60's Seamaster Advice

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Hi all,

Looking to grab my first Omega (also first watch ever) and stumbled upon this offering:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SWISS-VINT...sh=item46ad5ef515:g:xyoAAOSwYoFerDQv#viTabs_0

I've popped in the movement number into the Omega Vintage Database and was able to find similar reference numbers, but not identical. Is this a effective way of verifying the watch, and if so, is this one a fake?

In addition, how does the watch look for that price point? The seller lists this as being an original dial, and it looks good to me, but I'm not certain. Also the case and lugs seem to be quite polished.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much.
 
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If you are dipping your toes into the vintage market, you are wise to check here first- glad you asked before you bought.
Read up on the sticky’s in the vintage forum, there are good threads on how to spot fakes and over polishing.
Even though you are a new member with a post count lower than 200, you can still PM any seller in the classified’s and start a conversation about a watch there that you may find attractive. The benefits of buying from the classified’s here is that they are group verified- as in bad redial will be called out quickly and a fake won’t even make it up for sale.
The learning curve on vintage watches is steep and can be expensive but if you know going in about what to look for and any hidden costs (parts or servicing required), you are a far more educated consumer and can make better choices.
Welcome to the group- dude.
 
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For a few hundred more I think you can find a much better piece. And it’ll be worth it. A few listed right now here and on other forums, good luck with your search!
 
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Hi all,

Looking to grab my first Omega (also first watch ever) and stumbled upon this offering:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SWISS-VINT...sh=item46ad5ef515:g:xyoAAOSwYoFerDQv#viTabs_0

I've popped in the movement number into the Omega Vintage Database and was able to find similar reference numbers, but not identical. Is this a effective way of verifying the watch, and if so, is this one a fake?

In addition, how does the watch look for that price point? The seller lists this as being an original dial, and it looks good to me, but I'm not certain. Also the case and lugs seem to be quite polished.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much.

I think you could do better for the price, considering the overpolished case, several watches that are much better than that (IMHO) have sold for under $500 in the private sales forum here recently. It takes patience, no need to rush. The right one will come.
 
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Hi All,

Thanks everyone for your input and warm welcome.

I've done some browsing on the private sales subforum, and have already found some decent looking offers, however don't want to completely count ebay out. But yes, no need to rush, the dude abides.
 
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Hi All,

Thanks everyone for your input and warm welcome.

I've done some browsing on the private sales subforum, and have already found some decent looking offers, however don't want to completely count ebay out. But yes, no need to rush, the dude abides.

Ride on, eBay is tricky, but some bargains can be had if you know your stuff. I still have my training wheels on there and have picked up a few watches in the low dollar range. I got a few good deals, and some not so good deals. But low dollar is the key for me right now.
 
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I really think EBay has a much lesser % of decent/correct watches than 4 or 5 years ago, way less than 10 years ago and way, way less than 15 years ago. I used to buy between 5 and 10 watches a year there, sometimes 2 or 3 would be in the post at the same time- wonderful years!

Nowadays I average about 1 watch a year from Ebay. Of course my knowledge and tastes have developed over the years but the amount of real garbage there has never been higher and I wouldn't advise anyone to buy their first vintage on Ebay anymore unless they know exactly what it is they are looking for and have done substantial research before they start.
 
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eBay is the world’s flea market- lots of tables of shampoo and other strange sundry- overpriced new mass produced garbage designed solely to steal your money, the antique dealer with mediocre crap at Sotheby’s prices, and the occasional guy who found a box at a yard sale and is selling everything for $1....that’s the guy we are ALL after. At least every other day there is a post here if someone who got a nice piece on eBay at a decent price, sometimes a steal. These are guys who have been collecting for years and can spot a perfect case, original dial and low mileage movement shot through a blurry iPhone pic and they grab it within the first 15 seconds it’s listed. But 80% of the “what did I get” posts we see here are newcomers who thought they scored a deal and bought an over priced POS not realizing it was spotted and dismissed by half the members on any watch forum well before they saw it.
The goal is to hone your skills to be able to spot that gem, know the market value, know how to negotiate the seller down (if it can be negotiated), and have a network in place of people who can service it and supply parts if needed.
We all get there eventually.
 
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Ditto the above, but it’s worth saying that as a first-post watch, this one’s actually pretty good. Aside from the fact that the case has been polished (which will bother some vintage collectors more than others), it’s a good piece: authentic, not a frankenwatch, doesn’t have the regulator pushed all the way to A or R and isn’t being listed for $1,300! You could buy this watch, imo, and come off better than a lot of first-timers, myself included. If the polished case doesn’t bother you, I don’t think it’s a bad choice.

it’s a good watch. And thorough.
 
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I’d want to get a little more clarification from the seller: the listing says it was “tested,” but was it serviced? What are his/her standards for keeping good time?—within seconds a day or minutes? Depending on the answers to these questions, you might want to factor in the cost of a service, which could be 200-500 bucks.
 
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Appreciate the input, man. I'm assuming that the fact that the regulator hasn't been pushed to the A or R indicates that it has been serviced properly, correct?

Those are definitely great questions to ask, I'll update when I get some answers.

Thanks.
 
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Appreciate the input, man. I'm assuming that the fact that the regulator hasn't been pushed to the A or R indicates that it has been serviced properly, correct?

Those are definitely great questions to ask, I'll update when I get some answers.

Thanks.

A centered regulator is not a strong indication of anything. You can center easily the regulator on a watch that doesn't keep time or even run. Having the regulator pushed all the way to one side is an indication of a need for a service (either it has been awhile and regulated heavily to keep decent time, or a recent "service" was poorly done.)
 
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Always assume a watch will need a service and account for it in the purchase price unless the seller can show documentation of a recent service. Think in terms of a $600 watch will cost you $800-1k all in.
And particularly on eBay- if they say “serviced”, ask if they can provide a watchmakers invoice. If they say “we tested and regulated it”, or “we have a guy...”, run.
 
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What he said. The centered regulator is a better sign than one that’s not centered, but it is not, all by itself, a sure sign of anything. All I meant to suggest was that the watch was a better first post than other ones that show up sometimes with their regulators limited out—a definite bad sign.
 
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Always assume a watch will need a service and account for it in the purchase price unless the seller can show documentation of a recent service. Think in terms of a $600 watch will cost you $800-1k all in.
And particularly on eBay- if they say “serviced”, ask if they can provide a watchmakers invoice. If they say “we tested and regulated it”, or “we have a guy...”, run.

I wouldn't necessarily run from a watch where the seller claims it has been serviced/regulated/his guy looked at it/tested and regulated/etc but I certainly wouldn't pay extra for their vague claim either.

I think the most important thing is to factor the cost of a service in when starting the search for a vintage watch in the first place- so If a newbie is looking to spend €1000 on his first vintage I'd always recommend spend €7-800 on the watch and hold the rest back for a service.
 
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I wouldn't necessarily run from a watch where the seller claims it has been serviced/regulated/his guy looked at it/tested and regulated/etc but I certainly wouldn't pay extra for their vague claim either.

I think the most important thing is to factor the cost of a service in when starting the search for a vintage watch in the first place- so If a newbie is looking to spend €1000 on his first vintage I'd always recommend spend €7-800 on the watch and hold the rest back for a service.
Agree, “run”is an over-statement. I have just had experience with “the guy”- bought a Seamaster that was “serviced”, when I got it it wasn’t keeping time and was stopping. I messaged the seller who became hostile immediately and after a back and forth (and he calmed down) he admitted that his “watchmaker” was actually a guy at the local flea market who fixes watches. He offered me a steep discount which was about the value of the movement so I accepted. Took it to my watchmaker and he said it hadn’t been serviced at all and in fact it smelled like lighter fluid had been squirted into it when he opened the case back. I would rather buy an unknown service history but running watch, than one that had been hacked on.