What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special?

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OmegaSpeedmasterProMoonwatchvsEdWhite-12.jpg
Out of all the watches in my collection, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 is one of the pieces I appreciate most. Without making this article a love letter to the watch, let me explain several things that make the Speedmaster Calibre 321 incredibly special. For the price that you’ll need to pay for this watch, these […]

Visit What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special? to read the full article.
 
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Thanks again,

for that additional report about that nice 321 Moonwatch, makes the wait easier... 😎

BR
Hans
 
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I think the Trilogy RailM and SeaM were in fact the first Omegas to get laser engraved sapphire in 2017 so slightly before the Seamaster 1948, as that was a 2018 launched piece. Ironically the trilogy Speedmaster didn’t have this feature because of course it stayed true to the Hesalite crystal of the original. I’m all for a nicely shaped sapphire crystal like that on the Trilogies or 321 NEW but for gods sake don’t chip it. The price they charge for replacing them is truly frightening.
 
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Not sure why the article says the watch can only be serviced in Bienne, Switzerland.
 
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Not sure why the article says the watch can only be serviced in Bienne, Switzerland.
Because Omega is restricting the parts for the new 321.
 
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Thanks for the 321 report Robert-Jan, I didn't know that the 321 was going through the double assembly process, that obviously adds more time to the total movement assembly time which translates to more costs.

However, I don't fully agree with your statement, "......if you’re after this watch, I suggest putting yourself on the list at a boutique rather than spending the asking prices on Chrono24 or similar platforms." This gets down to a calculation of time, value and passion. The chances of an individual walking into an Omega boutique anywhere in the world, getting their name on the list, and actually getting a steel 321 in a reasonable amount of time is very, very slim at this point. It would take YEARS of waiting as want-to-be-owners have discovered. Right now the premium asked for an unworn, or near mint, Ed White 321 is about 50%. In my view that isn't too bad for what the watch is. Consider the two Speedy Tuesday LEs, both of these trade at about a 100% premium, and we know what the Snoopy's are doing, the latest Silver Snoopy is trading at a 200% premium, and that's not a limited edition watch. List prices are continuing to creep upwards, and by the time someone's name bubbles to the top of the list in a few years what will the actual price be? In my view the Ed White 321's premium at this point isn't all that bad considering the overall design, history and execution compared to, say, a steel Daytona which is still attracting more than a 100% premium and is not as interesting as an Ed White 321. And no one knows how long they will make this movement, I don't see it as a perpetual offering in Omega's catalogue. I paid a reasonable premium and have the watch on my wrist, it is very hard putting a monetary value on time, it's different for everyone. Do your calculation and make your choice.
 
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Not sure why the article says the watch can only be serviced in Bienne, Switzerland.
The watch carries a five year warranty, if it needs attention during that period it will go back to Bienne. Omega's choice. After five years an owner can have it serviced somewhere else, but good luck getting any needed parts for it even if the repairer has an Omega parts account. Omega's choice again. It's not that this movement can't physically be serviced outside of Bienne, it is that Omega is not going to make it easy to do so if parts are required.
Edited:
 
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The forums very own Archer has done a great article on the movement differences and included rough cost analysis against both movements which leave plenty of questions for potential and current customers. This adds to the mix but ultimately aren’t Omega trying to both cash in and lift the brand value at the same time? Interesting times as the middle consumer world might just be a little smaller in the next 12-18 months depending how economical pressure moves and this is where Omega has its heartland. As always thanks for your continued contributions Robert we are lucky to call you one of us.
 
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"A lesser-known fact, however, is that each caliber 321 is assembled twice. The watchmaker will put it together, adjust/regulate it, disassemble it, clean it, and put it together again. The logic behind this is that watchmakers can examine if all components are working together as they should."

This is a puzzling few sentences. The "logic" provided isn't terribly logical in my view.

Are all of the movements being disassembled cleaned, and reassembled? Even the movements where the parts are "working together as they should" right from the start?

Are the parts for these made so poorly that they have to be hand fitted? If that's the case, why can replacement 321 parts I buy drop right in place and not need to be examined to see if they are "working together as they should"?

Certainly a spare parts can be bad, but if you run across one, you get another out and move on. Unless you aren't paying close attention as you assemble the movement, you will catch anything that isn't right pretty much immediately.

"Omega also decided that all of the Speedmaster Calibre 321 watches can be only serviced in the workshop in Bienne. According to the brand, it has to do with the required skill set of the watchmaker. I can also imagine that Omega wants to control the 321 movements and parts and keep that as much in Bienne as possible."

Yeah, the latter is the reason, more than the former. Watchmakers all over the world disassemble clean, repair reassemble these movements every day.

This appears to just be advertising on behalf of Omega...
 
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Not sure why the article says the watch can only be serviced in Bienne, Switzerland.

Because Omega said so ;-). Omega explained that they only want these watches to be serviced in Biel for the required skillset, but as mentioned in the article, it is probably also about the distribution of parts they want to control.
 
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Thanks for the 321 report Robert-Jan, I didn't know that the 321 was going through the double assembly process, that obviously adds more time to the total movement assembly time which translates to more costs.

However, I don't fully agree with your statement, "......if you’re after this watch, I suggest putting yourself on the list at a boutique rather than spending the asking prices on Chrono24 or similar platforms." This gets down to a calculation of time, value and passion. The chances of an individual walking into an Omega boutique anywhere in the world, getting their name on the list, and actually getting a steel 321 in a reasonable amount of time is very, very slim at this point. It would take YEARS of waiting as want-to-be-owners have discovered. Right now the premium asked for an unworn, or near mint, Ed White 321 is about 50%. In my view that isn't too bad for what the watch is. Consider the two Speedy Tuesday LEs, both of these trade at about a 100% premium, and we know what the Snoopy's are doing, the latest Silver Snoopy is trading at a 200% premium, and that's not a limited edition watch. List prices are continuing to creep upwards, and by the time someone's name bubbles to the top of the list in a few years what will the actual price be? In my view the Ed White 321's premium at this point isn't all that bad considering the overall design, history and execution compared to, say, a steel Daytona which is still attracting more than a 100% premium and is not as interesting as an Ed White 321. And no one knows how long they will make this movement, I don't see it as a perpetual offering in Omega's catalogue. I paid a reasonable premium and have the watch on my wrist, it is very hard putting a monetary value on time, it's different for everyone. Do your calculation and make your choice.

True, you can take the increases into account. I am not sure I would do that gamble myself though (I know I didn't for other watches).
 
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This appears to just be advertising on behalf of Omega...

Sorry to read you think it is because it is not. I just asked Omega questions about the Speedmaster Calibre 321, and noted down their answers. Do you also feel the two-fold assembly at Lange doesn't make any sense? Or just in this case? When Omega explained it, it sounded quite interesting tbh. When you disassemble the parts, I can imagine you can see (based on signs of wear?) if all components work flawlessly together. Make adjustments, and assemble it again. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
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The forums very own Archer has done a great article on the movement differences and included rough cost analysis against both movements which leave plenty of questions for potential and current customers. This adds to the mix but ultimately aren’t Omega trying to both cash in and lift the brand value at the same time? Interesting times as the middle consumer world might just be a little smaller in the next 12-18 months depending how economical pressure moves and this is where Omega has its heartland. As always thanks for your continued contributions Robert we are lucky to call you one of us.

Thanks. Look, we're all enthusiasts or collectors, but we also need to realize Omega is a company with shareholders&stakeholders, so they do need to make money as well. So sure, they try to do these things at the same time: cash in and uplift the brand value. And it seems they do it well (although it might not seem this way because not everyone is getting their watches in a timely way).
 
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Sorry to read you think it is because it is not. I just asked Omega questions about the Speedmaster Calibre 321, and noted down their answers. Do you also feel the two-fold assembly at Lange doesn't make any sense? Or just in this case? When Omega explained it, it sounded quite interesting tbh. When you disassemble the parts, I can imagine you can see (based on signs of wear?) if all components work flawlessly together. Make adjustments, and assemble it again. Correct me if I am wrong.

I don't know why ALS claims to require this double assembly, so I can't comment regarding the validity of their reasoning. The watch factories that I have been in where double assembly is required are only for very intricate and complex movements that are highly decorated. After the initial fitting is done, the movement is taken apart and further finishing/decorating steps are taken (often by hand), before the final assembly. This is done to ensure that resources required to hand finish parts are not taken up by parts that might not be suitable as finished parts, or where a further adjustment would possibly damage the hand finishing. The one that jumps to my mind right off is the JLC Gyrotourbillon - assembly done in the farmhouse - I suspect you have likely been there also...



You can see that various aspects of this movement are not yet fully finished.

In a service situation, when I am servicing a watch of any kind, the watch is disassembled, cleaned, and then parts are checked for wear - typically done under the microscope:



When wear is evident, a decision is made on how to proceed - repair or replace. This will be dictated by the degree of wear, plus the availability and price of the part in question. This doesn't require assembling the movement to find out.

As I said, sometimes you will get a part that isn't correct, right out of the package - here's an example of a wheel that has no pinion leaves machined into it:



Beside a replacement that is at it should be:



More common is a bent wheel, so what I do (as do most watchmakers) is that when you are say assembling the wheel train, when you get the bridge on you turn the stem and get the wheel train turning, and watch for wobbly wheels. This is done before lubrication (at least that's how I was taught) and if you see a bent wheel, you remove the bridge and either fix the bend, or in the case of a factory setting, get another one out of the drawer, put it in, and move on.

Now certainly there is the odd time when you get the watch ticking, and find that something is amiss, and it requires you to take the movement apart again, find the problem, clean everything again, and assemble it again. But this is rare - rare because it takes time to do this and time is money. As I often have advised people who are learning, when servicing a chronograph watch I assemble the base movement first - enough parts to make the movement run, but no more. I then do all the timing checks and adjustments, because if I find that there's a problem that requires disassembly (low amplitude, wobbly timing results, etc.), I don't want to have to take all the unrelated chronograph parts off the movement. I only put those on once I know the base movement is fine.

If Omega is saying that this double assembly is done on every movement, it's baffling why that would be needed on a bog standard chronograph movement using massed produced parts. It smells like pure marketing to me, unless some additional details could be added to explain why this is needed.

Cheers, Al
 
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I don't know why ALS claims to require this double assembly, so I can't comment regarding the validity of their reasoning.

Snip snip

If Omega is saying that this double assembly is done on every movement, it's baffling why that would be needed on a bog standard chronograph movement using massed produced parts. It smells like pure marketing to me, unless some additional details could be added to explain why this is needed.

Cheers, Al


Thanks Al, much appreciated! That is a thorough answer and insight. I don’t doubt they do that double assembly, the question remains to be what’s behind it (other than story telling). It is definitely something worth following up with them. I will ask them some follow-up questions based on your input/feedback and get back on this topic.

RJ
 
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The most interesting thread for quite a while. I look forward to any response you receive from Omega with further information Robert. Thanks for your precise articulate responses and pictures Archer.
Won’t stop them taking the brand where they want/try to, but it does give a few of us the opportunity to make an informed decision about if we want to join them on said journey with new watch purchases at point of sale, boutique or Official retailer.
 
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Really nice, but no justification enough for 14800€.
For me, a little of hype intention beneath the surface of the article.
Edited:
 
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Really nice, but no justification enough for 14800€.
For me, a little of hype intention beneath the surface of the article.

Way more justified than that snoopy imo.. speaking of hype

There is a wide market for the 321, Snoopy, Speedy Tuesdays and other limited/numbered editions. They won't appeal to all people, it depends on price, appearance, availability and a thousand other things. It's all good.
 
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Way more justified than that snoopy imo.. speaking of hype

The Snoopy in any flavour brings things to the table that nothing else in the entire market can come close to or ever will.
I don't own a Snoopy and never will, but I can appreciate it for what it is as a stand alone concept on its own merits.
Perhaps even more legitimate than 95% of the other limited editions? Anyway that's just my opinion😉

It could be argued the 321 as it's presented is hype upon hype with maybe a sprinkle of more hype over the top as a garnish👍
To each their own😀