About to pull trigger on 1958 Constellation purchase and wanted to run it past your hawk-like eyes. The clip on the hands looks odd, though.Thoughts?

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Should the clip be underneath the disc where the hands meet? As that a repairer's gaff? And the watchface? Wonderfully preserved or a redial? Lettering all right? The are slight variations on the E crossing, but I believe this happened... they were finished by hand at that period, I read. The G looks ok? Acceptable? The price, we are talking about is $1,600. Movement number and caseback number seem to be both 1958. Medallion on back looks crisp, lettering of consellation and waterproof on back arent polished out and all the stars are there.

I would so much welcome your thoughts before I shell out any money, as I want to get this right. I am asking the seller for closer ups of the movement and a clean view of the the number. It starts 16,04... I think.

 
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I agree, a "soft pie-pan" re-dial.

Don't understand what you mean by "the clip on the hands".
 
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I believe that the ‘clip’ that the OP is referring to is just the Omega symbol in the crystal and its reflection, which makes it appear there’s a circlip on the hands?
 
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@Singapore202000

Did the seller suggest that the dial was original? - if so you should perhaps avoid this seller.

There are a couple of immediate obvious tells of a redial:
as @TexOmega mentioned - the straight 'n' in Constellation.
A 2852 would never have a crossed-T
The minute haches on a pie pan should never cross the edge of the flat section of the dial and should be a consistent distance from the edge all-round

This is a useful resource to study the correct dials etc. for the various Constellation references:
http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/
 
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With a tired looking movement, and a dial that looks that good, can there be any question as to whether the dial has been refinished?
 
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Should the clip be underneath the disc where the hands meet? As that a repairer's gaff? And the watchface? Wonderfully preserved or a redial? Lettering all right? The are slight variations on the E crossing, but I believe this happened... they were finished by hand at that period, I read. The G looks ok? Acceptable? The price, we are talking about is $1,600. Movement number and caseback number seem to be both 1958. Medallion on back looks crisp, lettering of consellation and waterproof on back arent polished out and all the stars are there.

I would so much welcome your thoughts before I shell out any money, as I want to get this right. I am asking the seller for closer ups of the movement and a clean view of the the number. It starts 16,04... I think.

Thanks for that. On reflection, it just has to be. I'll pass and instead buy a gold one from Antiquorum -- when I save up a bit more, lol.
 
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Thanks for that. On reflection, it just has to be. I'll pass and instead buy a gold one from Antiquorum -- when I save up a bit more, lol.

@Singapore202000

Did the seller suggest that the dial was original? - if so you should perhaps avoid this seller.

There are a couple of immediate obvious tells of a redial:
as @TexOmega mentioned - the straight 'n' in Constellation.
A 2852 would never have a crossed-T
The minute haches on a pie pan should never cross the edge of the flat section of the dial and should be a consistent distance from the edge all-round

This is a useful resource to study the correct dials etc. for the various Constellation references:
http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/
Thanks for your kind advice. Much appreciated. I will check out your links.
 
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I know I'm late to the party, but is that the correct crown?
 
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I know I'm late to the party, but is that the correct crown?
no -it's a Seamaster crown (but once you see the redial it is less important as crowns for these are available new from Omega)
 
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You know, my brother who is not a watch collector, spotted the crown too. And the lettering. Was redialing a common thing a few decades ago? I think it was.
 
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Looks like a redial so value would be much less.
The clip is the omega logo? So that would indicate the glass is original
 
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Hi guys. What if I got a major reduction in the price and had the redial watch redailed by a top pro so that was a perfect match of the original? I've been told about Classic Watch Repair in Hong Kong (I live down the road) who comes highly recommended. I want my Connie to be my daily watch, so if the price is right and the redial is perfect it doesnt matter to me. For my special days I have an Omega 1954 gold Tresor with box and papers which is an original presentation watch in the 1956 Melbourne Olympic games to a Greco-Roman gold medallist from Finland. I've been on Chrono24... and frankly, with my new set of eyes, I'm pretty much suspicious of every item that has a newish looking dial. The older ones, a few, with blemishes, look promising... but even those have been warn long and hard and the back medallion is often rubbed away with stars missing and the "Constellation" and "waterproof" is almost always rubbed away. It seems like getting a perfect original one is like the Holy Grail... almost impossible to find!
 
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Hi guys. What if I got a major reduction in the price and had the redial watch redailed by a top pro so that was a perfect match of the original? I've been told about Classic Watch Repair in Hong Kong (I live down the road) who comes highly recommended.

There are some very close redials that come out of Vietnam - but a redial will never (ever) be a perfect match to the original.
(@hoipolloi may disagree)

As a collectors' forum you will always receive the advice of "buy original'.

However, in saying that and depending on the 'major reduction', (it would have to be at least half of the $1600 you quoted earlier IMHO) if you are happy with a redialled watch and the cost of the watch plus the redial is significantly less than the cost of an original watch (not Chrono24 prices) then of course you should think about pursuing the watch.
(note - it will always be a redialled watch and be worth half the value of an original dialled watch)

The movt will also need a good service as it does look tired as @Canuck mentioned earlier in the thread.
It will also need a new crown - which is no big deal.

hope that helps
 
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Hi guys. What if I got a major reduction in the price and had the redial watch redailed by a top pro so that was a perfect match of the original? I've been told about Classic Watch Repair in Hong Kong (I live down the road) who comes highly recommended. I want my Connie to be my daily watch, so if the price is right and the redial is perfect it doesnt matter to me. For my special days I have an Omega 1954 gold Tresor with box and papers which is an original presentation watch in the 1956 Melbourne Olympic games to a Greco-Roman gold medallist from Finland. I've been on Chrono24... and frankly, with my new set of eyes, I'm pretty much suspicious of every item that has a newish looking dial. The older ones, a few, with blemishes, look promising... but even those have been warn long and hard and the back medallion is often rubbed away with stars missing and the "Constellation" and "waterproof" is almost always rubbed away. It seems like getting a perfect original one is like the Holy Grail... almost impossible to find!
People on this forum value originality and condition, but there are degrees of flexibility depending on what your goals are. Not everyone wants to spend months/years finding a pristine example.

Do you care about the redial or not? If it doesn’t bother you in the first place, and you want a daily “beater”, I am not even sure why you would want to redial it again. Same for the crown, maybe you can even live with this, assuming that it fits the watch well. The critical part is the movement, to get it serviced.

If you know what you’re getting into, what the watch is/isn’t, and are comfortable with the price… and overall you find value in this, that’s all what matters… in my opinion!

The real issue is when you pay strong for something you think it is, and it isn’t. But you asked first, so you now you know!
 
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You started this thread to ask some detailed questions about the watch, which suggests to me that the condition and originality matters to you at some level. If you bought this watch and had the dial repainted, it probably wouldn't be much better. Certainly the sharp edge of the pie-pan would not be restored. And if someday, you decided that you wanted to upgrade to an original example in good condition, it would be hard to sell this one. It's not so difficult to buy a decent example at a fair price, just be patient.