Corndawg389
·I don’t know what that means (yet) but I appreciate the suggestions and will look into it.
I don’t know what that means (yet) but I appreciate the suggestions and will look into it.
Buying a bracelet to get links is not a bad idea @Corndawg389, but don't buy that one. It is mislabeled or cobbled together with different parts. If you look at the image taken of the edge you will notice the profile of the links is not right for yours. It's elliptical not with flat edges like yours. I think that bracelet is an 1171 with an 1175 clasp.
On a separate note if you buy an 1175 for a few links, I might be interested in buying what is left. I have small wrists (6.5") and don't need a full bracelet by a long shot
I would just get leather strap for now and take your time reconstructing a bracelet. Most of us swap between leather strap and bracelet anyway. Here’s my black thick racing strap from WatchGecko and thinner brown from Torre. but many ideas avail.
Buying a bracelet to get links is not a bad idea @Corndawg389, but don't buy that one. It is mislabeled or cobbled together with different parts. If you look at the image taken of the edge you will notice the profile of the links is not right for yours. It's elliptical not with flat edges like yours. I think that bracelet is an 1171 with an 1175 clasp.
And why do you suggest replacing the 47 with the 640?
If you're happy with the fit of the 47 end-links, that's fine.
They came in two general link styles, which have been mentioned a few times on the forum.
As I said, this was my father’s watch until his recent demise. He was an amateur drag racer who became a television cameraman in the 1950s.. Before there was anything like a GoPro, there was my dad. He held onto an enormous video camera while hanging out the open door of a helicopter as it flew through the city; laid on the front of a race boat as it sped down the river during a regatta; and was part of a documentary crew who visited the most polluted city in the world in Siberia in the 1980s. Every bit of it was with this watch on his wrist. However, my favorite memories of this watch were when he did dumb things with it, like drunkenly swimming in Gulf Of Mexico saltwater; or the time he had a wrench on the positive terminal of an alternator (of a 1934 Chrysler coupe) and his watch bracelet touched the frame of the car at the same time it touched the wrench. I witnessed that band melt the skin of his wrist as he frantically batted at the clasp to remove it. It was hilarious then and even more so now. Each time, he had it serviced and back on his wrist for the next adventure (or misadventure). He was a funny, quiet, blue collar, hotrod builder who happened into a life of adventure, about which he rarely spoke. I never thought too deeply about his watch back then; it was a tool for his trade and hobbies. Now, I realize what an integral part of our lives it really was. And, it’s about the only material thing he left behind.
I live twenty minutes from Chronotek and have used them quite a few times. Talk to Michael. He is a wealth of knowledge. They do excellent work and stand behind their work.
What a story! And what a watch to remember it by. Wear it in good health.
And why do you suggest replacing the 47 with the 640?
IMHO the best and payable option for a 145.022-68 would be a ref. 1116 band with ref. 575 end links.
Otherwise the combination 1039 (with the right date on the clasp)/516 end links would be ok too, but expensive.
Cheers
To my knowledge, there are three correct bracelets for the 1968 transitional: the 1039/516, the 1116/575 and the Mexican "Holzer" bracelet for Speedmasters sold in Latin America. I'm a big fan of the 1175/640, but I don't think that it's correct for the 1968 145.022 reference.
@Corndawg389's dad installed an 1175 at some point, and I am pretty sure he wants to keep it a his dad wore it. So in this case an 1175 is the right bracelet for this watch.
Ah, point taken, thanks for reminding me. Whether it's correct or not, the 1175 is a great bracelet. I have one on my '69 Straight Writing. Still a flat link, but much more robust than the 1039.