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mcgyver
·Santa got me a laser this year for Xmas => cutting out perfect pieces with smooth corners and the correct dimensions from start is now so much easier! 😀
1039 flat link stretch bracelet springs
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detsen
·Santa got me a laser this year for Xmas => cutting out perfect pieces with smooth corners and the correct dimensions from start is now so much easier! 😀
Nice impact in producing the right springs for replacement. Would there be bigger packages available with cheaper prices?
Cheers,
Christian
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MTROIS
·I can not believe I had not found this thread sooner!!! This forum is really AMAZING!!
Roger, is it still best to contact Mikael at Urdelar, or can we source them directly from you?
Roger, is it still best to contact Mikael at Urdelar, or can we source them directly from you?
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MTROIS
·Can someone please confirm whether these springs for the 1039 would also be suitable for earlier flat link bracelets like the 7912 and/or the 7077? Thank you in advance.
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DesignerV
·This is great. I've been repairing mine by inserting small rectangular pieces of high-durometer rubber. Still flexible, and I don't have to do any metalwork to install them.
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pascs
·Nice 😎
I have quite a requirement for several replacement springs
I have quite a requirement for several replacement springs
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new_heuer
·Can someone please confirm whether these springs for the 1039 would also be suitable for earlier flat link bracelets like the 7912 and/or the 7077? Thank you in advance.
They would be suitable for the 7912 as they share the same removable single stretch links. They won't be suitable for the 7077 as that uses double stretch links with a different spring construction. I don't know if they would fit a 7077/7912 transitional bracelet though. Would be best to post a photo of your bracelet here
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mac_omega
·+1
they don´t fit on regular 7077
they don´t fit on regular 7077
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Archer
··Omega Qualified WatchmakerJust for reference, these are what the 7077 springs looks like:
And these are still available from Omega as well.
Cheers, Al
And these are still available from Omega as well.
Cheers, Al
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MTROIS
·You guys are the best!!! Thanks for the tips.
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dennisthemenace
·This is great. I've been repairing mine by inserting small rectangular pieces of high-durometer rubber. Still flexible, and I don't have to do any metalwork to install them.
I would be happy to help any member out with their 1039.
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TimtimeIntl
·I'm amazed Omega still supplies the 7077 springs!!! I made my last two by winding spring wire around thin flat steel stock and trimming to length. Kinda fun as I had an odd mess when I slid them off the plate. It took a bit of tweaking to make them lie flat. But they work.
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140dave
·Bumping a helpful thread.
I just spent a couple of hours moving springs around. I had 2 broken springs causing gaps in my 1039 so pulled the links, removed springs, replaced the missing ones and now good as new.…or good as new minus one link that is now completely springless and removed from the bracelet.
Thanks again, OF!
I just spent a couple of hours moving springs around. I had 2 broken springs causing gaps in my 1039 so pulled the links, removed springs, replaced the missing ones and now good as new.…or good as new minus one link that is now completely springless and removed from the bracelet.
Thanks again, OF!
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dfndr67
·Hello all,
I’m sorry for reviving this thread, however I find myself in need of some springs for my 1039 bracelet. Does anyone know if they are still available??? & the cost of them???
Feel free to send a link to order them.
Kind regards
Pete.
I’m sorry for reviving this thread, however I find myself in need of some springs for my 1039 bracelet. Does anyone know if they are still available??? & the cost of them???
Feel free to send a link to order them.
Kind regards
Pete.
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- 135
impaw
·Hello all,
I’m sorry for reviving this thread, however I find myself in need of some springs for my 1039 bracelet. Does anyone know if they are still available??? & the cost of them???
Feel free to send a link to order them.
Kind regards
Pete.
https://urvintage.se/omega-1039
I bought some springs of him this summer.
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dfndr67
·
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Ron_W
·Thanks @ChrisN for a helpful thread as well as @mcgyver for his springs and his thread here ;
And here is a photo report of my own 1039 repair with a warning.
The regular spring loaded links are a pretty easy fix, if you have basic DIY skills or build model planes etc.
Fold the link as described here on page 1 and take out the broken spring if its still there. Then, with small pliers or strong tweezers you can place one side of the new spring in at an angle and bend it in gently to squeeze in the other end. The spring can loose shape a little but i will keep its flex in my experience.
So No need to open the side of the case !! as i think ( and happend to another member here who tried ) the side can break off quite easy.
But for the endlink conecting to the clasp you have to bend it open, there is no other way as Chris already mentioned.
What helps is to warm up the link, boiling water or some heating plate is enough, and be gently with the tap, knifer or hammer.
I also believe there never was a spring in this link from factory, as the size and shape must be very different from the others. But if someone has an original spring loaded one i`d be happy to be corrected. The replacement spring just does not fit in the shorter middle tube were it must be placed to function. But it sure does make it a better and more solid fit once in and protects the carrier bar inside with its flex.
Open it just enough
No spring
Replacement spring normal size and shape, it will not fit so cut off both feet and file it down
Like so
Still not a good fit
So took off some more
And push it in, takes some force, and we have a really good fit. Knock the side back into original shape and you are good to go.
The Warning ;
Neither of this works with the spring link that attaches to the first non-flex link, because it only holds 1 spring inside and so it wont bend "backwards" if you try to bend it to lift the sliding part. The link can break off like with mine. Looking at the 55 yrs dirt inside the rounded ends it probably was worn/weak already and gave way.
So this wont work on that middle link to lift the sliding plate up;
Or you get this , 2 halfs
of a link;
So you need a thin blade/screwdriver to slide under the small plate to lift it over the fixed outside part of the link before you push from the other side. Not an easy fix.
But a good experience and a lesson learned, all in the name of science 😉, and the bracelet is still long enough for me so no harm.
This 1039/516 is the most comfortable bracelet i have worn sofar, 1125-1171-1450-1498 and it only weighs 35 gram and the flat fit is excellent. It is not a strong as solid links maybe but this 1039 construction is pretty firm - good enough for normal wear/bikeride/lawnmower imo - and has an "automatic micro adjust" because of those srpings !
If you find one with some damaged springs for a good price, you know what to do !
And here is a photo report of my own 1039 repair with a warning.
The regular spring loaded links are a pretty easy fix, if you have basic DIY skills or build model planes etc.
Fold the link as described here on page 1 and take out the broken spring if its still there. Then, with small pliers or strong tweezers you can place one side of the new spring in at an angle and bend it in gently to squeeze in the other end. The spring can loose shape a little but i will keep its flex in my experience.
So No need to open the side of the case !! as i think ( and happend to another member here who tried ) the side can break off quite easy.
But for the endlink conecting to the clasp you have to bend it open, there is no other way as Chris already mentioned.
What helps is to warm up the link, boiling water or some heating plate is enough, and be gently with the tap, knifer or hammer.
I also believe there never was a spring in this link from factory, as the size and shape must be very different from the others. But if someone has an original spring loaded one i`d be happy to be corrected. The replacement spring just does not fit in the shorter middle tube were it must be placed to function. But it sure does make it a better and more solid fit once in and protects the carrier bar inside with its flex.
Open it just enough
Still not a good fit
And push it in, takes some force, and we have a really good fit. Knock the side back into original shape and you are good to go.
The Warning ;
Neither of this works with the spring link that attaches to the first non-flex link, because it only holds 1 spring inside and so it wont bend "backwards" if you try to bend it to lift the sliding part. The link can break off like with mine. Looking at the 55 yrs dirt inside the rounded ends it probably was worn/weak already and gave way.
So this wont work on that middle link to lift the sliding plate up;
Or you get this , 2 halfs
of a link;
So you need a thin blade/screwdriver to slide under the small plate to lift it over the fixed outside part of the link before you push from the other side. Not an easy fix.
But a good experience and a lesson learned, all in the name of science 😉, and the bracelet is still long enough for me so no harm.
This 1039/516 is the most comfortable bracelet i have worn sofar, 1125-1171-1450-1498 and it only weighs 35 gram and the flat fit is excellent. It is not a strong as solid links maybe but this 1039 construction is pretty firm - good enough for normal wear/bikeride/lawnmower imo - and has an "automatic micro adjust" because of those srpings !
If you find one with some damaged springs for a good price, you know what to do !
Edited:
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M'Bob
·Thanks @ChrisN for a helpful thread as well as @mcgyver for his springs and his thread here ;
And here is a photo report of my own 1039 repair with a warning.
The regular spring loaded links are a pretty easy fix, if you have basic DIY skills or build model planes etc.
Fold the link as described here on page 1 and take out the broken spring if its still there. Then, with small pliers or strong tweezers you can place one side of the new spring in at an angle and bend it in gently to squeeze in the other end. The spring can loose shape a little but i will keep its flex in my experience.
So No need to open the side of the case !! as i think ( and happend to another member here who tried ) the side can break off quite easy.
But for the endlink conecting to the clasp you have to bend it open, there is no other way as Chris already mentioned.
What helps is to warm up the link, boiling water or some heating plate is enough, and be gently with the tap, knifer or hammer.
I also believe there never was a spring in this link from factory, as the size and shape must be very different from the others. But if someone has an original spring loaded one i`d be happy to be corrected. The replacement spring just does not fit in the shorter middle tube were it must be placed to function. But it sure does make it a better and more solid fit once in and protects the carrier bar inside with its flex.
Open it just enough
No spring
Replacement spring normal size and shape, it will not fit so cut off both feet and file it down
Like so
Still not a good fit
So took off some more
And push it in, takes some force, and we have a really good fit. Knock the side back into original shape and you are good to go.
The Warning ;
Neither of this works with the spring link that attaches to the first non-flex link, because it only holds 1 spring inside and so it wont bend "backwards" if you try to bend it to lift the sliding part. The link can break off like with mine. Looking at the 55 yrs dirt inside the rounded ends it probably was worn/weak already and gave way.
So this wont work on that middle link to lift the sliding plate up;
Or you get this , 2 halfs
of a link;
So you need a thin blade/screwdriver to slide under the small plate to lift it over the fixed outside part of the link before you push from the other side. Not an easy fix.
But a good experience and a lesson learned, all in the name of science 😉, and the bracelet is still long enough for me so no harm.
This 1039/516 is the most comfortable bracelet i have worn sofar, 1125-1171-1450-1498 and it only weighs 35 gram and the flat fit is excellent. It is not a strong as solid links maybe but this 1039 construction is pretty firm - good enough for normal wear/bikeride/lawnmower imo - and has an "automatic micro adjust" because of those srpings !
If you find one with some damaged springs for a good price, you know what to do !
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