Just looking for some advice as to some tried and tested methods.
I have ordered a set of small fine art brushes? Would this work?

 

There was a thread on this topic recently that may be of interest to you.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/sm300-master-co-axial-bracelet-re-size-thread-lock-question.55489/

 

A toothpick and apply the smallest amount possible on the link's female threads, not to the screw. If you put too much, it actually makes it worse than without it.

 

Interesting. That's the opposite of @Archer's advice from that other thread.

 

it's the same advice, except he suggests unscrewing then screwing back in to spread the Loctite among the threads, BUT AINT NOBODY GOT NO TIME FO DAT

The problem with that (in my opinion from personal experience), is that it helps move Loctite closer towards the pin and if it gets there and hardens, it causes the link to not pivot on its own. Feels like something is jammed in there.

 

If that is happening, you are applying too much...

 

Our drag racing team used Loctite blue wherever a thread locker was needed. Just one thin stripe down the threads on a bolt. Not much was needed and disassembly was still fine. For those bracelet screws I would imagine a little dab will do ya.
In the Philippines many watch techs use Elmer's glue and that seemed to work well and disassembly was fine as well.

 

I worked as a Machinist for 45 years we used Loctite Green for threaded fasteners that could be removed. Clean surfaces then apply a very small amount to screw threads.

 

These values of breakaway torque tell me nothing..
Blue or green I guess, blue 243 has fixture time 5 - 10 min., green 290 needs 20 - 60 min.
Which one do you guys use?

Besides threadlocking the bracelets screws, I would like to use it also for securing the centre pivots in knives.

 

I have had success with Loctite 609, this is a medium strength bond.
For the cyclists amongst us there is the problem of bottom bracket creak in pressfit bottom brackets. I tried everything, new bearings selected by micrometer , different greases, nothing worked for long, usually a 100Ks and the noise back !
Because this is a high load situation I cleaned thoroughly and had a 24 hour plus cure time.
Loctite 609 and success, going on 9 months now and no creak.

 

I prefer using the 243.
Keeps the screws in place and easy to take off with a screwdriver.

As for knives, imho, you have to use a stronger one than the 243.

 

For things like bracelet screws purple (low strength) works fine for me. There is little to no torque put on these screws (especially in an Omega bracelet), you just want them held in place.

 

I have been screwing and unscrewing screws on watch bracelets of various luxury brand watches for decades and never used this loctite thing. Never had any problems with tight screws or with screws falling or nearing to fall of a bracelet.

 

Yes but I doubt very much if the screw heads remain neat without any heating first.
Screws on modern Omega bracelets can be tough to unscrew when Loctite is used during assembly. I presume they use the stronger type during production.
So heating slightly the area helps a great deal when unscrewing and keeping the small screws looking as new.

 

Sorry for the late revival of this thread, but I’ve seen so much conflicting information online - do I even NEED loctite at all?

I’m still learning about watches, but I’ve just purchased my first speedy. I’ve ignorantly resized the bracelet by myself, and hardly needed any torque when unscrewing the screws. I didn’t use any loctite at all when I screwed them in again.

Should I undo those screws, and apply some 222 loctite?

 

Just keep an eye on them, you can run your fingers over the side links and feel if any screw is coming out with use. I wouldn't undo them to apply some thread fastener at this point.

 

I resized my Speedy bracelet over a year ago and didn’t use loctite. I checked the screws once and they were fine. I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

Locktite 222 purple.

The blue, orange and red are for larger fasteners. Green is wicking for application after assembly.

They all have their place but only 222 on a watch. I use it for pusher and crown tube threads, also stems in crowns. No problems getting it apart when needed.

Use a soldering iron to heat factory locktite before attempting to remove those screws. Make sure your driver is properly dressed and full width of the screw too.

 

Now this is advice I could have used. Those factory screws were hard to get out. I definitely scratched the side of a link because of it.

 

Thanks. This was my thinking as well. I wasn’t sure whether it was such a big mistake that I’d need to take them out, apply loctite and then re-insert them