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Why Taper Matters: Correcting The Omega Seamaster Bracelet

  1. Spikedlee Feb 3, 2021

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    Hey guys. So following up on a previous thread I made about how much I hated the stock Seamaster 300M bracelet due to the lack of taper and the bulky clasp, I found myself really enjoying some aftermarket Milanese bracelets on the watch:

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    I have two versions of these Milanese bands. One is a 1.9mm thick version, and one is a 2.9mm thick version which is the same thickness as the Bond NTTD Milanese band.

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    Here is the difference in thickness between the two:

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    Both bands have their merits. The thinner Milanese is sleek, lighter weight, and very comfortable. The thicker Milanese looks tough, more in alignment to the thickness of the watch case, and durable. The issue with the thicker band is it has a lot of heft to it. It actually weighs much more than my Rolex Daytona.

    But take weight aside, the bigger issue with both of these bands was the lack of taper. At 20mm. they both are straight end pieces from lug to clasp. There is a lack of comfort because of that width that I still felt needed to be corrected. And ultimately I wanted something a bit lighter in between the two.

    The ideal Milanese band would start at 20mm at the lugs and taper down to about 16mm which is roughly the taper of the Omega Speedmaster Ed White bracelet. It would also be a bit thicker than the 1.9mm, but not as thick as the 2.9mm. So lets say 2.5mm. And the clasp would need to be thin. For those of you who own the 007 NTTD, you know what I am talking about. The bracelet does have a taper from 20mm to 18mm at the clasp, but the clasp is massive; preventing the bracelet from properly wrapping around thin wrists and just not being able to sit properly under a dress shirt.

    Introducing my solution. A 20mm tapered to 16mm Milanese band, at 2.5mm thick with a thinner clasp:

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    It's lighter, more comfortable, allows for perfect flexibility of the wrist, and completes a full wrap around the wrist with no overhang, clasp bulk, or excess thickness. My only complaint is that this bracelet lacks the quick release buttons of the prior models and also requires a tool to adjust sizing versus doing it on the fly like the prior two.

    I will be working on developing a solution for that problem but wanted to share my insights to all of you.
     
    Edited Feb 4, 2021
  2. LadyLuz Feb 3, 2021

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    Thanks for the write up! I have actually always wondered why taper mattered, but especially for a metal bracelet, as in your case, it makes sense now. Also the mesh bracelet looks great. Are you going to mention when you got it?
     
  3. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Feb 4, 2021

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    I'm indifferent to taper personally. Really is not important to me if a bracelet tapers or not - I'm fine with either.
     
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  4. eugeneandresson 'I used a hammer, a chisel, and my fingers' Feb 4, 2021

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    Note to readers with arm hair : those ‘cheap’ Milanese are real pullers. I’m by no means extremely hairy, but my one experience with such a bracelet (especially those with ‘links’) was enough to put me off for life.
     
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  5. vintage hab Feb 4, 2021

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    Did you somehow make that band, or find an aftermarket one?

    Great photos BTW.
     
  6. STANDY schizophrenic pizza orderer and watch collector Feb 4, 2021

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    The first photo in this thread, to me you are wearing your watch (which is a big watch for your wrists) too far down your wrist.

    I think in my opinion it’s a watch too big for your wrist more than a bracelet problem but you don’t want to not like the watch. ( as said my opinion )

    Even the fact that there is so much left over when you put the Milanese on it is always going to be thick. ( second last photo looks like it nearly wraps around your wrist twice )
    A nice cut/ordered to size Milanese is a better than a stock one size fits all.
     
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  7. Blackdog Feb 4, 2021

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    Looks like the one from Strapcode...
     
  8. Spikedlee Feb 4, 2021

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    Thanks! Actually just got it in today and posted not too long after
    Thanks! It's a Militat band from Amazon :)
     
  9. rincondeltiempo Feb 4, 2021

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    I fully agree with @Spikedlee, a nice taper on a metal bracelet makes the overall fit much better. This is specially true for us with small wrists. Regarding what @STANDY said, I can agree with you that the watch is a bit on the bigger side. However, I think a bigger watch could be pulled off on that tapered milanese as Spiked said.

    After all, it comes down to personal taste!
     
  10. Spikedlee Feb 4, 2021

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    After all, it comes down to personal taste![/QUOTE]

    It definitely sucks that I was not blessed with thicker wrists. Mine are 6.75". When you see the watch on me it doesn't look as big because of how my body is proportioned though. A few references:

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