Advice for SM300 165.024

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The 552 was a common movement with a few other models. Only an extract can tell you if that movement came in an SM300- but is that important to you? The one you posted doesn’t look cobbled to me, in fact is looks like it was a well cared for watch that had a very well done dial relume. The question for you is what are your goals? Do you want a flawless shelf piece or do you want a nice piece to wear daily? Also- the price of the one you posted would be a big deciding factor. If they want collectible value- then pass and hold out for a collectible one. But if it’s priced fairly- I would wear it regularly.

I looked everywhere but couldn’t find anything like the price chart from speedmaster101 but for SM300s. I mean besides eBay or Chrono24 where I suppose to find much „fantasy“. Is there any possibility how to come to an estimation bandwidth for a „fair“ price to this watch - assumed that the movement is not original, dial and hands are relumed, bezel is a newer original and everything else is correct? Anybody here who would try a rough estimate?
 
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I looked everywhere but couldn’t find anything like the price chart from speedmaster101 but for SM300s. I mean besides eBay or Chrono24 where I suppose to find much „fantasy“. Is there any possibility how to come to an estimation bandwidth for a „fair“ price to this watch - assumed that the movement is not original, dial and hands are relumed, bezel is a newer original and everything else is correct? Anybody here who would try a rough estimate?
I think and easier approach is to tell us what they want for it and we can tell you if that’s fair or not.
 
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If you truly believe this is a franken, then the only way to price it is VAP.
 
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I think and easier approach is to tell us what they want for it and we can tell you if that’s fair or not.

Of course, no problem. The commercial seller offers the watch including 1 year warranty for around 7500 EUR.
 
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If you truly believe this is a franken, then the only way to price it is VAP.

Thanks, not sure, what means VAP?
 
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Of course, no problem. The commercial seller offers the watch including 1 year warranty for around 7500 EUR.

So $8200 USD for a watch you believe to be a franken, with no bracelet. Have you looked in the OF classifieds (private and dealer) for comparisons, past and present?
 
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So $8200 USD for a watch you believe to be a franken, with no bracelet. Have you looked in the OF classifieds (private and dealer) for comparisons, past and present?

that’s the thing, pretty sure that $8200 USD is to much, of course. I don‘t think it’s a Franken, just not sure regarding the movement. Let’s assume it’s correct... if I look at the classifieds seeing the prices beginning with $6500 USD for more or less interesting examples and compare it to this watch, nearly correct with sharp HF case and caseback etc. but with relumed hands and dial. Maybe $4500 USD or a bit up is fair. Unfortunately I am not expert enough to correlate all given factors into a realistic estimation, so I would appreciate your opinions.
 
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When you compare prices, don't forget the value of bracelets.
 
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I was thinking your $4.5k ballpark was about right. But as Dan said, the correct bracelet alone for these adds $1k.
 
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...and we can’t forget that this is a commercial seller and not a private sale so they are always going to ask a premium...but $8k for that is way too much.
 
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For the sake of comparison (although different hands and dial)- here is a nice one....priced fairly I think and with an extract. The one you posted would be a bit less due to the relume I think.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-seamaster-300-165-024-gilt-dial.110893/#post-1461232

Depending on how long the seller you have been taking with has been sitting on it, and with the current global economic disaster, I would see no harm in making an offer that you feel is fair for the watch and let them decline or accept.
 
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For the sake of comparison (although different hands and dial)- here is a nice one....priced fairly I think and with an extract. The one you posted would be a bit less due to the relume I think.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-seamaster-300-165-024-gilt-dial.110893/#post-1461232

Depending on how long the seller you have been taking with has been sitting on it, and with the current global economic disaster, I would see no harm in making an offer that you feel is fair for the watch and let them decline or accept.

Thanks for your opinion, I think I try just that 😀
 
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I looked everywhere but couldn’t find anything like the price chart from speedmaster101 but for SM300s. I mean besides eBay or Chrono24 where I suppose to find much „fantasy“. Is there any possibility how to come to an estimation bandwidth for a „fair“ price to this watch - assumed that the movement is not original, dial and hands are relumed, bezel is a newer original and everything else is correct? Anybody here who would try a rough estimate?

When you say you looked everywhere.....?

https://www.omegaseamaster300.com
 
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Really learning a lot. Relume with "pin holes".
For these dials in 23.xxx to 24.xxx serial ranges i would expect a bit of “wobbly” lume that has bleeded a bit over the edges over time, like seen on ndgal’s watch.

I will post here a picture of my trapezoid dial as well, where you can see that the lume on the dials in this era on the SM300 where a bit thick.

The OP’s dial has gone the opposite direction and shrunk, and this is not usual for the SM300 dials of this era.

To make the pin hole is actually harder than you think, because due to this bleeding over time the pin holes are almost non visible on originals, and clearly visible on ones considered relumes.
Edited:
 
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On pin holes, i was made to understand that there are pieces out there without and the lumes are original. Is it really carved in stone that dials without are relume? Experts?
 
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On pin holes, i was made to understand that there are pieces out there without and the lumes are original. Is it really carved in stone that dials without are relume? Experts?
To answer your question, the general consensus is that yes, there are dials without pin holes out there that are still considered fully original.
 
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The holes are physically on the dial and some dial (maybe first series) have no holes.