3861 movement broken? *Update: Read First Post*

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I guess the question I have is how long until new models start showing up at ADs with the better bushing?

I would add .. and how would one know that the watch that they're about to buy has had this bushing issue fixed? Does one have to take the AD or OB's word for it?
 
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I would add .. and how would one know that the watch that they're about to buy has had this bushing issue fixed? Does one have to take the AD or OB's word for it?
AD or OB wouldn't have a clue about this, they sell what Omega sends them, they don't quiz them about these sorts of things.
 
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And that's a problem!
I don't think so, what is an OB going to do, refuse to accept or sell the watch if they can't be assured it has the update? They need to move product, they aren't running interference to prevent a possible issue down the road, that's what a five year warranty is for.
 
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I don't think so, .....

...

But I do.
I don't think you would go for a 3861 at the time being knowing that there's an issue, would you?

As I had said in my previous posts, the watches should have been pulled back and seen to and not sold come what may.
So sorry but that's the way I see it.
 
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Proactive: Ask questions, acquire informed opinions and specific data (Archer), decide to buy, wait, or move on altogether. This will result in presumptive decisions absent a decree by Omega [in this case]. That won’t happen.

Reactive: Determine whether there is a real, identifiable problem and deal with the manufacturer if necessary.

It’s really up to how informed the consumer may or may not be, unfortunately. Archer has been the sole source of product data that I’ve read regarding observed issues and prescribed remedies with the movement - and even that effort has been delivered through this forum and another - not from Omega.

z
 
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It’s really up to how informed the consumer may or may not be, unfortunately. Archer has been the sole source of product data that I’ve read regarding observed issues and prescribed remedies with the movement - and even that effort has been delivered through this forum and another - not from Omega.

z

As I've been saying from the start of this, that's how this industry works. It's not exclusive to Omega either.
 
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By all means, if you want to send it in, they will change the bushings. Just saying that what you observed in the test and attributed to this problem, really isn't the conclusion that I would come to.
I have been hesitating whether it is cal.186x or cal.3861, because I heard that the 186x has an annoying shutter problem. When I was inclined to choose 3861, a new problem appeared. I would like to know from your experience, whether omega will produce a speedy using the new bush in the next one to two years? And they won’t announce it to the public, they just replace it silently.
 
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Y yyau
I have been hesitating whether it is cal.186x or cal.3861, because I heard that the 186x has an annoying shutter problem. When I was inclined to choose 3861, a new problem appeared. I would like to know from your experience, whether omega will produce a speedy using the new bush in the next one to two years? And they won’t announce it to the public, they just replace it silently.

Not sure what problem you heard about with the 1861, but it is a reliable movement.

I'm quite sure that any 3861's being produced now are being fitted with the new bushing - it would be very surprising if they were not.
 
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The good old days when one member there are trying to convince everyone it was an optical illusion. In any case, this can be adjusted, and the 3861 uses the exact same design...
Thank you for your reply, I will consider waiting until 2022 to buy 3861
 
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The good old days when one member there are trying to convince everyone it was an optical illusion. In any case, this can be adjusted, and the 3861 uses the exact same design...
You can refuse to answer, I just want to understand this question out of curiosity.
As shown in the figure, which one causing the problem? gap2 or gap1? In my understanding, bush should protect the centre wheel from direct contact with the main plate, so the main plate and bush do not move relative to each other.
 
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Proactive: Ask questions, acquire informed opinions and specific data (Archer), decide to buy, wait, or move on altogether. This will result in presumptive decisions absent a decree by Omega [in this case]. That won’t happen.

Reactive: Determine whether there is a real, identifiable problem and deal with the manufacturer if necessary.

It’s really up to how informed the consumer may or may not be, unfortunately
. Archer has been the sole source of product data that I’ve read regarding observed issues and prescribed remedies with the movement - and even that effort has been delivered through this forum and another - not from Omega.

z

FWIW, this is how I advise my patients, and how many others across the professional spectrum would advise their clients/ customers. And the stakes are often higher there.

With something like a luxury watch you’re buying the company as much as the individual piece, I suppose, and certainly Omega’s customer service in my experience has been exemplary. It’s always annoying and disappointing to feel like a beta tester for an expensive item — as I found out with my Tudor — but so long as it gets out right at no cost to you, the consumer, all should be well.

I share your view that forums and expert posters like @Archer are absolute godsends in such cases as important product knowledge bases are created through their efforts.
 
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You can refuse to answer, I just want to understand this question out of curiosity.
As shown in the figure, which one causing the problem? gap2 or gap1? In my understanding, bush should protect the centre wheel from direct contact with the main plate, so the main plate and bush do not move relative to each other.

There is no "gap 1" as the bushing is press fitted into the main plate and another into the barrel bridge. The bushing is of coruse fixed in palce and doesn't rotate.

Also, the way you have shown contact is not quite right. In addition to the contact with the circumference of the center wheel shaft, there is also a face (thrust) contact between the center wheel and the bushing.
 
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I posted on WUS about my Apollo 11 50th Anniversary running almost 50 hours with no problems. I'm speculating that perhaps my watch had just a dab more oil on the bushing in question, but what I don't know is if it's a forgone conclusion and a certainty that my watch at some point WILL develop the problem. I have chosen to not wind this watch everyday and am just displaying it in its box. Is this a bad idea? Should I be running it every day to allow the problem to manifest itself eventually so it can be taken care of within the 5-year warranty?
 
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I posted on WUS about my Apollo 11 50th Anniversary running almost 50 hours with no problems. I'm speculating that perhaps my watch had just a dab more oil on the bushing in question, but what I don't know is if it's a forgone conclusion and a certainty that my watch at some point WILL develop the problem. I have chosen to not wind this watch everyday and am just displaying it in its box. Is this a bad idea? Should I be running it every day to allow the problem to manifest itself eventually so it can be taken care of within the 5-year warranty?
I wouldn't worry about a problem which might or might not happen, just wear and enjoy the watch and wind every day. If it happens within 5 years Omega will take care of it, if the 5 years pass without an issue at the time of service it will be "upgraded" if needed.
 
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Archer,

Based on the watches below, you need to diversify into a vintage Omega Ploprof 600.

I think this would go well with your other Omegas 😀

10-22-20203963.jpg

No, and considering they are under warranty with Omega for several years to come, that's not surprising. I occasionally have people who would rather send a watch under warranty to me and pay for the service than send it to the brand, but it's not common.



The most modern Omega I own is this one:



1971 Speedmaster Pro, and the second most modern is this, a Seamaster 120 made in 1968:

 
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But I do.
I don't think you would go for a 3861 at the time being knowing that there's an issue, would you?

As I had said in my previous posts, the watches should have been pulled back and seen to and not sold come what may.
So sorry but that's the way I see it.

Full product recalls never really happen unless something is a safety issue (which this obviously is not).
I think the best way to approach it would be to offer a (new production, bushing fitted) replacement watch to anyone who suffers the fault within X period of time, provided the watch is still in as-new condition, rather than making them wait potentially months for a repair.
 
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T tooch
Full product recalls never really happen unless something is a safety issue (which this obviously is not).
I think the best way to approach it would be to offer a (new production, bushing fitted) replacement watch to anyone who suffers the fault within X period of time, provided the watch is still in as-new condition, rather than making them wait potentially months for a repair.

New for old is reasonably expected within the 30 day DOA period in the UK but even that's not guaranteed to happen. After months, a repair is more than reasonable.

I think people really need a take a good look at their expectations. When your main/favourite watch goes in for warranty or routine service, just wear another one. Not that big of a deal really.