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Davidt
·I’d say pushers is roughly zero. Crown a couple/few hundred.
145.022-69ST All original?
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pdxleaf
··So on and so on and scoobie doobie dooI looked at that listing a few days ago. Really like the watch, and the seller seems pretty transparent. My issue is I want a 1969 production. The likely production of this serial number is well into 1970. As such the search will continue.
Any thoughts on what a replacement crown or pushers does to value?
I'm suspecting little to nothing but would be interested in opinions.
Crowns and pushers are way down list, below overall condition, case, dial, movement etc. But they do matter a little. Not at all to some people.
Crowns can be found. Many people like newer Crowns that have good seals to keep out moisture. Pushers are harder to find and maybe people care more about pushers than the crown. But a great condition bezel, dial, case with the bracelet at a low price will override a crown and pushers question.
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josiahg52
·Twelve plus years ago, I also wanted a 1969 watch. In the end, I realized I liked the look and pre-Moon case back the most, the step dial and DON bezel were definitely nice, and that opened a few other years. I ended up with a good one, one I wanted at a good price that presents well. In retrospect, after service and many years, I care less about the crown and pushers. I want a sealed watch I can wear day to day. Some say that's not possible with a vintage and that's probably mostly true. It might be why I started buying parts for an SM300 not too soon after.
If you want a 1969 watch, be prepared to probably pay more for the rarity and then pay additionally to retain the "original" parts and properly reseal them for daily wear, or be satisfied with a watch you might wear around the house or on "special" occasions, or spend a lot more on a recently serviced and sealed watch. It can be done, but will take time and money. You won't find a deal in the traditional sense. It's all a giant scale of originality, price, completeness, condition, desirability, and usually one or more things have to give or to you'll never find anything "worth" buying.
Good luck!
If you want a 1969 watch, be prepared to probably pay more for the rarity and then pay additionally to retain the "original" parts and properly reseal them for daily wear, or be satisfied with a watch you might wear around the house or on "special" occasions, or spend a lot more on a recently serviced and sealed watch. It can be done, but will take time and money. You won't find a deal in the traditional sense. It's all a giant scale of originality, price, completeness, condition, desirability, and usually one or more things have to give or to you'll never find anything "worth" buying.
Good luck!
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rgb01@rocketmail
·Twelve plus years ago, I also wanted a 1969 watch. In the end, I realized I liked the look and pre-Moon case back the most, the step dial and DON bezel were definitely nice, and that opened a few other years. I ended up with a good one, one I wanted at a good price that presents well. In retrospect, after service and many years, I care less about the crown and pushers. I want a sealed watch I can wear day to day. Some say that's not possible with a vintage and that's probably mostly true. It might be why I started buying parts for an SM300 not too soon after.
If you want a 1969 watch, be prepared to probably pay more for the rarity and then pay additionally to retain the "original" parts and properly reseal them for daily wear, or be satisfied with a watch you might wear around the house or on "special" occasions, or spend a lot more on a recently serviced and sealed watch. It can be done, but will take time and money. You won't find a deal in the traditional sense. It's all a giant scale of originality, price, completeness, condition, desirability, and usually one or more things have to give or to you'll never find anything "worth" buying.
Good luck!
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Davidt
·If the condition is too good to be true, where would you expect it to be priced?
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Dan S
·The H/M hands don't appear to be original. Does the seller have the original part aside from the case-back that you mentioned?
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J!m
·I thought 68 was the last year of the applied logo and last year of the 321 movement.
The step dial on the late 68 with 861 had a painted logo, unless this is the uber-rare something?
EDIT and why is the inner iron cover polished?
The step dial on the late 68 with 861 had a painted logo, unless this is the uber-rare something?
EDIT and why is the inner iron cover polished?
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Davidt
·I thought 68 was the last year of the applied logo and last year of the 321 movement.
The step dial on the late 68 with 861 had a painted logo, unless this is the uber-rare something?
EDIT and why is the inner iron cover polished?
I’m not sure I follow. Everything on that watch, the serial, dial and caseback are consistent with a 68 transitional.
The logo on 145.022-68’s is applied, not painted.
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rgb01@rocketmail
·Based on the I Love My Speedmaster site I've been using to check serial numbers I was thinking an excellent condition all original Transitional should be in the $10-11K range (with a Very Good under $8K). I didn't pick up on the H/M hand discrepancy. Will check with the seller to see if he still has them (for whatever it's worth he's been quite responsive and provided additional details when I asked promptly).
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J!m
·I’m not sure I follow. Everything on that watch, the serial, dial and caseback are consistent with a 68 transitional.
The logo on 145.022-68’s is applied, not painted.
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Davidt
·My understanding is the 145.012-68 is applied; 145.022-68 was the same step dial but painted Omega logo rather than applied. I could be wrong, obviously, but that logo Change coincided with the movement change as far as I was aware.
That’s not correct.
Both the 145.012-68 and 145.022-68 have applied omega logo.
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J!m
·Well, I just learned something then.
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hansaboy
·For those who need to get a feeling about the 68´s!!
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hansaboy
·And this one?
https://speedmaster101.com/145-022_update/
Read, read, and read again!!
Thinking about myself....😉
https://speedmaster101.com/145-022_update/
Read, read, and read again!!
Thinking about myself....😉
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rgb01@rocketmail
·Dan,
Waiting to hear back on the H/M hands. Are you picking up they aren't original based on the difference in the color of the lume on the dial vs the hands? The differing shapes/styles of the hands across the years is still something I'm still working to understand (it appears to be like many other aspects of a Speedmaster - a deep rabbit hole to explore).
Waiting to hear back on the H/M hands. Are you picking up they aren't original based on the difference in the color of the lume on the dial vs the hands? The differing shapes/styles of the hands across the years is still something I'm still working to understand (it appears to be like many other aspects of a Speedmaster - a deep rabbit hole to explore).
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hansaboy
·Here is one that has the sharpest case available...(I think)!
https://speedmastersales.com/26557715-2/
Look at all the parts, details etc.
And compare with the ones you are looking at?
No strings attached to the seller!
https://speedmastersales.com/26557715-2/
Look at all the parts, details etc.
And compare with the ones you are looking at?
No strings attached to the seller!
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rgb01@rocketmail
·Original hands, crown, and pushers included in the sale.
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josiahg52
·I found what appears to be an almost too good to be true clean example on Chrono24 (it doesn't seem to have a scratch on it). Seller has retrofitted a clear case back but still has the original. It has none of the non-matching issues the last watch I looked at had, and it's been serviced (cleaned, calibrated, pushers and crown replaced with new seals with accompanying paperwork). My concern is it's priced on the excellent end of the spectrum and from a private overseas seller (as such no ability for me to use the Chrono24 verification service). Thoughts?
This is a 1970, but it's so nice:
https://speedmastersales.com/29602338-2/
Good guy, too.
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Spacefruit
··Prolific Speedmaster HoarderMy understanding is the 145.012-68 is applied; 145.022-68 was the same step dial but painted Omega logo rather than applied. I could be wrong, obviously, but that logo Change coincided with the movement change as far as I was aware.
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masteroftime
·I'm leery of the polished movement cover. Who does that and why?
Some came like that. I never questioned it but I have a few with polished movement covers.
