A pretentious, snobby, old fashioned guide to choosing a strap

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Dear Esteemed Forum Peoples,

Your new fangled, "creative", strap pairings are worse than fake butter on popcorn. Enough of this tomfoolery! Allow me to set you straight.

Dress Watches

The only acceptable straps for dress watches are crocodile and alligator. Ok, maybe lizard if it's a smaller watch. That's it. They must be black if you're wearing a tuxedo, or dark brown if not. This new trend of putting pebbled calf leather on dress watches to "dress them down" is an insult to dress watches and an insult to calves. The whole point is to be dressy, that's why it's called a "dress watch". Ditch the "I have no self-confidence" greys and tans and show that you love reptiles by having one killed and skinned for your watch. It's the natural way.

Dive Watches

If your dive watch didn't come with a bracelet. You have one choice: black rubber (silicone is just fancy science rubber, so I'm lumping them together). If you put leather on a dive watch, may the ghost of Jacques Costeau put laughing gas in your air tank. If you want to advertise to the whole world that your dive watch will never go near the ocean, then go ahead and do leather…. actually… don't… pretend you're not a boring accountant who never sees the sun and get a proper rubber strap. Black only!

Chronographs

This is where your leather belongs. If it's a racing inspired chronograph (this includes Speedmasters) you want a rally strap, usually with small holes to vent your gross sweaty wrists. Match the strap to the watch. If the dial is black, the strap should be black, and the stitching should be black too. Don't get all sports bro and put show-boatin' red stitching on your black strap. The strap serves as a neutral background from which to highlight the watch, not distract us from it.

For pilot's chronographs you have a bit more leeway. Brown or tan works if there's not too much black on the dial. Fake carbon fiber, colored rubber backing, colored stitching and other such nonsense screams "I can't afford a Lamborghini, but I would buy one if I could" and you don't want that.

Other

Field watches go on nylon two-piece straps, because they don't soak up your B.O. when you're out in the field. Military watches go on RAF-style single pass straps, or a black or green NATO. If you put a bracelet on a military watch you're asking to get shot by a sniper. Anything else is just a variation on a dress watch and therefore goes on crocodile.

Nevers

Never put stingray, ostrich, suede, velcro or or any strap with more than one color on any watch. Doing this screams, "I hate my watch and am trying to distract you from it with an ugly strap". There are a few watches that look alright with blue or green alligator leather, but they're rare and easy to get wrong, so it's best not to risk it. Bright colors like red, yellow and orange are never alright. Light tans and grays are always boring and sole-less.

There is exactly one scenario in which it's okay to wear a rough cut leather strap with two fat stitches at the top. If you are out on a cattle drive and your strap gets caught on a mesquite bush and rips and you need to fashion a new one with some leftover raw hide and a thorn for a needle, then go ahead. Otherwise, don't even think about it! Those things are the Invictas of straps.

This is the rule: don't choose a strap that pulls attention away from the watch. If you're doing it right, the strap should serve as a neutral background for the watch and not be noticed at all.

Ok, I know you all are burning with questions, so post your pics of your strap pairings, and I'll leave my unfiltered feedback to let you know if you're doing it right.
 
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You had me mostly nodding along until you said no ostrich, which I disagree with :D. So I definitely agree that this guide is as advertised: snobby, pretentious, and old fashioned.

Today's pairing IMG_20221230_120941150.jpg

A strap for a watch should be like a frame and mat for a picture. An accent that highlights the watch, not hide it. But you don't need neutral colors and textures to accomplish that goal.
 
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You had me mostly nodding along until you said no ostrich, which I disagree with :D. So I definitely agree that this guide is as advertised: snobby, pretentious, and old fashioned.

Today's pairing IMG_20221230_120941150.jpg

Grade: D-
The color is okay. It's when you have a relatively minimalist white dial watch that you can get away from traditional black and brown straps, and use blue, but those ridges are completely overwhelming. They overshadow the watch.
 
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Grade: A
I know I said black only on dive watches, but that's a skin diver, which affords a bit more creativity since it's not a "serious" tool watch. A Tropic-style strap is completely correct for a skin diver, and you've matched the hand color perfectly. Well done.
 
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Strongly disagree, regarding dress watches and crocodile or alligator straps. Leave those reptiles alone! See period catalog images below for reference. All images taken from this wonderful Instagram account, @pharos_vintage_watches: https://www.instagram.com/pharos_vintage_watches/

upload_2022-12-30_12-39-38.png
upload_2022-12-30_12-40-21.png
upload_2022-12-30_12-41-39.png
upload_2022-12-30_12-42-51.png upload_2022-12-30_12-43-25.png
upload_2022-12-30_12-43-53.png
upload_2022-12-30_12-44-43.png
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This style of strap is a true abomination. It is not appropriate on any watch, ever!

upload_2022-12-30_12-52-49.png
https://www.chrono24.com/longines/longines-vintage-375mm-oversize-calatrava-ultra-rare--id26290796.htm#gref

Grade: D
This is Patek and Omega caving to their marketing departments against their own better judgement. It's emblematic of a common error perpetrated even by good watch manufacturers: giving the customers what they want, instead of what's in good taste :)
You're absolutely right in your last point though. Those rough cut two stitch straps are to watch straps what stained wife beaters are to shirts, hence I've upgraded you to a D.
Edited:
 
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I don't know where to begin…

IMG_3771.JPG IMG_9570.JPG IMG_7710.JPG

Grade: D
That Oris strap should be black. And that Speedmaster strap? It looks like a grade school sewing project. Stitches should be small and unnoticeable!
 
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Entertaining read, but I don't fully agree. So, what kinda grade do you give this one? Bulova Milship.jpg
 
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I must take issue with the "black with tuxedo, dark brown if not" for dress watches.

The band should match or compliment your shoes. End of story.
 
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You're not my mum, I don't have to listen to you::bleh::;

Alcantara:

IMG_20221114_085413.jpg

Houndstooth cashmere:

IMG_20221005_165022.jpg

Ostrich:

IMG_20220522_170850_HDR.jpg

Beaver tail:

IMG_20221010_100917.jpg

Velcro:

IMG_20220407_174935_MP.jpg
 
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Other

Field watches go on nylon two-piece straps, because they don't soak up your B.O. when you're out in the field. Military watches go on RAF-style single pass straps, or a black or green NATO. If you put a bracelet on a military watch you're asking to get shot by a sniper. Anything else is just a variation on a dress watch and therefore goes on crocodile.
Actually, this sort of drives me up the wall in a humorous sense.

USGI watches get a single-pass strap, not a G10/NATO.

Commonwealth can have G1/NATO.

If you think this fine American military watch goes on a G10/NATO, you're on drugs!

IMG_1253.JPG
 
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The only acceptable straps for dress watches are crocodile and alligator.

And to clarify ... a dress watch refers to a slim two-hand watch, with a precious metal case, no complications, and no numerals on the dial.
 
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And to clarify ... a dress watch refers to a slim two-hand watch, with a precious metal case, no complications, and no numerals on the dial.
Thank goodness I have never been invited to an occasion where these "rules" apply. Last kinda dressy event I attended (no tux, but my jacket and trousers were from the same cloth and tailor) I wore my beaten-up Heuer on an even more beaten-up riveted Oyster bracelet that I had worn every day, a little less beaten-up, when we all first worked together over 40 years before. Every other watch I saw there was a £20 Casio or £toomuch Apple.
 
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Thank goodness I have never been invited to an occasion where these "rules" apply. Last kinda dressy event I attended (no tux, but my jacket and trousers were from the same cloth and tailor) I wore my beaten-up Heuer on an even more beaten-up riveted Oyster bracelet that I had worn every day, a little less beaten-up, when we all first worked together over 40 years before. Every other watch I saw there was a £20 Casio or £toomuch Apple.

This event was apparently not truly pretentious or snobby. :D