What is the fit between case and caseback for a snap-on type

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I tried to find a good answer but couldn't.

As an example, If I have a watch with a lip on the case that is 30.00mm diameter, what diameter should the caseback be machined to to give a good "snap-on" fit ? And are the contacting surfaces parallel to each other, and also perpendicular (90°) to the plane of the case, or is there an incline present on either of the mating surfaces.

I ask as I need to make a snap back for a watch I bought that has the wrong one.
 
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No one is going to be able to give you exact numbers, but there are different types of snap on case backs...

Some incorporate either an O-ring (nitrile) seal, and others a hard plastic seal, but some are just metal to metal with no seal at all. Some have the case back fitting over the case, and some press inside the case. Case material and case back thickness (how flexible it is) will be a factor in the fit...

All of the designs I can think of immediately have parallel mating surfaces, so nothing is angled
 
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Thanks Archer.

It seems to be fitted with a case back, but obviously the wrong one as it's a stainless steel watch and the caseback is marked up as gold-plated. I could measure this caseback and open up a steel snap-back to the same size, but would like to know really what is correct and original for the case. I'll have a play when I finally get the watch in my hands next weekend.

Also might be nice to have a display back, but not sure if this can be done with snap-backs due to the stiffness and loading when installed and removed.
 
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You didn't clarify, but I assume this is a plain snap on back with no seal then? If so, then a display back isn't going to be possible. Snap on case backs can have them, but the back would be fitted into the case (not over a lip) and would use a plastic compression seal. As I said the specifics of what you have dictate the way forward...
 
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I haven't seen it yet, but it will almost certainly be a case with a lip and a "female" case back. I guess the best option will be to find a donor caseback which is slightly undersize, and machine it out to give the right fit. Would have been nice to have a display back, as at least that gives an excuse of not having the right caseback...
 
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If the back that's on it fits OK, why not just machine off the markings, since you're unlikely to know what the original one looks like anyway?
 
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If the back that's on it fits OK, why not just machine off the markings, since you're unlikely to know what the original one looks like anyway?

I was assuming that the caseback is base-metal rather than stainless, but if it turns out to be stainless then yes I can turn off the text.