks very new and the high brightness in the picture make it look almost unreal.

The first one seems to have onyx inserts, the second one black paint, which is slightly less interesting.

If you share asking prices, then this could introduce another element for a decision.

 

[GuiltyGear]

I have a 168.022 and it's maybe my favorite Omega. Your example looks in very good shape. The 166.010 on the other hand is a more traditional case design, and many will gravitate towards it. Both are beautiful watches.

As adviced by @SOG53, it's a good idea to wait and build up some knowledge on the different case and dial designs. Maybe there are other references that speak to you better. Good luck.

 

[Pvt-Public]

Personally I would have to go with the 168.022 as I have the non-chronometer 166.028. And I am partial to the sparkle dial.

 

[kaplan]

I'd always vote 168.022 as well, sharp case, and 100% compatible with some Speedmaster bracelets - the exact lug shape is quite common, lots of bracelet options

With a quick look, likely both options are refinished, I like the refinishing of 168.022 more, it may be original as well

 

[Spruce]

My vote is for the 166.010.

There are plenty around in various conditions and for various prices. Some are in poor condition but, in general, even those like mine with minor cosmetic defects are pretty good and can be dressed up or down, they’re such a classic shape.

As yet, I haven’t caught the sparkle bug so I accept that I’m a bit biased.

 

[Dan S]

All depends on price. If size really matters to you, the 168.022 is substantially larger, but not really a classic look. Personally, I am preferring no-date models these days, so these are at the back of the drawer.

 

[Spruce]

Dan S

All depends on price.

That’s a 168.010 isn’t it? It’ll be significantly more expensive than a 166.010

 

[Dan S]

Spruce

That’s a 168.010 isn’t it? It’ll be significantly more expensive than a 166.010

It's actually a 168.024, IIRC. Same case as a 166.010. Yes, a little more expensive.