1957 Connie - Redial or Not?

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Hands look correct, text looks crisp to me. I do wonder about the “chronometre” as I think the French spelling is less common? I am suspicious that perhaps it looks slightly too good for the age and price.
 
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Jordan, check e.g. the other examples at C24 😉 and train you eyes. Look and check the swiss made. As @JBSMP mentioned: perfect dials are suspicious.

did you check the serial-number?
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Jordan, check e.g. the other examples at C24 😉 and train you eyes. Look and check the swiss made. As @JBSMP mentioned: perfect dials are suspicious.

did you check the serial-number?

the serial is 15345XXX. Other than the year what would this help me ascertain? Thanks for the help!
 
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I would say the cross hairs are too heavy, the bottom one touches the l, font is heavy, the Swiss Made is bunched up, the s in constellation doesn't look right, the case is too polished .
 
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Hands look correct, text looks crisp to me. I do wonder about the “chronometre” as I think the French spelling is less common? I am suspicious that perhaps it looks slightly too good for the age and price.
Ironically that's one thing that's OK. With RE spelling, it's not a question of rarity, it's a question of date. RE is actually correct for this year of Connie, ER was seen later. The rest however is rather more questionable.
 
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Looks likely to be a skilled redial. I would not buy this watch based on photos. You would want to look at this one in the flesh, with a loupe. Then you would be able to tell.
 
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JBSMP, did you try the direct approach by contacting the seller and asking whether they will represent to you that the dial is original and unrefinished? If they will not or they hedge with something like “To the best of our knowledge …” then you have your answer.
 
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May I provide a differing opinion about the font?

In my ‘beginner’ view, the font looks good, but the casing and the price are not appropriate.
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I am not expert on Connies, but agree with the above poster, who is anything but a "beginner". 😁
 
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Guys, don't get me wrong but you need to refrain from making assessment if you're not 100% sure about a watch in question.
 
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Guys, don't get me wrong but you need to refrain from making assessment if you're not 100% sure about a watch in question.

I half agree with your plea for moderation.
OF is a discussion forum and where members give reasons for potential issues I think these are acceptable starting points for discussion.

However, near-pristine dials do exist on 50s Constellations, line thicknesses can vary, the cross hairs on dome-dials do often invade the personal space of the 'l' in Constellation and 'Swiss Made' does look bunched up when in this location on a dome-dial 2852.

For this reason I'm siding with the 'beginner' @qazwsx1 on the question of good dial or redial 👍

However, the case is heavily polished, the mid case is quite badly pitted and there is obvious signs of rotor rub (and no pic of the inner caseback) so the price tag is ambitious to say the least.
 
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I half agree with your plea for moderation.
OF is a discussion forum and where members give reasons for potential issues I think these are acceptable starting points for discussion.

I apologize for not explaining myself well. I referred to the dial, which I think is original, but I'm not confident enough to claim 100% original. That's why I didn't even give my opinion.

On the other hand, some members confidently give their opinion, which to new members sounds like the opinion of an expert, and I can count at least 10 times in short period of time
when they were wrong, i.e. they were not even close to being correct. And I'm talking about basics let alone potential pitfall like this one! 😀

However, the case is heavily polished, the mid case is quite badly pitted and there is obvious signs of rotor rub (and no pic of the inner caseback) so the price tag is ambitious to say the least.

I think we can all agree on this 😀
 
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you know, I've seen this dynamic play out a fair amount with online forums, on any topic/hobby, doesn't really matter. It's that usual adage of the best thing about the internet is anyone can say anything and the worst thing about the internet is anyone can say anything.
Often times there is no obvious way for users, especially new users, to determine the scale of any other users knowledge on the topic, and so all posts have the same weight, regardless of if it's a total noob talking nonsense or one of the worlds premier experts . (You can look at number of posts and number of likes, and that can be helpful, but it doesn't always tell the full story).
I've seen other forums where mgmt feels like this dynamic gets out of control, and one approach I've seen is they give perhaps the 10 top expert users on the forum some kind of special badge or status, and turn them loose on the forum with a big stick. Their job is to come in a shut down noobs spouting nonsense. I get the idea, but I'm not sure it works in practice. The reality is that everyone is a noob at some point, and flounders around being a noob and making noob mistakes (like me). If you stay around long enough you start to get enough experience to be able to contribute back more substantially to the forum.
If you get overly aggressive about shutting down people who don't know what they are talking about, it can have a chilling effect on the vibe of the forum in general. And of course, all the noobs are the potential future of this hobby.
Anyhow most people on this forum are neither noobs or experts, they are just enthusiasts who have a passion for this hobby, and enjoying sharing it with other like minds. If you spend time here you eventually figure out who you want to listen to and who you want to ignore.
If you are a brand new user posting about your grandfathers watch, and you get 5 people telling you it's a redial, and 5 people telling you it's not, that doesn't do you much good, and you will not have a way to figure out the truth. But I guess that scenario is not really the primary function of this forum.
I find this forum to be one of the more balanced of any that I have joined, and I think the creators and moderators are a big part of that success. It takes a real fine line to know to step in and when to step back. I wasn't around here in the beginning, so I actually don't know the full history of who created it, and who maintains it, but I know Ash @dsio is a big part of that, and my apologies to any other key players who I am missing.
 
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Hi guys,

thank you all for your contributions and support. I know that I still have a lot to learn when it comes to spotting a good quality vintage Omega. Being a Rolex fan boy originally I am much more educated on spotting an overly polished oyster case (I find this to be a much more straight forward affair) than any of the complex and curvaceous vintage omegas.

I realise that I should put some time aside like @Vitezi above suggested and read the comprehensive guide that other forum members have created so that I can make wises decisions on my own. I suppose I always let the impulse take over and simpy think “I don’t know enough, just ask everyone on the group”. I’m going to go away and read up on all the useful info other experts on the forum have already created and ensure that I never allow myself to buy a dud simply because I let my impulses get the better of me (never a good idea when buying vintage watches).

I also wanted to thank you all for your wisdom and support. I find this to be a very helpful and encouraging forum with patient and friendly members and only ever find myself coming back to read more posts and learn more. As a 29 y/o I’m looking forward to learning more.

Cheers!