Advice needed

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I have recently began restoring my first mechanical watch which got me into the hobby (an invicta pro diver). I have almost finished servicing the movement using the following guide and am waiting on replacement parts (ignore markings on the guide)

:

The case and primarily the bracelet has seen some very very heavy use:

in some photos, it looks as though there were no polished areas of the bracelet. I did some research, bought the necessary materials and went to town trying to restore it. After quite a long time spanning over 2 days, I have polished the center pieces of the links, edges of the links, and re-finished the brushed stainless edges. As this is my first time doing anything of the sort, it is nowhere near perfect:


The inner polished part was done with a Dremel, felt polishing pads, tech diamond tools 16,000 grit, 100,000 grit, and 200,000 grit diamond polishing compound. The outer of the links and the clasp were done with a 220 grit grinding wheel on the before mentioned Dremel. I understand 220 grit is rather low but it is what I had at hand, I have seen many others using scotch brite and from what I have read a better alternative, garryflex sanding bricks. Having used the 220 grit wheels, I found it is too rough and not as fine of a finish as I had hoped. My question lays with garrison garryflex bricks, will the extra 20 grit (240) make that much of an improvement? And if not, are there any other suggestions on how to refine this a bit more? I also am stumped regarding the inner high polished part of the links. They have polished well, but there are streak marks, remaining scratches (are they simply too deep or can some still come out?). I do not by any means expect it to come out like new, but I feel like it could come out much better. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding what could be done differently or is this the best it will get?

Disclaimer: I understand replacement NH35A movements and bracelets (even the whole watch itself) can be had for a cheaper price than that of my tools, polishing compounds and other materials. I am focusing on the academic aspects of learning the proper ways to restore/service future watches in my collection.
 
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A hand held Dremel is not an appropriate tool for this work. The small diameter wheels can load up very quickly, and cause artifacts like streaks in the finish, and the small wheel diameter can also lead to uneven surfaces, both in appearance and in geometry.

If you really want to learn how to do this properly, you need a proper polishing set-up. What is called in the industry a bench lathe - polishing motor that can take at least 4 or 6 inch diameter buffs. Then you need a selection of different types of buffs, like hard felt, stitched muslin, unstitched muslin. In addition other types of finishing wheels, such as satin finishing wheels will be needed for applying brushed finishes properly.

You will also need different types of polishing compounds for heavier stock removal, colouring, different materials, etc.

Kapton (polyamide) tapes are typically used for masking off areas of cases and bracelets as the different finishes are applied.

Doing this right involves some money, and also an investment in time to learn the skills. Like any polishing procedure, you have to start with something that will remove all the heavy scratches, and then move on to a finer grade.

If you want some specific equipment recommendations, let me know.
 
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A hand held Dremel is not an appropriate tool for this work. The small diameter wheels can load up very quickly, and cause artifacts like streaks in the finish, and the small wheel diameter can also lead to uneven surfaces, both in appearance and in geometry.

If you really want to learn how to do this properly, you need a proper polishing set-up. What is called in the industry a bench lathe - polishing motor that can take at least 4 or 6 inch diameter buffs. Then you need a selection of different types of buffs, like hard felt, stitched muslin, unstitched muslin. In addition other types of finishing wheels, such as satin finishing wheels will be needed for applying brushed finishes properly.

You will also need different types of polishing compounds for heavier stock removal, colouring, different materials, etc.

Kapton (polyamide) tapes are typically used for masking off areas of cases and bracelets as the different finishes are applied.

Doing this right involves some money, and also an investment in time to learn the skills. Like any polishing procedure, you have to start with something that will remove all the heavy scratches, and then move on to a finer grade.

If you want some specific equipment recommendations, let me know.
Pretty much defines in a nutshell why I’m happy to pay someone else to service my watches and my cars.
 
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A hand held Dremel is not an appropriate tool for this work. The small diameter wheels can load up very quickly, and cause artifacts like streaks in the finish, and the small wheel diameter can also lead to uneven surfaces, both in appearance and in geometry.

If you really want to learn how to do this properly, you need a proper polishing set-up. What is called in the industry a bench lathe - polishing motor that can take at least 4 or 6 inch diameter buffs. Then you need a selection of different types of buffs, like hard felt, stitched muslin, unstitched muslin. In addition other types of finishing wheels, such as satin finishing wheels will be needed for applying brushed finishes properly.

You will also need different types of polishing compounds for heavier stock removal, colouring, different materials, etc.

Kapton (polyamide) tapes are typically used for masking off areas of cases and bracelets as the different finishes are applied.

Doing this right involves some money, and also an investment in time to learn the skills. Like any polishing procedure, you have to start with something that will remove all the heavy scratches, and then move on to a finer grade.

If you want some specific equipment recommendations, let me know.
Thank you for the advice, I would love to know the specific equipment recommendations. As I have seen how much Lathe’s cost, can it technically be done by hand/handheld tools? And if so, what would be needed? Thankfully I have not had any uneven surfaces from what I have done so far.
 
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Thank you for the advice, I would love to know the specific equipment recommendations. As I have seen how much Lathe’s cost, can it technically be done by hand/handheld tools? And if so, what would be needed? Thankfully I have not had any uneven surfaces from what I have done so far.

Just to clarify, this is not a watchmaker's lathe for cutting parts. I use a variable speed polishing motor - there are various brands out there that are used such as Arbe, Foredom, Ray Foster, etc.. They vary in quality and power, and of course price. I don't know where you are located, but this is a major watch material and tool supplier in the US, and this is their page for polishing equipment:

Tools : Polishing : Polishing Motors | Jules Borel & Co.

This is a good variable speed version:

MO390 (julesborel.com)

Personally, I use a Foredom unit, mounted to a dust collector:



Selection of various buffs:



Just FYI - uneven surfaces are difficult to see by eye, but when you take a surface to a proper polishing station, and hit it with a wide wheel, the undulations become very apparent. I have had to fix many home refinishing jobs, and honestly they are more work than if the watch owner had just left it alone. My advice would be to find a proper polishing motor that fits your budget, or leave it to the professionals.

Cheers, Al
 
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Thanks for the help and advice! I will probably just have it done by professionals (not on the cheaper watches that is). Do you by any chance know a range of what it could cost
 
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My watchmaker charges between $125 and $175 depending on the amount of masking that has to be done.