Which is the correct battery?

[RobMc]

I'm trying to test an older Hattori Y513A movement, but I'm unsure of what battery it uses. Anyone know?

 

[Pastorbottle]

May I suggest you measure both the diameter and depth of the battery compartment and go from there.

 

[RobMc]

Pastorbottle

May I suggest you measure both the diameter and depth of the battery compartment and go from there.

It's a 301.

 

[Pastorbottle]

Sorted……now I guess the next step is finding one

 

[RobMc]

Pastorbottle

Sorted……now I guess the next step is finding one

Already ran to the pharmacy and bought 1 lol! Non running. Second hand just twitches. I have this bad habit of wanting to fix things that may not even be worth the cost of fixing, and this seems to be going down that path. It's got an engraving on the back, was a gift for Christmas, 1979. I'm sentimental, I want it to run. Already hunting for a replacement movement.

 

[Pastorbottle]

Then in that case, I guess the next step is finding a replacement movement 😁

 

[Canuck]

That watch is close to 45 years old. It is long obsolete. If you luck out and find an equivalent watch to cannibalize, you end up with a one more watch that does run, but also another watch that doesn’t run (the donor watch)! And if you find a donor watch, you could well find it doesn’t run, either. Now you’ll have two watches that won’t run! Shouldn’t you quit while you’re ahead?

 

[Pastorbottle]

C’mon we’re watch enthusiasts……..rational decisions don’t come into it! 😁

 

[RobMc]

Canuck

That watch is close to 45 years old. It is long obsolete. If you luck out and find an equivalent watch to cannibalize, you end up with a one more watch that does run, but also another watch that doesn’t run (the donor watch)! And if you find a donor watch, you could well find it doesn’t run, either. Now you’ll have two watches that won’t run! Shouldn’t you quit while you’re ahead?

Sir, kindly take your well thought out logic elsewhere!! Kidding aside though, you are correct. But I'll still go ahead and jump into the fixing it. Watch cost me $5.00, the battery cost me 6. So I haven't wasted much yet. The good part is I also bought this at the same flea market, also for $5.00 (all watches were $5.00. This came on a cheap leather strap, but amazingly I had a strap that matched it perfectly. So I think I'm ahead overall.

 

[Pastorbottle]

Nice little Seiko 5 for $5 can’t go wrong…….until it does, but hopefully you’ll get your moneys worth before it does, and it won’t take long to get your moneys worth at the princely sum of $5

 

[gatorcpa]

I found a similar watch on eBay.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/115606783880

There is a picture of the movement showing the battery to be an LR48. The equivalent is not a 301. It is a 393.

https://www.batteriesdirect.com/product/details/button-cell-batteries/toshiba/lr48

Might want to try that first.
gatorcpa

 

[JimInOz]

Battery is actually an LR43 in the eBay watch. That's a 1.5 volt micro alkaline. There are a number of silver oxide 1.55 volt batteries that would also work. SR43W for example.

 

[Canuck]

gatorcpa

I found a similar watch on eBay.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/115606783880

There is a picture of the movement showing the battery to be an LR48. The equivalent is not a 301. It is a 393.

https://www.batteriesdirect.com/product/details/button-cell-batteries/toshiba/lr48

Might want to try that first.
gatorcpa

Both the subject watch and the eBay watch have the Y513A movement. If the eBay one works, why bother messing around trying to make the subject watch work? Just sayin’.

 

[gatorcpa]

Here is technical manual for the movement.

https://myretrowatches.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Y513A.pdf

LR43/301 is in fact correct and I am mistaken.

Buy the Pulsar from eBay and change the back for sentimental purposes.
gatorcpa

 

[Pvt-Public]

I realize this has a different movement than the OP’s but you may consider just getting a replacement movement. I bought one for this watch from a supplier, sorry don’t remember which one, for less than $20 USD.

 

[sheepdoll]

I am in over my head playing with electronics. Started to fix my timegrapher. Also reading up on seeing if I can use the 'scope to check out some of my quartz movements.

Problem is I got out a 30 year old textbook on Neural Nets. The preface looks like it could have been written an hour ago. As in "We do not exactly understand what goes on inside the neural network."

I got the book because I was interested in image processing. (recovering music data from piano rolls.) The book has a good chapter on FFTs.

Here it is nearly 30 years later, and I am still playing about with this stuff.

There is a surprising amount of statistical analysis in Watchmaking theory.

 

[RobMc]

Pvt-Public

I realize this has a different movement than the OP’s but you may consider just getting a replacement movement. I bought one for this watch from a supplier, sorry don’t remember which one, for less than $20 USD.

I hadn't even considered that . I grabbed another watch that's very similar on what for $20, days it runs.
The added benefit of this is that this parts watch will have a crystal tension ring, mine should have 1 but it's missing. So I need that as well.

In regards to buying a whole he's watch and just swapping the case backs.....that's cheating .

 

[gatorcpa]

R RobMc

In regards to buying a whole he's watch and just swapping the case backs.....that's cheating .

I disagree. You want functionality or originality? No one says you have to throw away the parts that you don't use. The watch I linked has the same case, movement, dial and crown.

Just trying to make life easier.
gatorcpa

 

[Pip]

R RobMc

Non running. Second hand just twitches.

In my experience, if the second hand is twitching it's usually just dirt somewhere. Often the step rotor attracts all the little bits of swarf which eventually stops it rotating. I love working on 7Axx movements from Seiko, made back in the day when quartz watches were made properly rather than to the lowest cost possible. The 7A28 was the worlds first quartz analogue chronograph and debuted in late 1983, the 7A38 was the same but with the addition of day and date and was released a little later. These were followed by 7A48 which either had moonphase or tide indicators depending on the model. I have half a dozen or so of them and have worked on quite a few more. Quartz done properly.

 

[RobMc]

I'm hopeless. So as I said, I bought a donor watch with the same movement intending to swap them out. When the donor arrived today, I found it to charming to waste parting out. I like it's 36mm case and 20mm lugs. I really like the bezel as well. The watch I started the thread with is 34/18. So now I own 2 early 80's, quartz Pulsars. I have a weak spot for vintage watches that probably were never the "coolest" pieces. I'm gonna put the original watch that started this thread aside. I'll revisit it in the future. I'm not gonna continue buying and keeping donors .

Here's the "donor" before and after a cleanup. I need a better strap for it. I also need help.