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A pretentious, snobby, old fashioned guide to choosing a strap

tmw57
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Syrte Syrte
The grey has a beautiful color and of course that Eterna watch is beautiful. And I also I like the croc hides but I must admit I always prefer flat straps on a vintage watch, especially if it’s gold and a bit dressy.

As for the shell cordovan above, I still find it a bit too dark but perhaps it’s the picture? And the stitches somehow feel too casual for me, either the thread is too thick for this watch, or the knots not tidy enough, or the stitches should be sitting low in a heat pressed line— there’s something in the execution of the details that clashes with the style of the watch.
This watch needs a strap that’s totally streamlined and unobtrusive.

Wonderfully stated..
Color is better in person. But I completely agree with the other points. Thanks!
 
TimeODanaos
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Waltesefalcon Waltesefalcon
I really like leather with some texture, so I gravitate towards crocodile and ostrich. I think a croc strap with complimentary stitching is good. Here are two of my gold watches on croc straps. The grey was one I wasn't sure about until I had the strap on the watch and really liked the color combination.
That Eterna! 🙄
 
Waltesefalcon
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@Syrte thank you. That's high praise coming from you.

@tmw57 I agree with Syrte. That watch should have a lighter strap, and there is something ever so slightly off about the stitching.

@YYTIN this is a watch I won't part with anytime soon, but your dibs is duly noted.

@TimeODanaos Thank you.
 
tmw57
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OK, I found a 20mm (too big) Horween #8 shell strap and took a few quickie pics.
Thoughts?

IMG_4480.jpg IMG_4481.jpg
 
Waltesefalcon
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I rather like that color with that watch. I think if you find a nice 18mm one in that color you'll have a very handsome pairing.
 
tmw57
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Waltesefalcon Waltesefalcon
I rather like that color with that watch. I think if you find a nice 18mm one in that color you'll have a very handsome pairing.

Thanks. I may do that and perhaps darken it a tad with some polish if needed.
 
YYTIN
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The colour match is spot on.
I would go for no stitching (and pressed line instead) or a simpler one but for sure not this one ;-)
 
Syrte
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I like the color but the style is way too casual IMHO. The stitch and finish are completely off. 😬
 
Malthus101
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I'm going to go against the trad advice and have an ABP Concepts strap made in dark brown aligator for my "as of yet" unworn Speedy 345.0808! And I'll have a nice deployant clasp fitted.

I'll get around to it at some point. One day. Maybe... sigh.

01_front.jpg 02_back.jpg ABP Concept - aligator.png
 
tmw57
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Syrte Syrte
I like the color but the style is way too casual IMHO. The stitch and finish are completely off. 😬

Yeah, it was really a color check. I don’t like the stitch either. Regarding finish: something glossier? Shell can easily be buffed to a high gloss..
Only thing I’m not sure about is style..what would less casual look like?
 
Waltesefalcon
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tmw57 tmw57
Yeah, it was really a color check. I don’t like the stitch either. Regarding finish: something glossier? Shell can easily be buffed to a high gloss..
Only thing I’m not sure about is style..what would less casual look like?

Finish and stitching. Your watch will look best with something sleek. A nice high buff leather than will take a nice shine (like shell) and either no stitching at all, or very unobtrusive stitching.
 
Syrte
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tmw57 tmw57
Yeah, it was really a color check. I don’t like the stitch either. Regarding finish: something glossier? Shell can easily be buffed to a high gloss..
Only thing I’m not sure about is style..what would less casual look like?
Less casual means thinner cut, this looks too thick, the keepers look coarse and not finished, take as an example the pigskin strap by Matteo Torre which @YYTIN posted above, pigskin is not usually a dressy type of material but in this instance it was cut and finished so neatly that it looks like the perfect cross between dressy and casual. This would actually work really well in a different color too.
 
tmw57
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Syrte Syrte
Less casual means thinner cut, this looks too thick, the keepers look coarse and not finished, take as an example the pigskin strap by Matteo Torre which @YYTIN posted above, pigskin is not usually a dressy type of material but in this instance it was cut and finished so neatly that it looks like the perfect cross between dressy and casual. This would actually work really well in a different color too.


You are spot on…
These small details are so important and (for me anyway) often overlooked.
A thinner more tapered strap completely makes sense. The one pictured has a clunky, inelegant look in terms of shape. Also, the watch takes an 18mm strap and the one in the photo is 20mm adding to the bulky look.
Edited:
 
Waltesefalcon
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What I'm about to say flies in the face of my last post. I always put personal preference first. This is what I consider to be my dressiest watch, and is what I wear with a tuxedo. It's a 1929 Hamilton Piping Rock on a black sharkskin strap. The strap has a matte finish to it, is padded, and is stitched. However, the padding is not thick and the stitching is fine and unobtrusive. I personally think it looks great, and for me that is what matters the most. If we are going by the letter of the pretentious, snobby, and old fashioned style guide this watch should probably be on a very thin black shell cordovan strap with no stitching.
20240217_110648.jpg 20240217_110652.jpg
 
tmw57
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Waltesefalcon Waltesefalcon
What I'm about to say flies in the face of my last post. I always put personal preference first. This is what I consider to be my dressiest watch, and is what I wear with a tuxedo. It's a 1929 Hamilton Piping Rock on a black sharkskin strap. The strap has a matte finish to it, is padded, and is stitched. However, the padding is not thick and the stitching is fine and unobtrusive. I personally think it looks great, and for me that is what matters the most. If we are going by the letter of the pretentious, snobby, and old fashioned style guide this watch should probably be on a very thin black shell cordovan strap with no stitching.
20240217_110648.jpg 20240217_110652.jpg
 
tmw57
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Completely agree with personal preference.
That watch looks great on that strap. Period…
 
tmw57
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I've really been looking at color and texture more than shape. And the comments in this thread have been enormously helpful in helping me sort this out. Smooth, sleek and elegant seem to be what I'm after here. I did a little buffing of the 20mm strap to see if I could make it look a bit less coarse. Not there yet, but a bit better. Using a neutral cream formulated for shell cordovan..

So I think I'll be looking for a smooth shell strap with a nice sheen to it. It will have a more tapered, sleeker looking body and will be entirely stitchless.

These pics are what a little cream and buff did to the 20mm test strap. I'd like to see a bit more sheen and may play with it a bit more later...

IMG_4484.jpg IMG_4485.jpg IMG_4486.jpg IMG_4488.jpg
 
Syrte
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One important thing to consider is the thickness of the leather.
Your keepers on the pictures look like they are not lined, and quite thick at around 2mm.
By contrast, more refined straps have two thin layers, with a lining underneath the strap and finished edges.
Also @YYTIN’s’pigskin strap is super thin, only 1.6mm including the lining, as I understand from @torrestraps’ Instagram page.
Btw, I’m just another happy customer, and remember the time he was a watch enthusiast trying his hand at strap making.
 
IMG_2808.png IMG_2810.png IMG_2811.jpeg IMG_2812.png IMG_2813.png
Dsloan
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Just a general question for those who buy leather straps: does it seem like prices are way up? It looks to me like many of the lower tier / value shops have raised prices from $50 to around $80-90 for just a basic strap.

At this rate, I thinking of raiding my wife's leather cutting tools (the benefits of being married to a textile artist) and trying to train up to make some myself.

Or maybe it's just back to bracelets and nato's for me.
 
Syrte
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Agree that certain sellers like B & R bands in the US are increasing their prices, but I think there’s still plenty of good value sellers out there. I wonder if the price increases are due to general increases in costs, or if it’s just some sellers with a reputation deciding to take advantage of it.
 
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