1957 Connie Pie Pan 2852 Cal.505 Gold Cap Black Dial

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Looks OK to me, the color makes me pause if the fonts are indeed yellowish in person.

Last way for proof is to take a peek at the back side of the dial.
 
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Looks OK to me, the color makes me pause if the fonts are indeed yellowish in person.

Last way for proof is to take a peek at the back side of the dial.

Thank you for your pictures! Glad to see the same curve with the minute markers on your piece. I shall be positive and reassure myself that the dial on my watch is original. The last thing I want to do is scratch that dial. 😁
 
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Curve of minute markers are #16 on my list for things to look for on originality. My list ends at #15.
 
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Thank you for your pictures! Glad to see the same curve with the minute markers on your piece. I shall be positive and reassure myself that the dial on my watch is original. The last thing I want to do is scratch that dial. 😁



Well, on service, that dial's gotta come off, that is when you get your WM to take some pix.
 
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I could be wrong, but I think a strong indicator of originality is when there is a slight space between the cross hair and the "l" in Constellation.
 
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I could be wrong, but I think a strong indicator of originality is when there is a slight space between the cross hair and the "l" in Constellation.



Bingo, #4
 
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Curve of minute markers are #16 on my list for things to look for on originality. My list ends at #15.

I see, I guess I still have a lot to learn. Could you share the list of things you usually look out for?
 
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I could be wrong, but I think a strong indicator of originality is when there is a slight space between the cross hair and the "l" in Constellation.

Thank you! I learnt something new again. 😀
 
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Looks OK to me, the color makes me pause if the fonts are indeed yellowish in person.

Last way for proof is to take a peek at the back side of the dial.

Dibs - please and thank you.
 
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I could be wrong, but I think a strong indicator of originality is when there is a slight space between the cross hair and the "l" in Constellation.

Just to add to your nugget of wisdom.

You’re quite right, but depending on the reference and dial type it can be a little more nuanced than there just being a space to the ‘L’.

The crosshair on a pie pan dial should be slightly further toward the ‘E’ than on a dome dial.
On 2852s the crosshair on a dome dial is often pretty much hard up against the ‘L’ (but still maintaining a small gap.)

For later references the crosshair tends to be (very) slightly further to the left on each dial type but still maintaining the different positions between pie pan and dome dial.

Note - The crosshair should never touch the ‘E’ or the ‘L’ on either dial type.

Edit:
The perceived closeness of the crosshair on the 2852s may be due to the thickness of printing on both crosshair and text.
 
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The crosshair should never touch the ‘E’ or the ‘L’ on either dial type.
There is a dial that the cross hair touches the whole "l" to be original. (on different reference)

Now let's go check. 😁
 
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There is a dial that the cross hair touches the whole "l" to be original. (on different reference)

Now let's go check. 😁

What?
There are other Omega references, to Constellations? 😲
😁
 
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can we see the whole dial?

I presume the 'wavy' cross hair is an artefact of the photograph?
 
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Thanks for sharing @Hensley, it’s the same font as my black dial😀.
At first, I thought there is some problem.


Interesting to see that even on genuine dials, some of the words/letters look slightly misaligned. It’s being very picky but that it’s pretty visible in the super close-ups there. For instance how the letters CHR look lower than the rest of the word.

It might be the angle though. And I guess impossible to notice without a mega zoom.
 
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Hi, I need some advice.
I intend to put my black pie pan connie up for sale after I have accumulated enough posts.

Any thoughts on the market value for a piece like this?
 
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Have you seen the links below? our new forum upgrade provides a group of threads to study.
 
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When asking for thoughts on value, I feel it’s good form to start with where you think the value lies along with the reasoning and go from there.
Just asking for a valuation seems like you’re asking others to do the work for you.
 
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Ask potential buyers for a valuation...hmm.

Do some research and come up with a range and stick it in there somewhere. An exact specific price is not realistic as these collectibles go up and down all the time depending on a few factors.

Fishing for offers though can be quite annoying, when a seller won't give an asking price and insists on an offer I just refuse to engage as IMHE whatever offer may be given is never quite enough...