30th October 2024 - Universal Genève is Back !

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Which customers, which target group, which market, which countries do they probably want to serve? 😕
At this rate, maybe a hedge fund?
 
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returns and exchanges: Getting married is better!
Edited:
 
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Compax at 39.5mm... 😒
Honestly, my view is it is not too bad as someone who is sporting their 60s Compax today. Tastes have changed and given the Daytona is 40mm (vintage was 37mm) it seems right to me.

Of all the relaunches the Compax seems the one to nail it the most with a Microrotor movement. That was a nice surprise.
 
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I really like the no date Polerouter. Great design and amazing dimensions; 37 mm, 9.35 mm thick with a sapphire caseback! This is what I wanted from the Constellation! The micro rotor movement is also really nice. It even has a seconds hand...

Unfortunately, 14,000 CHF is too much - a common trend in the industry it seems like. The date versions are bigger (39mm) and more expensive too, sadly.
 
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There is nothing here that I like well enough to part with 5 figures. As I said before S.T.B. …. If it pulls on the vintage market, thats good for my wallet if the sales bug hits me.
 
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Honestly, as is often the case with vintage reissues, the proportions feel off. The Polerouter case lacks the refinement and subtlety of the original - everything appears slightly heavier. The rehaut is too thick, and the same goes for the indexes and hands, which disrupts the overall balance.

The date version, in particular, feels oversized. Both versions would have made far more sense at around 36–37mm.

The Compax, at nearly 40mm, is also too large for my taste, although its proportions are more coherent than those of the Polerouter.

The capsule collection is actually quite well executed, and some of the jewellery pieces are genuinely appealing.

That said, pricing feels inconsistent and somewhat excessive. It’s difficult to justify a chronograph being priced the same as a three-hand model - especially when both appear to feature in-house movements with a micro-rotor.
 
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Warranty only 2 years, deposit is non-refundable, no returns!
Not to mention that last line, water resistance issues are not covered! Doesn’t sound very fancy of them, unlike these intro prices. The other odd condition was that preorders must be sold to the customer in there Switzerland store.

Lineup is off to an attractive start with the references and configurations they chose so far. Barely nicks the bezel of their original catalog, but the feeling is there.
 
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Not to mention that last line, water resistance issues are not covered! Doesn’t sound very fancy of them, unlike these intro prices. The other odd condition was that preorders must be sold to the customer in there Switzerland store.

Lineup is off to an attractive start with the references and configurations they chose so far. Barely nicks the bezel of their original catalog, but the feeling is there.
Ok, I didn't even notice these things, very customer not-friendly.
 
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I haven't had time to fully digest all the new offerings, but I'm blown away at the quality, the creativity, and the variety. This brand was releasing garbage watches with the previous owners, and now Partners Group has thrown what, 100M at this project, and now it's just released an incredible range of stunning watches. At first glance I think they did a really good job at updating the vintage models.
The prices are astronomically high, which is a bummer and priced me out, but at the same time, I love the brand so much, I also feel there's no reason why UG cannot be asking these prices compared to any other brand. So even if I cannot afford myself, I'm also very proud of the brand and hope it's successful.
I wonder how this will affect vintage prices. I would imagine it would increase demand, which would increase prices, but only time will tell. I wish I had kept all the UG I had instead of selling most of them off over the past 5-10 years.
It would be interesting to really dig into the details of the new models, the new calibers, etc, but I have been too busy, maybe in the coming weeks/months. Exciting times for UG as a brand.
 
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After UG and Omega new prices...is Rolex an affordable brand?...
 
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After UG and Omega new prices...is Rolex an affordable brand?...
Well… these launches have definitely made other brands, like Rolex or JLC, look more attractive on price —which is bananas, as those were already brands many people considered overpriced.

You can pick a Datejust 36 in steel for about half the price of the new steel Polerouter on strap. And the steel Constellation is almost 20% more expensive and 4mm thicker than a Master Control Classic.
 
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And the steel Constellation is almost 20% more expensive and 4mm thicker than a Master Control Classic.

This logic also applies for the gold Constellation Observatory, which has some cheaper budget alternatives like the gold Patek Phillipe Calatrava 6119R.
 
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This logic also applies for the gold Constellation Observatory, which has some cheaper budget alternatives like the gold Patek Phillipe Calatrava 6119R.
I almost snorted out my coffee reading this 😬 ...

"budget alternatives like the gold Patek Phillipe Calatrava 6119R" is really a lovely sentence. Luxury watch pricing has become (even more of) a farce (than before).

On the point of UG: I like their new offerings. The models look good, capturing the vintage watch vibe very well (which is something a lot of companies fail miserably at), and the selection is varied and interesting. The prices, well, they are astronomical... and problematic. I wish them luck, and good fortune acquiring clients who are willing & able to pay such prices. But I don't really see it happening, with a possible economic downturn incoming and bubbles bursting left and right.

But then, what do I know? Pretty much nothing besides being 100% sure that I'm not in their target audience.
 
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It would be interesting to know what Polerouters or chronos sold for in the past, adjusted for inflation.

A quick gander says a Compax could have been purchased for $1,630 in 1947 (originally $110), a Tri-Compax for $2,295 (originally $155), and in the year 1956,a Polerouter could have been purchased for $1,450, originally ($120).

Point being, this is not the same brand. Once you adjust for inflation, or purchasing power, normal people could have afforded these watches, but now, at 10x the price or more, normal people have been priced out. Sad to see.

I want Swiss people to make a decent living, really I do, but someone is wanting to get super rich off of this resurgence. Maybe jealous of the Patek yacht?